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  #1  
Old January 2nd, 2015, 09:07 PM
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Matthew Greenspan
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electric relay question

If I have a wire get hot, melt casing, and smoke right next to a relay(not sure of the order because I stopped it when I saw smoke) does that mean the relay is the likely culprit of the issue? The relay appears slightly rusted externally. It happened right where the wire comes off the ring terminal on the output side of the relay to the part that it is supplying power to.

I totally somehow posted this thread to another thread by accident. It was weird.
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Old January 2nd, 2015, 10:44 PM
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My 1st thought would be, why didn't a fuse pop 1st ?

Did someone add in this relay with no fuse?

What kind & year is your D ?
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:35 AM
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Matthew Greenspan
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Here is the wiring diagram. Wire in question was W/B(R) coming off air heater relay to air heater. Difference in my wiring are the air heater control is replaced with just a rocker switch and a second relay. After sleepi BFF on this I think I can just replace the air heater relay with my own relay that I put in.
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  #4  
Old January 11th, 2015, 08:48 AM
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Matthew Greenspan
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Thanks for all the help, lols. Update: In case anybody wires the stock air heater for a Mazda SL engine (SL35TI is what I have) it draws 190 Amps. I bought a 200 Amp relay, used appropriate gigantic wire, and put an equally appropriate humongous fuse. It was very fun routing it. Air heater gets warm when switched on and it doesn't burn down or blow the fuse. This will help the cold starting. How much is debatable. I realized that the new Optima Yellow Top was the reason it was starting in the cold so well. The heater hadn't been functioning at all and it was able to crank no problem in -4C temps. I had a good discount from promotive.com so I went ridiculous on the battery... join that site if you can!
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