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  #21  
Old December 28th, 2004, 05:38 PM
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John B.
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Like I say it is not simple to check for a bad rectifier. Without an oscilliscope you need to pull the alternator apart and check the diodes loose. Most mechanics will just check the charging voltage. I personally went through two batteries and a few other electrical items before figuring it out.

Disconnect the alternator and see if that is where you are leaking power. If so, the rectifier is toast and most likely killing the batteries.
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  #22  
Old December 28th, 2004, 06:08 PM
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I will check that when I get the truck back. Thanks for the suggestion.
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  #23  
Old December 28th, 2004, 07:11 PM
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Red90 is spot on. I had the same trouble with one of my other Defenders and replaced the alternator with a Wrangler 200 amp model. Because the DC voltage it created still had waves of ac in it..it made the truck run poorly..and the rectifier blew...causing the electrical leak so common on D90s. So the new and old alternators failed....by discharging the battery.
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  #24  
Old December 28th, 2004, 10:54 PM
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I hope this is it. Only thing that I am worrying about is that the last couple times the battery drained while it was unhooked from the car. It is a 2 week old battery so I am hoping it has just not been charged fully yet.
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  #25  
Old December 28th, 2004, 11:17 PM
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When you say unhooked...do you mean removed from the car? Or is it supposed to be disconnected...but maybe...isn't?
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  #26  
Old December 29th, 2004, 02:07 AM
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It is in the car as far as it is still physically located there but there are no wires at all connected to it.
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  #27  
Old December 29th, 2004, 09:08 AM
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Jim, I have dual yellow tops and the battery management from Atlantic British. It's easy to install and for my use I think it is the best way to go. It's also available from Wrangler and others.

I run off one battery for normal use and switch to both batteries for winching. If you happen to drain one battery for some reason you still have the backup for starting.

The gel cell batteries are great because the batteries are inside the vehicle and they don't need to be vented and don't leak no matter what position they are in. (even in a rollover)

The bling factor was not a consideration and they have worked perfectly for three years with heavy winching nearly every time I go wheeling.
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  #28  
Old December 29th, 2004, 11:19 AM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
I hope this is it. Only thing that I am worrying about is that the last couple times the battery drained while it was unhooked from the car. It is a 2 week old battery so I am hoping it has just not been charged fully yet.
Put the battery on a quality automatic charger for a day or two to bring it back to life.

Do you have a ammeter to check where the power leak is specifically?
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  #29  
Old December 29th, 2004, 12:45 PM
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No, I don't, just a voltmeter. I have been charging the battery, it can go from full to unable to start the car in 3 days!
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  #30  
Old December 29th, 2004, 03:34 PM
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Steven Reed
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HellRoaring/Red Top/Yellow top

My Setup is a Hellroaring Isolator/Combiner
http://www.hellroaring.com
Red Top for Starting, all other Connections to Yellow top.
Remote Switch on Dash.
No Problems as of yet
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  #31  
Old December 29th, 2004, 08:09 PM
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Wiring two batteries in parallel, does that mean running cable from battery 1 positive to battery 2 positive, and battery 1 negative to battery 2 negative, then connect up battery 2 to the 90's electrics? Is it that simple? Also, will two Optima yellows or reds wired this way adversely effect the stock alternator?
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  #32  
Old December 29th, 2004, 08:12 PM
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It is that simple. Hook up both + to each other and both - to each other. 12 volts with lots of amps. Your alternator will not know the difference. The down side is if one battery dies it kills the other. Sort of an electrical "murder - suicide" thing.....FWIW
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  #33  
Old January 1st, 2005, 01:21 PM
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Nicholas Orros
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Ron,

There's a good write up on installing 2 optima batteries parallel on EE...
That's how I did mine.

N
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  #34  
Old January 1st, 2005, 02:29 PM
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That is a very nice clean setup. That may be the next project for my war wagon. I think Costco has a pretty good price for those yellow topped Optimas.
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  #35  
Old January 6th, 2005, 05:35 PM
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Brian Bonner
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No of these messages are helpful. First optima makes deepcycle starting batteries. these are different then standard deepcycle batteries. There are more then one model of all the colored tops. the yellow and blue top starter depcycle batteries are in fact for automotive starting use. Hence the category 34 designation. If you wish to know the truth CALL optima. I have been using deepcycle starting batteries in my D90 since 1998. I swear by them. If you are going to do any winching I HIGHLY advise using them. Their deepcycle batteries can take 400 deep discharges before killing the battery. The red tops cannot.

I use blue tops personally because they have extra 5/16" stainless studs on top for accessories.

As for using 2. you can just put 2 identicle batteries in parrallel. But if something happens and you kill the batteries your stuck. I put a solonoid isolator between mine that is simple off, seperating the batteries when the key is off and on joining the batteries when the key is on. This saved me recently as I had a high resistence short to ground I did not know about. till it finally killed the main optima.whihc took a very long time.

I got the battery tie down and solonid kit from http://www.wranglernw.com you might have to call them for it. I also purchased their 120Amp alternator which just drops in. although I recommend upgrading the wire to a thicker gauge and run it directly to the battery instead of through the starter lug as it is now.
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  #36  
Old January 6th, 2005, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbonner
No of these messages are helpful.
HOLY SHNIKES Brian Bonner! A blast from the past. Where have you been hidding?

DJ

PS About the Optimas well.......YOU'RE WRONG!
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  #37  
Old January 6th, 2005, 08:47 PM
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Brian,

How do you pronounce your last name?
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  #38  
Old January 6th, 2005, 09:33 PM
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not to rant but - comma - if my experiences can halp someone else out i figure it's justified (period)

running a dual set up can be good but can also be bad. i think that's been fairly well covered here. as for using optima yellow tops, i've gotta agree w/ David - i'm on my second w/i a year!

after over taxing my alt. and toasting a regular battery on a weekend outing (had to winch a jeep thru a few obstacles ) i did some research and decided to go w/ a deep cycle (d34 yellow top) - logistical issues prevented a dual parallel set up... (ahhh hindsight - should've run one batt for the starter and one for auxillary needs)

anywho, after three months the optima crapped out (very cold day). i must say i was a bit miffed - you drop a buck seventyfive for a battery you expect no starting worriez ever again. so i charged it back up threw it in and no problems - for nine months (but no winching or aux light use either).

when it died two weeks ago i assumed that either A) i had a draw in the e-system, or, B) optima's suck ass.

well i just got her outta flatirons rover yesterday - no abnormal draws in the system.

call me simple minded but i'm going w/ "B."


-snosrfr


p.s. - the fact that optima's customer service sux clown ass may have swayed my objectivity.
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  #39  
Old January 7th, 2005, 11:33 AM
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John B.
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So buy an Exide Orbital Deep Cycle/Starting battery. 85% the cost. MUCH bigger sales and distribution network. Some basic technology and same specifications. Never heard a bad word said about them. Available with single or dual posts.

Here in Canada, you can buy them re-branded at Canadian Tire for around 75% the price of an Optima ($170CAD versus $220 for Blue top). Returns are ALWAYS no questions asked, period, end of story.
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  #40  
Old January 7th, 2005, 12:09 PM
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Yeah, but do they come in perdy red and yellow colors?

Anyway, "Orbital" is fine in space but I'll stick with "Spiral" here on Earth. That's if I cared about these overpriced, overrated things!

We've certainly beat this to death!
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