I thought the car was in neutral and let go of the clutch... wrong..... (it was in gear) (loud noises) and now it doesn't move while the center diff is unlocked, seems to be fine when locked.
EDIT: could I have snapped a half shaft? That's the only thing I could come up with.
EDIT 2: when I put it in gear the front drive shaft spins.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
When the front or rear diff is dead that would happen. Or even a broken half shaft I suppose. Both seem odd to come out if no where if you just came back to a parked truck at home.
When the front or rear diff is dead that would happen. Or even a broken half shaft I suppose. Both seem odd to come out if no where if you just came back to a parked truck at home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry didn't make it clear.. I let go of the clutch while stopped and the car was in gear. something broke, just not sure what... when it's in gear the front driveshaft just spins and when I lock the diff it drives seemingly well.. but that's besides the point.. How do I check if it's a CV or the half shaft?
There is no way to check without taking it apart. It's slightly more likely you broke something on the driver side which is the longer shaft so I would start on that side.
If you remove the diff fill plug, you can jack up a wheel, rotate it and see which side is broken. Pull that side apart. It does not matter if it is a halfshaft or CV as they both come out together.
If this is an original 10 spline 1987 front axle, it is most likely the short side and will have broken at the root of the splines on the diff side of the half shaft. The fun part is that you need to pull both shafts and the diff housing to extract the broken bit.
Back in 2001, I did the same thing on a 110 (outside USA) and found the short side front shaft attached to the CV had broken cleanly in half.
We were close to a scrapyard in the Midlands near Malvern and pulled Disco I parts to fix it.
Was able to discover which side was broken using the same process Johnny B described in Post 5.
It took 2 of us about half a day to fix and then after stopping for diesel and fruit pastilles were on our way by nightfall.
We hung the front calipers with wire to avoid bleeding the brakes while it was apart.
Ok I did the look through the fill hole trick and it's the right side, do I just have to order the half shaft and seals? How bad of an idea would it be to drive it as is until the part arrives?
There's your problem! Is the only way of taking the piece that's on the diff by taking apart the diff?? And do I have to take both halfshafts to do so?
The cv is intact, just need to figure out how to take the shaft off the CV.
You need to pull the other shaft and then the diff housing. You can then tap the piece out with a long screwdriver from the side next to the cross pin with the diff still in the housing. Just dig in and keep going.
Once everything is out, clean the inside of the axle housing to make sure no metal debris is left behind.
Okay got both axles off and the driveshaft... tomorrow or one day this week I'll tackle the diff. Does it just come out after I undo all the bolts? Anything I should know before it comes off?
You can, and I have on the trail before. I used a CB Antenae and then taped a magnet to get out as much as possible. But if it were me, I'd just take out the third member---it is just bolts and not that bad. That way you can make sure everything is clean and debris out. Otherwise, I'd flush out the diff by raising the side opposite the drain plug (to get as much fluid out as possible and run some relatively clean oil through there. Sometimes, though, the axle end gets a bit jammed in and you need more force....
That looks about right. Spin it and it should feel properly supported on both ends.
If it's not in the the diff properly you'll feel slop on the end
Usually you have to leverage down on the outside end to get the diff end of the stick up and into the diff and you'll feel it slide in. There is no "click" or anything
------ Follow up post added June 24th, 2017 04:35 PM ------
Doesn't that depend
Older models had oil and newer trucks used a grease to help keep it from leaking
I've always put rover swivel grease in, never straight oil
Although either will work from a lubrication standpoint
I'm assembling the side that didn't break first since I don't have the other side. How do u know if the splines went in? Should it go deeper than this?
Left side and diff all done.. now to wait on the RH shaft in the mail..
whatever was in the swivels was pretty thick and didn't look like regular oil, I read somewhere about 00 grease for the swivels, would that be okay too? Or should I buy two of those bags from RN?
Hi, found this thread searching for my problem, I'll try to keep it short. I have a 1986 110 tithonus, the, 2.5na. I had my rear prop shaft out to replace a u joint and was driving with the diff locked. As I accelerated I heard a snap and lost all drive. I got it to the side, and started looking around. It shifted fine, and I saw the front prop spinning while in gear. So, luckily I was on my way to put the rear prop back in at home, and just put it in on the side of the road like a hobo. Voila, car drove. Got home, found this thread and checked it through the front diff fill hole. Spinning the tire on the long side makes things spin in the diff. Spinning the short side moves nothing, so... I'm assuming short side axle snapped? This is my everyday driver with no replacement, so from a practical standpoint I'm wondering my next step. Do I disassemble it now to confirm what the issue is? I know it's not recommended but I need it in the morning to get to work, where hopefully I can swipe a work van. Also, say it is an axle, do I need to order it from overseas? Is there a land rover model in the USA that uses the same part that I might be able to get tomorrow at a scrap yard? Any thoughts or advice would be welcome. Feeling like I made a mistake getting this as a daily driver...
Put it in gear cock the wheels.
Jack up the passenger front (no need to remove the wheel/tire).
Can you spin the tire ?
Remove the rubber grease cap.
Is the shaft in the center turning with the hub or have the spines on the hub it fits through stripped ?
Ok, clocked wheel, put in first gear, jacked passenger side (long side) and wheel spins fine, splines in center of hub moving with the wheel. Repeated on the drivers side (short side from diff) with the same results, wheel spins and splines in center of the hub spin with the wheel.
Yes. Broken short shaft. They break at the end of the diff splines. This is almost always the failure with those type of axles. You will need to pull both sides and the diff.
Is this a part that is on other rovers sold in the US? I was hoping I could get one off a discovery or something in a scrap yard, rather than waiting to order one from overseas. Is there a model that uses the same shaft? I watched a video on fixing it and think I can do it, but the part itself is the problem. My only question on the process is what parts I need... are there seals involved that I need to buy? Or can I just do it with just the shaft. Also, someone mentioned using grease instead of oil to avoid leaks. Where do you pack it all? Fill the whole housing? Sorry if I seem dumb, this might become obvious once I take it apart.
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