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  #21  
Old July 18th, 2016, 08:23 PM
RBBailey
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No, no power to alternator till I turn the key with either option. It is NOT live with key off. The alternator is still getting hooked to starter, and thus to the battery in same way, just not with original harness. The only difference is that the new harness does not ALSO connect to the plugs going to lighting and all other systems in the car.

All I need to know is if it is OK to power the lights and vehicle systems directly from alternator, or is there some protection to the alternator/lights/etc... that is to be had by having the starter in the middle between the alternator and bulkhead plugs?
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  #22  
Old July 18th, 2016, 08:33 PM
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For me, I try to make the wiring as factory as possible. It is easy to pull up a diagram and find out a future problem. Plus if you sell the truck the next owner will be able to figure it out. The wiring systems on the older trucks are skimpy at best. There is a reason the factory did it the way it did. but that is me.
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  #23  
Old July 18th, 2016, 08:35 PM
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This is the factory wiring of the large gauge brown wires from battery:

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I omitted the other wires in the harness that go to ground, senders, etc. only interested in the power.

NOTE: This image should show that the wires to the plugs actually attach to the starter on the same side as the alternator. The starter solenoid is the break between the plugs and alternator on one side, and the battery on the other.
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  #24  
Old July 18th, 2016, 08:38 PM
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This is how the vehicle is wired now. The wire going to the plugs is only being used because it makes sense to not hack out the factory plugs. The wires from battery to starter to alternator are all new.

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  #25  
Old July 18th, 2016, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
For me, I try to make the wiring as factory as possible. It is easy to pull up a diagram and find out a future problem. Plus if you sell the truck the next owner will be able to figure it out. The wiring systems on the older trucks are skimpy at best. There is a reason the factory did it the way it did. but that is me.
^^This^^

I would just cut the harness and replace connectors as necessary, lay it out As the factory would. The more joints you add the more potential for Lucas to pay a visit!
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  #26  
Old July 18th, 2016, 09:28 PM
RBBailey
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Well... I'm eliminating two joints. It's merely a question of whether I have three more terminals at the starter, or one at the alternator. I was going with how we had discussed when you were here, but had the question in my mind of whether it was OK to go direct from alternator. I can't see a difference, really, I thought experts could tell me if I was missing something.

I'll need to buy a new harness then. I don't know how to make my own 6 and 8 terminal Lucas plugs! LOL!
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  #27  
Old July 18th, 2016, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Well... I'm eliminating two joints. It's merely a question of whether I have three more terminals at the starter, or one at the alternator. I was going with how we had discussed when you were here, but had the question in my mind of whether it was OK to go direct from alternator. I can't see a difference, really, I thought experts could tell me if I was missing something. I'll need to buy a new harness then. I don't know how to make my own 6 and 8 terminal Lucas plugs! LOL!
I would leave he main plugs and cut the other ends of wire, then you can lay out the harness and use new crimp spade and ring terminals as necessary.

A new harness isnt too bad. I think Brian stocks the 300 harness for around $400.00.
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  #28  
Old July 18th, 2016, 10:28 PM
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Honestly I have no idea how you got the thing to start and run using the V8 harness. It's just plain wired wrong for the diesel. The key switch for petrol is not going to start the diesel cz when you turn the key to start it kills power to everything, including the start solenoid of the injection pump. Or rather the petrol switch shouldn't start the diesel...
Need more details
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  #29  
Old July 18th, 2016, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Honestly I have no idea how you got the thing to start and run using the V8 harness. It's just plain wired wrong for the diesel. The key switch for petrol is not going to start the diesel cz when you turn the key to start it kills power to everything, including the start solenoid of the injection pump. Or rather the petrol switch shouldn't start the diesel... Need more details
At least the early v8 switches are the same as the tdi era switches. For Bens we ran the coil wire over to the fuel solenoid. Everything else is the same. Mine was also a V8 originally and has the original chassis and body harness. I have the correct 200tdi def engine harness which plugged straight in and works. The only thing I had to fab up was the glow circuit.
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  #30  
Old July 19th, 2016, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Honestly I have no idea how you got the thing to start and run using the V8 harness. It's just plain wired wrong for the diesel. The key switch for petrol is not going to start the diesel cz when you turn the key to start it kills power to everything, including the start solenoid of the injection pump. Or rather the petrol switch shouldn't start the diesel...
Need more details
As Ryan said. It starts without any glow plugs. All I have to do is keep the fuel solenoid activated by using the same circuit that the V8 fuel pump used (stays on with start and run positions on the key). So the only problem I've had is how to power the accessories. Originally, I thought that the power came from one of the connections at the starter. But this evidently only powers the start/key switch. The power to accessories comes from the harness that runs from alternator to starter to battery; at the starter it splits and goes to the accessories.

Really, unless I have a harness made special, this is the only way to go. I have a 300Tdi harness, but it is much more complicated than this -- The plugs are incompatible with the rest of the truck, lots of stuff there that I don't have, etc... -- so either I have to cut and replace all the plugs already in the rest of the truck, or simply bridge the one gap in this harness.

I'm pretty sure Ryan had it right when he was here, and my question, being written from the standpoint of being pretty ignorant about this stuff, just confused the issue that really wasn't an issue.
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  #31  
Old July 19th, 2016, 03:38 PM
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Hey, I'm pretty clueless about this but I swapped a 300Tdi into a RRC V8.
I pulled the entire V8 harness out with that motor.
My 300 runs plugged into the main.
What the hell is a 300 tdi harness?? I didnt use one...



.
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  #32  
Old July 19th, 2016, 04:40 PM
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300Tdi harness? I have one for sale. I guess.
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  #33  
Old July 19th, 2016, 08:13 PM
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It is something like the glow plug circuit, stop solenoid, Alternator, water temp, starter and oil pressure. I forget if it also includes some of the transmission wiring?
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  #34  
Old July 19th, 2016, 08:38 PM
RBBailey
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Yes, it is for an auto transmission, dated 1997. I think from DI.
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  #35  
Old July 19th, 2016, 11:51 PM
RBBailey
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This is one of the items that slipped through the cracks when I was dismantling the truck. I didn't label this small harness -- that is, I didn't label where the other end plugs into! (Circled in red)

Both those relays are in this harness. The black one says Hella. The green one says "Overspeed Monitor Unit PRC4268". The end of the harness is long enough that it spans the width of the bulkhead, has a rubber gommet at the end and a dual bullet plug with a black and white wire.

So I'm hoping one of you experts will tell me to just throw it back in the box on the shelf and forget it was in the truck.

Oh, and a bonus pic of some British engineering for taking the time to read my post.
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