Electrical - No Signals, Brakes, Hazards - Where to start? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:43 PM
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Electrical - No Signals, Brakes, Hazards - Where to start?

Vehicle: 1985 90 mated to a 1998 300tdi

Problem:
a) rear brake lights do not activate when brake depressed
b) neither L nor R turn signals turn on Front or Rear when activated at stalk, no clicking or dash light illuminates when stalk moves up or down
c) hazard button does not activate lights
d) heated windshield does not activate when switch pressed to on position and no light illuminates on switch
e) GKN overdrive light not illuminating when switch flicked on shift lever

This is all recent, today, after a cold, wet Boston evening.

What works:
-starts and drives as good as ever
-headlights and running lights (bulbs for brakes and turn signals F/R illuminate)
-bright lights work properly with appropriate change in dash light
-dash lights (headlights, battery, glow plugs work)
-radio works

I apologize for the naivety, but I honestly do not know where to begin. Thanks for your help.
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  #2  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:50 PM
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1: did they work previously?
2: did you recently install new lights (LEDs or otherwise)
3: what does work?
4: perhaps start with the hazard switch
5: check the integrity of your wires to your lights starting at the rear (where they're easiest to access) and work from there.
6: check fuses
7: etc.
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  #3  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:57 PM
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Thanks, Josh.

1: did they work previously?
-Yes
2: did you recently install new lights (LEDs or otherwise)
-No, I am fundamentally opposed to new lights.
3: what does work?
-Per above, headlights, running lights (signal bulbs and brake bulbs)
4: perhaps start with the hazard switch
-Ok, I can.
5: check the integrity of your wires to your lights starting at the rear (where they're easiest to access) and work from there.
-Bulbs for brakes are illuminating when headlights on, and front signal lights are working when running lights are on.
6: check fuses
-Tomorrow, I shall.
7: etc.
...
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  #4  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 10:02 PM
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I had about the same issue. I cleaned up where the fuses contact the fuse box and swapped out the fuses. All my electrical issues went away. I hope it is that easy for you too.
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  #5  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 10:10 PM
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Thanks, Dave. How did you clean the contact points in the fuse box? Simple contact cleaner? I agree, fingers crossed.

Other items that work:
-wipers
-window washer
-radio
-horn
-dome light
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  #6  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 11:02 PM
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I had similar issues on my 110, turned out most of my wiring was shot and so were my grounds.

To clean connections I use http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deo...ords=deoxidzer

but WD-40 also works, whatever you use, also a wire brush and or light sand paper help a lot too.
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  #7  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 11:04 PM
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On the glass fuse side I rolled a fuse with 1000 grit sand paper and gave it a few twists. The blade side I have a file like tool that does about the same thing. No major scrubbing requires. You just want to knock off any corrosion or oxidation.
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  #8  
Old December 4th, 2014, 12:46 AM
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This is 1 of 1000 reasons to get a cordless Dremel with stone or sandpaper attachments.

Almost as handy as 14 inch straight and curved long nose pliers for working on these trucks...
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  #9  
Old December 4th, 2014, 12:59 AM
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With no brake lights, I'd check the brake light switch. It is a common failure item. Its on the back of the brake booster bracket. There are two wires plugged into it. if you can unplug those two wires and jumper them together your brake lights should work. If they do then you know the switch you just bypassed is bad. If bypassing the switch has no effect go to the fuses for the brake lights, and then the bulbs. The hazard portion of the signal lights should work @ all times. If not it is likely the signal relay. This is also a frequent part to die after 29 years.
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  #10  
Old December 4th, 2014, 08:30 AM
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Check your negatives as well. They occur on each light through a grounding screw that also gets corroded A LOT.
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  #11  
Old December 4th, 2014, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjahx View Post
5: check the integrity of your wires to your lights starting at the rear (where they're easiest to access) and work from there.
-Bulbs for brakes are illuminating when headlights on, and front signal lights are working when running lights are on.
There are multiple wires going to the lights for running lights and brakes - your running lights wire(s) may be fine, but you may have a short in your brake wire. Just worth a check as part of your other checks, as they happen to usually short right at the end, back by the lights themselves, so it's usually an easy check through those rear wheel wells.
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  #12  
Old December 4th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Thanks for the assistance. Updates to follow.
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  #13  
Old December 4th, 2014, 08:35 PM
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Solved:

Brake Lights:
-Remove brake light switch, located on back of booster (thanks, Dave), connected those two wires via jumper with no illumination. Replaced all fuses with those that illuminate when toasted. No change. Replaced dual filament light bulbs ($5.99 at Autozone, referenced 1995 d90) = fixed. The bulbs on both sides had burned out brake filaments.

Signal + Hazards:
-Replaced all fuses with those that illuminate when toasted. Replaced flasher relay with unit from another Defender. Fixed. $28.

Parts for future reference:
-Brake switch - PRC4297 Of note, you can hook this up without being in the booster, and the brake lights will turn on. Insert into booster until the lights go out, via compression of the plunger.
-Flasher / Hazard / Indicator relay - PRC8876





Much appreciated!
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  #14  
Old December 4th, 2014, 08:52 PM
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Awesome news. Electrics on these trucks can drive a man to drink.
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  #15  
Old December 4th, 2014, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Awesome news. Electrics on these trucks can drive a man to drink.
That's putting it lightly
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  #16  
Old December 16th, 2014, 07:30 PM
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New problem today:

-Turn signal activated left or right -> all 4 signals, L/R + F/R, activate regardless of the direction of the stalk and only the trailer dash light illuminates, no turn signal dash lights.
-Hazard switch activated -> all 4 signals, L/R + F/R, activate and only the trailer dash light illuminates, no turn signal dash lights.

Of note, the vehicle does have a new trailer harness installed, which I would like to disconnect tomorrow.

Thoughts?
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  #17  
Old December 16th, 2014, 07:50 PM
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Trouble shooting that I did:

Hard wired 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'Left indicators' or 'Right indicators' -> the indicators on that side did light, constantly though, not flashing. this proves the bulb wiring is ok.

Hard wired 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'supply to flasher' (light green), the indicator stalk switch did work the indicators as normal (flashing). The indicator switch is connecting *flash* to 'Left Indicator' or 'Right Indicator' - the wiring is duplicated at the stalk switch.

This was with the help of this thread.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25376

So, I think that my problem is in the new switch, because bypassing it with direct wiring results in all functions working properly. Thoughts?
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