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  #21  
Old October 8th, 2013, 11:03 PM
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Bill Ski
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I've used Justin's snap-on and it is freaking awesome.

At the unit we have a 1/2 18v Dewalt and it is damn good as well.
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  #22  
Old October 8th, 2013, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
I've used a few snapon ones, they were amazing...
x2...I have the SnapOn CT6855 and think it is the greatest thing in the world. With 450ft-lbs of takeoff torque, it made short order of the huge ass pinion nut on the Salisbury rear end and that's what sold me on it. Also has a cool matching LED light that uses the same battery, and is one of my favorite tools as well.
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  #23  
Old October 8th, 2013, 11:25 PM
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Frank Rafka
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I'm a big Dewalt fan, have a bunch of 18volt stuff including:

DC825 Driver/Impact
DW059 1/2" Impact wrench

Great everything short of the really rusted shit, then it's a Snap-On air impact..mg825 or something along those lines which I can run off the co2 tank if on the trail...
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  #24  
Old October 9th, 2013, 08:02 AM
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David Short
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I found a Snap On just like Lavender's above on CL. I LOVE IT.

The battery lasts a good while and it has not been stumped once on any bolt on my Land Rover.
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  #25  
Old October 9th, 2013, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Also has a cool matching LED light that uses the same battery, and is one of my favorite tools as well.
The Snap On light is the main reason I bought a Snap On cordless drill.
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  #26  
Old October 9th, 2013, 04:33 PM
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Is the decision to go 1/2" or 3/8" based primarily on what size the bulk of your sockets/tools are, and/or any potential increase in torque specs for a 3/8" over a 1/2"?
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  #27  
Old October 9th, 2013, 05:02 PM
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I went 3/8" and got an adapter strictly because the size of the entire 3/8th"s impact gun was so much smaller, fits better!
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  #28  
Old October 9th, 2013, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Is the decision to go 1/2" or 3/8" based primarily on what size the bulk of your sockets/tools are, and/or any potential increase in torque specs for a 3/8" over a 1/2"?
Go with 1/2. Given your current work shop I doubt you will have air any time soon.
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  #29  
Old October 9th, 2013, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Is the decision to go 1/2" or 3/8" based primarily on what size the bulk of your sockets/tools are, and/or any potential increase in torque specs for a 3/8" over a 1/2"?
1/2" impact wrenches usually have more torque. Adapting down to 3/8" is pretty easy.

My favorite air tool is a $100 Harbor Freight 3/4" Air Impact Wrench. It is extremely quiet, as it makes a very low frequency impact sound. It pushes 1000 ft/lbs which is handy for removing crankshaft bolts. I can put on a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and really do a number on tough bolts/nuts
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  #30  
Old October 9th, 2013, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Go with 1/2. Given your current work shop I doubt you will have air any time soon.
x2. I've always felt that if you need 3/8", then it can be easily taken off by hand. 1/2" is when you actually "need" an impact.
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  #31  
Old October 9th, 2013, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
x2. I've always felt that if you need 3/8", then it can be easily taken off by hand. 1/2" is when you actually "need" an impact.
I feel like a lot of the bolts that can be taken off by hand just come off so much quicker with the impact...
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  #32  
Old October 9th, 2013, 08:36 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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I have a IR 3/8" that is great! It came as a set with a LED work light and a Drill. It came with the Charger, one Ni Cad battery and one Lithium Ion. Nothing compares to a big 1/2" Air Gun but this thing is great. I bought the set a couple years ago and have left them with one of our techs who lets me use his tools. He put his old snap-on stuff away and has been using all mine for two years now and every time I pick them up I am still amazed at how great they are. I don't sell them or have any stake, but after owning virtually every brand of tools, nothing has compared to the IR stuff in quality, durability, power and battery life.
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  #33  
Old October 9th, 2013, 10:48 PM
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There is no bolt I can't remove by hand (breaker bar plus pipe plus my fat ass) but impacts are so much quicker for disassembly.
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  #34  
Old October 9th, 2013, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
There is no bolt I can't remove by hand (breaker bar plus pipe plus my fat ass) but impacts are so much quicker for disassembly.
Spend a few winters where I live.
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  #35  
Old October 10th, 2013, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
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Spend a few winters where I live.
I grew up two miles from Canada and my first rovers were series trucks used as plow trucks in Ontario! I still remember using a six foot pipe (obtained by disassembling a hammock support -- sorry mom) to get the pintle off the 59.

------ Follow up post added October 10th, 2013 12:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
What about a crank pully bolt or a steering box bolt? -Jeff
Never had a problem with the steering box. Crank pulley is easy. Set the breaker bar and hit the starter.
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  #36  
Old January 22nd, 2014, 03:27 PM
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Joshua
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I went with the DEWALT DCF880M2 20-volt MAX Lithium Ion 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench Kit with Detent Pin

Amazon just updated the price a few days ago - I've been tracking it for the past few months - and it went from $270 to $215.20 which is by far the cheapest I've seen, so I pulled the trigger using my Christmas Amazon card.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...productDetails

Eventually I'll have room (and a real garage) to be able to run air tools, but for now this should cut it for my usage.
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