Dynamat Under Carpeting? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 17th, 2015, 08:27 AM
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Michael Giroux
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Dynamat Under Carpeting?

Informed Opinions Needed.

My 110 is in paint now and I've had a few interior areas done with line-x. Our plan is to carpet the interior, as well.

The question is, should I also have dynamite/sound deadening product applied to interior areas that will be carpeted? This has been suggested and my concerns are ...

1. Although footwells are perfectly rust free now, it will be difficult to inspect later in life.
2. If I do need to access something, seems like the sound deadening could be in the way.
3. Will the carpet adhere to the dynamat well enough?

Are there other considerations?
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  #2  
Old November 17th, 2015, 08:43 AM
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many threads on this...search. The opinions are extensive.
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  #3  
Old November 17th, 2015, 09:10 AM
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Hey. I just finished installing dynamat throughout. Here are the answers to your specific questions.

1. Yes. Dynamat will make that inspection more difficult later. It is not removable.

2. The dynamat adheres strongly to the metal and essentially forms a "single part". I strongly suggest cutting the dynamat to the exact shape and size of the part you're covering so if you need to remove the part then it comes out as a single piece. We even made holes on the dynamat to match the screws where appropriate.

3. The carpet adheres perfectly to the backing of the dynamat. Better than to the metal I would say.

Now. For the subjective. I LOVE my dynamat. Lots of people here told me it would be a waste of money. Boy. Were they wrong!

The sound isolation is amazing. Makes the D110 driveable on highway, listen to music, have conversations! It also provides quite a bit of thermal insulation.

I'll post a picture of the inside.
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  #4  
Old November 17th, 2015, 09:46 AM
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PIcture of dynamat all over
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  #5  
Old November 17th, 2015, 10:36 AM
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Far from finished with dynamat but so far massively impressed with difference it's making. Measure able reduction in DB. My plan is to put carpet over, using Velcro not glue to secure it.

One interesting are is the seat box. It's the spot where you can apply Dynamat on both sides of the metal. Difference between no dynamat and covering just one side is remarkable. Doing the other side improves it further
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  #6  
Old November 17th, 2015, 11:01 AM
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What about initially doing just the big panels and only doing places that water is not likely to settle? I didn't think this stuff needed to be a wall-to-wall effort to be effective. You might want to double check you are not inadvertently skimping on bushes and mounts. Good rubbers matter.
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  #7  
Old November 17th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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The other thing we did, which had a significant impact and may avoid some of the rust concerns, is coat the underside with Lizard Skin. I believe Dynamat has the bigger contribution towards noise reduction, but the lizard skin helps and definitively protects against rust.
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  #8  
Old November 17th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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Chris deZ.
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I put mass loaded vinyl (MLV) with a closed cell foam under carpets. Mass Loaded Vinyl 48W w/Closed Cell (per foot)-Super Soundproofing Store

The pieces are cut like a floor mat and placed under the carpet. The pieces are heavy as hell, but easily removable. The closed cell foam cushions, so it physically uncouples the MLV from the vibrating floor. The foam also does an excellent job insulating cabin from heat. Before a long road trip I installed the MLV/foam under the floor mats, and covered the back wheel wells. The difference was dramatic. Interior heat in my SW was dramatically reduced.

I use dynamat on roofs (with an additional foam layer for insulation) but I do like the option of removing the MLV on the floors.
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  #9  
Old November 17th, 2015, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doktorno View Post
I put mass loaded vinyl (MLV) with a closed cell foam under carpets. Mass Loaded Vinyl 48W w/Closed Cell (per foot)-Super Soundproofing Store The pieces are cut like a floor mat and placed under the carpet. The pieces are heavy as hell, but easily removable. The closed cell foam cushions, so it physically uncouples the MLV from the vibrating floor. The foam also does an excellent job insulating cabin from heat. Before a long road trip I installed the MLV/foam under the floor mats, and covered the back wheel wells. The difference was dramatic. Interior heat in my SW was dramatically reduced. I use dynamat on roofs (with an additional foam layer for insulation) but I do like the option of removing the MLV on the floors.
That stuff sounds excellent. Probably too bulky to go over the Trans hump?
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  #10  
Old November 17th, 2015, 02:00 PM
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1of40, as an example, where I wanted the material to lay flat over the back wheel tubs I cut a notch in the closed cell foam, and on the opposite side of the MLV a score was cut to help it fold. Then I folded the material 90 degrees so it would lay flat over the sides of the wheel tubs.

So on the transmission tunnel I think one could cut a piece that would lay reasonably flat on the transmission tunnel. Plan on doing just that once I get my vehicle back to TX.

And I agree with your comment that one does not need to cover an entire panel with dynamat for it to be effective. The goal is to lower the resonance frequency of the panel, and that can be accomplished without adding the weight and expense of covering the entire panel.
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  #11  
Old November 17th, 2015, 04:15 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Do y'all think the sound and heat deadening mats from Exmoor, et al do a close enough job? or is it worth it to do the dynamat and carpet type setup?
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  #12  
Old November 17th, 2015, 04:25 PM
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I tried a bunch of non-permanent solutions: mats, honeycomb insulator, etc. before biting the bullet and going the dynamat route. IMO dynamat made a huge difference. I'm not a sound engineer, but non-permanent solutions allow vibration to travel through the metal. They help in "blocking" out some of the noise, but they don't really "insulate" and you can still hear road and engine noise throughout. The dynamat "deadens" the sound and absorbs all the vibrations coming through the metal. Again, this is all perception -- I didn't actually measure decibels or vibration levels.
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  #13  
Old November 17th, 2015, 04:32 PM
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Michael Giroux
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Very helpful insights. I appreciate the informed opinions!!!
Thx.
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  #14  
Old November 17th, 2015, 04:36 PM
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I just installed carpet in my 110 this past weekend. I had the exmore rubber mating and wanted a nicer interior. Tried putting the carpet Over the rubber and it was a fail.
I didn't want all the dynamat stuck to everything so I skipped that. I managed to install the carpet with just a little glue on the seat box and you can pull it back off and clean it with lacquer thinner if needed.
I'm really happy with the sound reduction of just the carpet. It's louder than the LR3, but it's a diesel brick with mud tires, it will have wind and tire noise.
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  #15  
Old November 17th, 2015, 04:44 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Kraig, did you do the exmoor carpet set? or something different? And over the entire tub?

Was it even half as easy as they make it look here?
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  #16  
Old November 17th, 2015, 04:59 PM
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I think that guy works for the glue company. He hosed the crap out of it.
I used almost none.
That's about it how it goes. I have the complete exmoor set. Got it from Zack at rovers north.
I figure I can go back and add stuff beneath it if I feel the need. With only a little glue on the seat box, I can mat that on the inside.
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  #17  
Old November 17th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Did you do anything over the seat tub to cut down on sound there?
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  #18  
Old November 17th, 2015, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
Did you do anything over the seat tub to cut down on sound there?
I've put some inside the battery and tool boxes.
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Old November 17th, 2015, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamkraig View Post
I just installed carpet in my 110 this past weekend. I had the exmore rubber mating and wanted a nicer interior. Tried putting the carpet Over the rubber and it was a fail.
I didn't want all the dynamat stuck to everything so I skipped that. I managed to install the carpet with just a little glue on the seat box and you can pull it back off and clean it with lacquer thinner if needed.
I'm really happy with the sound reduction of just the carpet. It's louder than the LR3, but it's a diesel brick with mud tires, it will have wind and tire noise.
when you say exmoor matting do you mean the hardura or the hardened formed matting?
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  #20  
Old November 17th, 2015, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
Kraig, did you do the exmoor carpet set? or something different? And over the entire tub?

Was it even half as easy as they make it look here?
Good grief...you are just asking for the footwells to rot out by glueing down carpet...
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