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  #1  
Old September 21st, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Electric Block heater?

Well i knew this was coming, and now that the weather is getting cooler at night (only low 60's high 50's though) The 200tdi is taking longer and longer to run smooth when I start it up. What used to take 50' to the end of the block for the smoke to stop and the rough running to smooth out, is now taking a mile or so. Also -i haven't seen the temp guage get anywhere near optimal when running around town with it.

I'm going to change the thermostat today, which might help with getting up to temp while driving, but it wont help with the rougher starts.

Does anyone make an electric block heater that wouldn't require total engine dissasembly of this engine? Like new diesel pick ups have? I'm sure I'll need/want something it as winter gets here.

The engine still fires right up without issue, I just dont want to be blowing smoke for miles when the winter comes

Its not a ridiculous amount of smoke, but certainly noticable (and its fuel not oil or coolant or anything)
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  #2  
Old September 21st, 2012, 11:38 AM
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As suspected the t stat was stuck open. Hope the new one fixes at least that issue


Stupid ? The flat part of the t stat goes up right? Forgot to make note when I took it out.
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Old September 21st, 2012, 02:44 PM
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Does it continue to smoke if you just start it and let it run or do you have to drive before it clears up? Do you need to use the glowplugs or does it fire right up without needing them? What is the condition of the injectors, and have you adjusted the pump timing at all when engine went in? I am thinking of looking into some things before deciding a heater will solve the problem as it should be fixable and should not need heating for 50 deg. weather.

In my series truck I have an electric heater which connects into the bottom radiator hose to warm the coolant, it is simple to install and works great especially keeping it warm before I go plow with it.
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Old September 21st, 2012, 03:09 PM
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Does it continue to smoke if you just start it and let it run or do you have to drive before it clears up?
I never really let it sit idling for long at all.... but if I let idle for a lil (maybe a minute), I'll still need to drive it for it to clear up but not as much as if I had just got in it and took off


Quote:
Do you need to use the glowplugs or does it fire right up without needing them?
No - it fires right up without them. Better then most gas engines lol


Quote:
What is the condition of the injectors, and have you adjusted the pump timing at all when engine went in?
No idea about the injectors (I could pull them and take a look i guess, not sure what I'd be looking at though). I did not adjust the pump timing at all, but who knows how it was put together as I'm told this engine was a rebuild that sat unused for a few years.
Quote:

I am thinking of looking into some things before deciding a heater will solve the problem as it should be fixable and should not need heating for 50 deg. weather.
Agree, i wasn't meaning i'd be plugging it for 50 degree nights, I was just thinking ahead for when the weather turns to 0 degrees

Quote:
In my series truck I have an electric heater which connects into the bottom radiator hose to warm the coolant, it is simple to install and works great especially keeping it warm before I go plow with it.
Whats the manufacturer of it? Wonder if they make a universal one I could adapt?


I just took it for a short drive and it warmed up much faster with the new t-stat, and the temp guage got higher than it ever had before, but then maintained that reading (so i at least know the t-stat is operational. I'm just guessing my guage isn't calibrated for a 200tdi engine.... I'll be getting a more accurate guage that actually gives a number reading vs. a C-N-H reading. The heat blew hot for the first time ever when I tested it out lol.
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Old September 23rd, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Pretty sure my inline heater is a napa or other off the shelf universal type.
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Old September 23rd, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Temro (Zerostart) part number 3100087 fits a 200TDI

The 3100087 fits the 300Tdi as well.

KAT'S FROST PLUG #11441 I have one installed in mine.
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Old September 24th, 2012, 10:04 AM
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FYI

The temo/zerostart is 600W

all other including the KATS, carquest and napa equivalents are 400W


http://phillipsandtemro.com/userfile...CATALOG(1).pdf
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Old September 25th, 2012, 11:06 PM
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For getting the temp up around town, consider getting a radiator muff. I run them on the Series and the Tdi...helps a lot.

But I'd like to know about the block heater too actually.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
For getting the temp up around town, consider getting a radiator muff. I run them on the Series and the Tdi...helps a lot.
Only if your thermostat is leaking..
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Old September 26th, 2012, 12:50 AM
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I would change out the Glow Plugs and maybe the wires as well. Letting older diesels idle for a few minutes to warm up in winter is a good idea, my tdi jetta runs a little rough for the first 1/4 mile when it gets chilly if i don't give it a minute or 2 to get a little warm.

I do hope you are ready for some cold mornings on the way to work, gonna take 5-10 minutes of driving before you really get heat.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 07:20 AM
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Well it gets warm and holds heat much better now that I changed the t-stat. The old one was stuck wide open. I dont think the Muff will be needed

Its certainly not a daily driver, but I do try to drive it almost daily. Even if its just taking the dog to the park for a jog/hike in the PM.


The more i pay attention to it, i think its one cylinder in partiuclar that is missing for a little bit. It feels down on power when its smoking. Half way down the road and you feel the missing cylinder "kick" in and the smoke stops??? Not sure what would cause that.



Anyone have a picture/diagram of which freeze plug they used on a 200tdi for the block heater?
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Old September 26th, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
The more i pay attention to it, i think its one cylinder in partiuclar that is missing for a little bit. It feels down on power when its smoking. Half way down the road and you feel the missing cylinder "kick" in and the smoke stops??? Not sure what would cause that.
Valve sticking. Eventually the thing warms up and it breaks loose. One of these days take the top cover off while the engine is cold and turn it by hand to see if only one or more is sticking open or closed. You might need a feeler gauge to tell.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 08:12 AM
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Letting older diesels idle for a few minutes to warm up in winter is a good idea, my tdi jetta runs a little rough for the first 1/4 mile when it gets chilly if i don't give it a minute or 2 to get a little warm.
This is one of the worst things you can do to an engine...
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Old September 26th, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Well it gets warm and holds heat much better now that I changed the t-stat. The old one was stuck wide open. I dont think the Muff will be needed

Its certainly not a daily driver, but I do try to drive it almost daily. Even if its just taking the dog to the park for a jog/hike in the PM.


The more i pay attention to it, i think its one cylinder in partiuclar that is missing for a little bit. It feels down on power when its smoking. Half way down the road and you feel the missing cylinder "kick" in and the smoke stops??? Not sure what would cause that.



Anyone have a picture/diagram of which freeze plug they used on a 200tdi for the block heater?
i used the front freeze plug...its a pain in the ass with the motor in the truck and with the manifolds on to do.

I ended up replacing all the plugs for good measure...I still needed to "massage" the heating element so it wasn't touching and of the cylinders
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Old September 26th, 2012, 12:25 PM
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This is one of the worst things you can do to an engine...
To a modern diesel i agree that it is not something you want to do, but warming up an older diesel is fine, especially considering mine has 300k miles on it. And i also did not say for 10 minutes, i said a minute or 2, if you have ever worked with diesel machinery you will notice they have a brief warm up and cool down period.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Only if your thermostat is leaking..
In my experience, the cold weather in the northeast regardless of thermostat the colder air in the winter makes the engine work "harder" and takes much longer to come up to temp (or, may run just south of optimum temp). A muff limits that cold air flow and allows it to function more efficiently, in turn the engine does not work as hard and things run at a more normal operating temperature. Just talking basic fluid dynamics here.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 01:30 PM
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If you think it could be one cylinder it could be one injector not spraying properly until it warms up. I have had this happen. Just start it up and crack the fuel line at the injectors one at a time and see what happens to the smoke (I wrap a baby diaper around it to catch the fuel). You will not be firing on that cylinder when it is cracked and if it is that injector at fault it will no longer smoke. simple and worth a shot.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
In my experience, the cold weather in the northeast regardless of thermostat the colder air in the winter makes the engine work "harder" and takes much longer to come up to temp (or, may run just south of optimum temp). A muff limits that cold air flow and allows it to function more efficiently, in turn the engine does not work as hard and things run at a more normal operating temperature. Just talking basic fluid dynamics here.
Yes, well, check my location.... My experience is down to -40 and it does not make any measurable difference if the thermostat is not leaking. Also, IME, the majority of thermostats leak. Making sure there is zero heat in that upper rad hose until the engine is at normal temperature is critical to getting the engine hot in cold weather.

The other point is that blocking the intercooler is asking for a dead engine.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 02:12 PM
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To a modern diesel i agree that it is not something you want to do, but warming up an older diesel is fine, especially considering mine has 300k miles on it. And i also did not say for 10 minutes, i said a minute or 2, if you have ever worked with diesel machinery you will notice they have a brief warm up and cool down period.
For all intents and purposes, these are modern diesels. Cold idling results in liquid fuel getting into the rings and coking them off. The quicker you can get that first acceleration in to get cylinder temperature high enough to prevent this the better.
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