ECU's and water intrusion/corrosion - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 11th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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ECU's and water intrusion/corrosion

So what's an acceptable amount of corrosion to find in your ECU "black box" and what if anything can be done to prevent and clean it? I've got some white "powder" in the bottom of mine that looks like the contents of the navel of one of Charlie Sheen's prostitutes.
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  #2  
Old March 11th, 2011, 09:54 PM
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to clean it iwould suggest a spray made by crc I think it is called circuit and contact cleaner, to protect the board and chip, I would suggest a liberal dose of clear electrical non cunductive lacker (sort of clear coat but circuit safe) or a thin coat of dielectric grease.
either one of those will protect the circuitry from future water damage due to lacker being poliurethane and of course the dielectric grease just makes the whole thing water resistant.
finally to further assist the seal around the blackbox I would apply a bead of rtv silicone.
you are almost assured to have a completely water proof unit and unlike a becm the ecu does not get hot to the point of self destruction so airtight is ok.
the box it self is made of aluminum which in turn dissipates heat. so it may be a win win situation.
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Old March 11th, 2011, 11:24 PM
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I know that Lucky8 sells a kit or the like.
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Old March 11th, 2011, 11:49 PM
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Huh? Link?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
I know that Lucky8 sells a kit or the like.
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Old March 12th, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
I know that Lucky8 sells a kit or the like.
He use to.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 03:04 PM
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So this corrosion or the water intrusion itself has been a big part of the runnability issues I've been having as of late. I've been running a loaner ECU for two weeks (in a ziploc ) and the issue appears to have gone away. Before I smear dialelectric grease all over the new ECU and seal it with silicone is there any concensus on this being the best solution?


I have heard of some creating a simple rubber "flap"of some kind. Ideas?


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  #7  
Old March 22nd, 2011, 05:52 PM
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I had a similar moisture issue with the ECU housing years ago. When I reassembled it, I ran a bead of silicone sealant around the case joint (and got as close to the clip as possible). That worked for ~5 years. I say "worked" because I recently went into the ECU to look up a chip number and saw no more moisture problems...

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  #8  
Old March 22nd, 2011, 06:59 PM
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Is it water intrusion or condensation?
I have a tdi so it does not affect me... But I have a car amp that might be suffering from condensation frying it.... This would be the second amp with the same problem in 5 years... It is def not getting wet from the outside in, but def looks sim to the ecu pics...

Just asking..
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  #9  
Old March 22nd, 2011, 07:08 PM
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The PCB is dipped in a conformal coating which eliminates moisture corrosion on the board itself. Contacts are another story. As Carlos suggests, get some contact cleaner at RadioShack. Spray the area where the harness plugs in.
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  #10  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 06:25 PM
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1st: Take the ECU apart like you've done. 2nd: Spray entire board/connections with electrical contact cleaner. 3rd: Let it dry...you can use compressed air also to help dislodge any funk that didn't wash off. 4th: Put the box back together and run a bead of RVT where the rubber gasket is and make sure you get some around the plug fitting where the gasket goes around and whatever sqeezes out the sides...just rub it flat to make a good seal. 5th: Pack the plug itself with dio-grease and you're done. I've run Rover ECU's sealed like this for over 15yrs in the swamps of Florida and anywhere else that has hood deep water for mile long runs and never had a problem. You can use vasoline instead but it seams to break down over time with the heat of the electrics.
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  #11  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 07:37 PM
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Pull the AC and put the ECU where it was supposed to go. This is a painfully common issue on 94s. If you don't want to pull the AC, buy new vent seals and make sure the door seals properly. That amount of corrosion is nothing. I would do nothing other than bursh it off with a rag. BTW, they will run with an inch to two inches of water in the bottom.
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Old March 23rd, 2011, 10:13 PM
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If you can help me figure out my window top to door seals I'd be much obliged. For the life of me these won't seal. Tried seals up side down, right side up, backwards, sober, inebriated, etc to no avail.

The current ECU is what was causing my stalling issues as after swaping with a loaner the problem stopped.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Pull the AC and put the ECU where it was supposed to go. This is a painfully common issue on 94s. If you don't want to pull the AC, buy new vent seals and make sure the door seals properly. That amount of corrosion is nothing. I would do nothing other than bursh it off with a rag. BTW, they will run with an inch to two inches of water in the bottom.
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  #13  
Old March 24th, 2011, 03:49 PM
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Does the door seal at the front and not at the back of the door(on the top)?
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