Electrical Question #1: Difference between Bulb Holders - Defender Source
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Old August 25th, 2010, 09:36 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Electrical Question #1: Difference between Bulb Holders

I am looking for someone with enough electrical expertise that can tell me the physical and functional difference between the tail light bulb holder (AMR1422) and the "Others" (meaning front and rear signal, reverse light and front side markers) which all use AMR1421.

I am converting all my exterior lights to LED and in the process I have discovered that these new LED lights only work with the AMR1422 bulb holder. They do not work in the AMR1421 bulb holder. I am wondering if someone can tell me why that is? If I remember correctly the AMR1422 is a 3 prong and the AMR1421 is a two prong connector.

Does it have anything to do with polarity? Does the current run one way in AMR1422 and the other in the AMR1421? I'd like to know that the $500 worth of LED bulbs I have bought can be made to work. Is there anything that can be done to change this? I don't think the bulbs can be changed but I am wondering if a) I can rewire the bulb holders or b) I can replace all AMR1421 bulb holders with AMR1422. What would be the impact of this? Thoughts from anyone knowledgable on the subject would be greatly appreciate it.
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Old August 25th, 2010, 11:02 PM
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Bill Adams
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Wait, what? What you should do is buy the LED bulb going by the lamp type and not the socket type.
I don't know where you are buying those expensive lamps, but I know where you can get all your lamps that will work on a defender for like 8-10 bucks each. Bought lots of stuff from them and they sell good products. The lamps are colored according to application.
You understand that you need a load simulating resistor for each bulb as well as an electronic 4way flasher. That adds another 4bucks per lamp.
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Old August 25th, 2010, 11:31 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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The bulbs are the correct lamp type. They were made as replacement car bulbs. I got the high powered LEDs (45 high power LEDs per tower bulb) from Superbrightleds.com which are twice the cost . The white are 220 lumens and the red/amber are 120. How many lumens do your bulbs output? I also got the flasher relay and the resistors. The flashers didn't work with the new bulbs even though the LED relay was installed. I have yet to install the resistors on them.

I'm wondering if someone can tell me why the AMR1422 bases (tail lights) work just fine without resistors but the AMR1422 are not. I suppose I would have to install the resistors on these others to get a definite answer. I haven't done that yet. Will this make a difference? I'm just curious what it is about the base that makes one type of bulb base work and the other doesn't.

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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Wait, what? What you should do is buy the LED bulb going by the lamp type and not the socket type.
I don't know where you are buying those expensive lamps, but I know where you can get all your lamps that will work on a defender for like 8-10 bucks each. Bought lots of stuff from them and they sell good products. The lamps are colored according to application.
You understand that you need a load simulating resistor for each bulb as well as an electronic 4way flasher. That adds another 4bucks per lamp.
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Old August 26th, 2010, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
The bulbs are the correct lamp type. They were made as replacement car bulbs. I got the high powered LEDs (45 high power LEDs per tower bulb) from Superbrightleds.com which are twice the cost . The white are 220 lumens and the red/amber are 120. How many lumens do your bulbs output? I also got the flasher relay and the resistors. The flashers didn't work with the new bulbs even though the LED relay was installed. I have yet to install the resistors on them.

I'm wondering if someone can tell me why the AMR1422 bases (tail lights) work just fine without resistors but the AMR1422 are not. I suppose I would have to install the resistors on these others to get a definite answer. I haven't done that yet. Will this make a difference? I'm just curious what it is about the base that makes one type of bulb base work and the other doesn't.
Do a search and read the LED conversion thread where I posted some of my findings.

In short, I had to ditch the LEDs in the rear turn signals because the relays just never worked correctly. I tried every combination of everything. I'm still running them for the brake lamps and reverse lamps.

I'm not familiar with the part numbers for the bases but I can tell you that the brake light bulbs are dual-contact. They have one contact for normal running operations (i.e. headlights turned on) and another brighter mode for when the brakes are engaged. The bulb type 1156 is the single-conductor type, which you use for the turn lamps and the reverse lamp. The brakes are type 1157.
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Old August 26th, 2010, 12:59 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Chris,

That is correct. I got the 1157 tail light bulbs and the rest are 1156 type bulbs. I have read the threads related to LED conversion. Reese was able to get all lights converted including the rear turn signals.
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