Drop Arm Ball Joint - signs of wear - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 25th, 2011, 11:44 PM
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Gustavo
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$ 33.00 at Lucky 8 ( complete arm with ball )

http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=5831
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  #22  
Old August 26th, 2011, 01:10 AM
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barry f
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Any difference between this and genuine? Was going to just do a rebuild so I don't wouldn't have to take arm off.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #23  
Old August 26th, 2011, 01:14 AM
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I did not notice any difference at all.

Rebuilding with the arm on ( did it once ) could be a bigger pain in the ass if you replace all components and will be very hard to press it.

Rent an extractor if you do not own one ( Advance Auto Parts )
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  #24  
Old August 26th, 2011, 08:21 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I'll second doing the whole arm. Buy a rebuild kit and rebuild the old as a spare of you want. Then report back on which was harder
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  #25  
Old August 26th, 2011, 09:51 AM
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Barry, check the Vendor's loft. Excellent price on complete set up.
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  #26  
Old August 26th, 2011, 09:53 AM
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Yeah I saw the great price. Then I saw Gustavo posted one cheaper. So I just need to rent an extra trot to pull arm off and I will be good to go?

------ Follow up post added August 26th, 2011 08:07 AM ------

Looking again 33 seems so damn cheap
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  #27  
Old August 26th, 2011, 11:09 AM
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I had a case where I bought a puller to remove the arm from the steering box. I broke the puller, took advantage of the lifetime warranty, broke another puller (also replaced under warranty), then I got smart and took the box to a machine shop. They broke their press trying to remove it. After they gave up, I ended up replacing the box.
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  #28  
Old August 26th, 2011, 11:14 AM
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Wasn't there a dude a few months ago on here or another forum who said he had it on a press at over 1k lbs and everyone said he was on crack.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #29  
Old August 26th, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Barry, even if you replace the entire arm, take the time to remove the cap on the bottom (held in by a circle clip) and drill & tap for a grease zirk on the bottom. Harbor Fgt. has a zirk kit with about 50 fittings for cheap. There is a spring under the cap so read the links I gave about the rebuild, so you'll know how to compress it for R&R. Having a zirk & keeping it full of grease will make it last longer.
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  #30  
Old August 26th, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Don't do this.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...1&postcount=15
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  #31  
Old August 26th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Might be a dumb question but if I do the arm, what's the best way to line up the new one? I imagine being one spline off like I when I pulled my steering wheel. I picture having to drive with the wheel to the right to go straight.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #32  
Old August 26th, 2011, 02:24 PM
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Charles Galpin
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it is keyed.
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  #33  
Old August 26th, 2011, 02:39 PM
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Thanks
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #34  
Old August 26th, 2011, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier View Post
$ 33.00 at Lucky 8 ( complete arm with ball )

http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=5831
Holy crap. That's cheap. Why am I not capable of finding such awesome deals?
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  #35  
Old August 27th, 2011, 01:34 AM
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Maybe because you do not look hard enough at Lucky 8 site

For the OEM Parts you must have a user and password

User = L8Parts
Pass = club




Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOB View Post
Holy crap. That's cheap. Why am I not capable of finding such awesome deals?
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  #36  
Old August 27th, 2011, 09:40 AM
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You people are either just a bunch of hacks, or you have no idea what you're doing.

First, a pitman arm puller is not made to simply pull the pitman arm off the box. That's why people are braking them. The right way to use a pitman arm puller is to only tighten the "bolt" to about 80 or 90ftlbs. You only want to put pressure on the pitman arm. Sometimes 80 or 90ftlbs is enough to remove the arm; other times 80 or 90ftlbs is not nearly enough. If 80 or 90ftlbs does not budge the arm, you take a big hammer and hit the pitman arm at the splines. This will shock the splines loose. Once it's loose you can use the puller to finish removing the arm.

From the factory, the pitman arm has some sort of wax in the splines. The wax, or what ever it is, is what makes it so hard to get off. After you do this once, it's easy to remove the pitman arm again.

...someone said the Defender pitman arm was keyed. I'm pretty sure that's not correct. I'm about 99% sure that the Defender pitman arm can be installed in any orientation.

On replacing the ball joint in the pitman arm....shit people, it's not hard. The hardest part of the entire process is compressing the spring so you can get the snap-ring back in place. It's not that big of a deal. Sometimes you may wish you had three hands, but it's not that hard. The last time I did this was in a gravel parking lot in Texas - I did not even remove the pitman arm, and I used a small c-clamp to compress the plate/spring while I fitted the snap-ring. The parts kit is like $15.00 from Will Tillery.
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  #37  
Old August 27th, 2011, 09:56 AM
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Dear Dan,

There is nothing that gives me more pleasure than being able to tell you STFU *LMAO*

Actually the pitman arm on a Defender box it is indeed keyed, ( bought 2 in the last months )
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  #38  
Old August 27th, 2011, 10:43 AM
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It's one of those jobs that goes easy or becomes very, very difficult. If you are mechanically inclined and have the proper tools it's possible. One problem for a DIY is that you really should use a high quality specific Pitman arm puller, not a cheapo or universal jaw puller. They are not cheap and I doubt it's worthwile for a one time job. It is ok to use a hammer to shock the joint loose, but be careful and if it doesn't go don't keep smacking it. Go to heat, preferably high heat like an oxy acetelene torch with a rosebud. You want to apply the heat quickly so only the arm heats up.
Plenty of PB blaster or the equivalent applied generously beforehand is also a good idea.
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  #39  
Old August 27th, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
It is ok to use a hammer to shock the joint loose, but be careful and if it doesn't go don't keep smacking it.
Yeah, because a hammer in the hands of a man will be more abusive than anything that pitman are will ever see in its lifetime.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Go to heat, preferably high heat like an oxy acetelene torch with a rosebud. You want to apply the heat quickly so only the arm heats up.
.
That little rubber seal in the bottom of the box loves it when you use heat from a torch.
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  #40  
Old August 27th, 2011, 11:29 AM
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barry f
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Can I rent the correct puller?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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