electric pain, no start 200tdi - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 12th, 2016, 08:38 PM
tzbmcp
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electric pain, no start 200tdi

All:

Need some help please. Today while driving home, noticed wipers were running sluggish, went to turn on headlights and got nothing but a dim glow on the dash brights indicator. Turn signals also stopped working except one quick flash on the directional/trailer dash lights, then nothing. Fuel and temp gauges working fine.

Got home, turned off the truck, went inside the house, came back 5 minutes later to move it. Turned the key and only got a few dash lights, otherwise nothing, no sound, no turnover, no click, just dash lights. Think they were park brake and fuel (now below quarter tank). Damn.

Let truck sit 20 minutes. Tried to start again. First turn of key resulted in short engine tunover then engine/starter stopped followed by 4 dash lights rapidly clicking/flashing. Engine did not start. Try again resulted in shorter turnover followed by dash light flash/click. Third try no turnover, just dash light flash/click. Few more tries same thing, then eventually just two dash lights, no click/flash.

Let truck sit another 10 minutes. Hooked up jumper cables and started right up. While running checked and still same weird electrics I had earlier (no lights, no directionals, etc). Pulled truck in garage, turned off. Tried to immediately restart and nothing but two dash lights upon turning the key. No click, no turnover, no flash/click.

Thats how she sits right now.

Had brief fast directional flash and constant dimmed dash brights indicator a few weeks ago for about 10 minutes that resolved after I turned off the truck and restarted.


New battery this spring.
3 door 200tdi
Summer DD.

Will try to post video of the dash light flash/click

Any input, ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old August 12th, 2016, 08:41 PM
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I guess if it were me, I would put a meter on the battery and see what it reads.

After that, start the truck and see what the meter reads.

Alternator should of course be charging, but it sounds like it's not.
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  #3  
Old August 12th, 2016, 08:51 PM
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Battery morted or the alternator died. Easy to diagnose at any AutoZone for free.
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  #4  
Old August 12th, 2016, 08:52 PM
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Flat battery, bad ground, bad alt
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  #5  
Old August 12th, 2016, 09:31 PM
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Plus maybe burnt out no charging light. One of those few times an Alternator comes in handy on a LR.
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Old August 13th, 2016, 07:04 AM
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what they said
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  #7  
Old August 13th, 2016, 07:35 AM
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You could always jump start it and drive to a local auto parts supply store that can check alternator output to start with, but that is just a remix of the good advice in post 2.
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Old August 13th, 2016, 07:58 AM
tzbmcp
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Started right up this morning, but first checked batt voltage = 12.05 across batt terminals and cables not running

Immediately after starting voltage 10.06 and dropping. Lights, etc initially worked fine and then dimmed.


Before I pull the alternator, came across thread that talked about dash charge light. The battery light on dash does not light up when I turn the key prior to starting engine (never noticed this before, not sure how long its been this way). In a normally operating Def 200tdi is the batt light supposed to glow when turning the key to start the vehicle? If so, and mine does not, is there a connection/burned out light issue that could be causing the alternator to not charge battery?

Battery not charging - Defender Source

Thanks again for the input.
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  #9  
Old August 13th, 2016, 08:25 AM
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bad alternator, yours was probably only 45 amps in the first place. Consider upgrading.
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  #10  
Old August 13th, 2016, 09:23 AM
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If the light is blown the alternator won't charge. Definitely read the recent thread on the charging/wiring issue someone else was having.
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  #11  
Old August 13th, 2016, 09:38 AM
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Yep read that thread (among others), but one of the replies talks about a resistor in parallel with the light that allows the alternator to still charge?

Alternator Connection - Defender Source

[QUOTE=Red90;758799]There is a resistor in parallel to the light so that the alternator can continue to function with a dead bulb.

I don't get a light so still need to address that issue, but not sure if it compromises alternator function.

New alternator to be ordered today. Poured through lots of threads on alternators. Is there a final word on part number for defender 200 tdi alternator that I may get locally at auto parts store quickly (like today) without requiring modification?

Thanks everyone for your input.
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  #12  
Old August 13th, 2016, 10:18 AM
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Before you go throwing down the cash, have you checked the wiring for loose connections? Start with the battery leads. How tight is the alt belt? Replace the bulb and see if it works.
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  #13  
Old August 13th, 2016, 10:23 AM
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No loose leads, batt leads tight, belt tight.
Thanks
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  #14  
Old August 13th, 2016, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand View Post
If the light is blown the alternator won't charge. Definitely read the recent thread on the charging/wiring issue someone else was having.
Not actually true. There is a resistor in parallel to the light.

However, the connection could be bad or disconnected from the alternator.
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  #15  
Old August 13th, 2016, 12:45 PM
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Disconnect the small wire at the alternator (the one from the charge light). Turn on the ignition. You should have 12 V at that lead. If not, then the problem is in the wiring and that needs to be fixed.

Download the factory manual and follow the wiring schematic.
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Old August 13th, 2016, 01:02 PM
tzbmcp
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As luck would have it I pulled the alternator already. Part number A127 correct? Sounds like local auto parts stores won't have it in supply?

Light bulb works - put in another slot that was working, turned key and it lit up in the low gas slot (tank is low). Did not see any wires in dash area that looked out of place. All wire connections to white plug behind dash look intact. Connections to back of alternator looked clean, wires intact.

Appreciate the help. When you say "small wire" - that means the small brown one with yellow hash marks?


Thanks
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  #17  
Old August 16th, 2016, 11:44 AM
tzbmcp
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Update - new alternator arrived today. Little black wire/box thing on the back of the removed alternator which I think is the capacitor (?) did not come with the new alternator. Called the vendor, was told to ignore it. This true?

Can easily swap the one from old to new alternator but would prefer to use all new parts. Where could I get one of these?

Having trouble uploading pic of the part (capacitor), but its the black thing on the ground in the second pic of the thread in this link.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...rnator.284882/

Thanks
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  #18  
Old August 16th, 2016, 11:48 AM
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Just swap it over. It is for suppressing radio noise. No need for a new one.
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  #19  
Old August 16th, 2016, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tzbmcp View Post
Update - new alternator arrived today. Little black wire/box thing on the back of the removed alternator which I think is the capacitor (?) did not come with the new alternator. Called the vendor, was told to ignore it. This true?

Can easily swap the one from old to new alternator but would prefer to use all new parts. Where could I get one of these?

Having trouble uploading pic of the part (capacitor), but its the black thing on the ground in the second pic of the thread in this link.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...rnator.284882/

Thanks
I would make sure everything works before you go and swap over the noise suppressor as they can fail and cause issues themselves.
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  #20  
Old August 21st, 2016, 11:42 AM
tzbmcp
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Update - new alternator (from RN) installed. new capacitor, belt tight and in good shape, Battery light illuminates when turning the key (did not before). Starts up right away. Great.

Problem partially solved as I now have a running truck, only the battery charge light stays bright until I give it gas, then goes out. Drove to gas station and back, to work and back, no problem.

At home:
Hooked up multimeter (pos to pos batt terminal, neg to neg battery terminal) 12.2 volts not running, no key. Immediately after starting at idle - 11.74 volts and battery light on (same reading when hook up meter from Alternator post with large brown wire to neg on battery). Hook up meter again to batt terminals. Watch for a minute, slowly drops to 11.71. After 5 minutes, down to 11.50 and battery light on.

Rev engine. up to 12.23 volts, battery light off. Slow voltage decrease over a few minutes to 12.11.


Believe it should be around 14.5 while running, 12.7 not running correct?

Seems like the the alternator is putting out charge, just not enough. Belt is tight, alternator is turning. Visually wires look to be in good shape. Connections at back of alternator are tight, sanded and clean. Not sure what else to do. Need some ideas to look next.

Thanks
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