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  #81  
Old December 28th, 2010, 06:42 PM
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thomas
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I have heard that the TD5's have a computer in them that assist the driver. There is also a little light on the dash when it is working...(most of the time people dont look down when that light is flashing).
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  #82  
Old December 28th, 2010, 06:51 PM
george6
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Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974 View Post
I drive mine in the snow but my 93 Toyota pickup would run circles around it on a slick road.
Hey Huck, i was looking at buying a toyota hilux.But, i found the D90 more exciting to drive.I also wanted something which is easier to self service,even it requires more servicing than a hilux I'm hoping to pick up as many mechanical tips here as possible

------ Follow up post added December 28th, 2010 11:55 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
Ever driven a range rover in the snow? Or a 110? There's no comparison. Sure the 90 is better than an old Volvo, but as far as stability goes, such a short wheel base just doesn't do a very good job. The rear end really likes to spin right around!

Are they driveable? Yes, obviously. Do they do a pretty good job? Yes. But snowy road driving is not a 90's forté and plenty of other trucks do a much better job. They do great off the road in deep snow, however!

------ Follow up post added December 21st, 2010 09:00 PM ------


Yikes. I've driven a TJ in the snow and it was downright scary...

EDIT: now that I think about it, it was an older YJ. But I think they're pretty similar.
Yea Chris, she's performs well in deep snow .In fact, i feel she would drive better if the snow ploughs just leaft the snow on the road

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:02 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNRover View Post
Well, I can tell you that a swb is more hard to handle properly in icy or snowy conditions versus a lwb. I had a 88 before with mud tires. The tail was always trying to past the front.. Now I have a 110 and it is more stable. Frankly speaking the 88 or 90 will never be able to handle as well as a 109 or 110 in these type of conditions. But I do not believe a 90 is a bad vehicle. If you want to compare it to another vehicle compare it with a swb vehicle..As long as you go easy on the right foot (acceleration as well as deceleration), you should get where ever you want whatever the forecast.
Thanks Jeff, your right about the swb.I may exchange her for a 94'Toyota Amazon.Although,I think ill give her a few more months to win me affection.

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:09 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoleman762 View Post
I'll add my .02,

Let's see, this is winter number eight in Maine, and although three of them were very mild, the rest were big snow-makers. Without a doubt, when driving the 90, I much prefer to have the road unplowed with two or more inches of snow on it. The 90 handles that like a champ.

However, that's not usually the case. Once the DOT gets to work, and starts plowing and dumping that damned salt, it makes things much worse. Depending on temperature, it either creates this greasy slush-like solution that's like driving on butter, or it partially freezes thus creating a wonderful glazed-over-packed-snow-ice combination. Either of these is no fun to drive on. Any kind of speed going around a corner, and you'll end up in the ditch, diff-lock or not. Slow and steady wins the race here.

The 110 is a totally different animal, and handles much better. I still don't drive fast though, because you never know what the other idiots on the road are going to do. Then there's the whole needing to stop suddenly to avoid the moose on a pretty consistant basis....

Cheers,

Mike
Yea Mike, i nearly ended up in a ditch.Slow n easy was the only way forward.

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:28 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Mark,

If you're sliding or fishtailing you have lost control of your car. This is most likely happening since you're not familiar with your new vehicle. Once you're familiar with it you'll know exactly where that limit is. An experienced off-roader told me that 90% is behind the wheel. It's true but there are a couple of factors that will improve your ability. Full time 4-wheel drive, correct tire brand and pressure, weight and driver ability are all important determining factors in snow driving. I grew up in Sweden driving all kinds of cars in adverse snow conditions so I am very familiar with it. I love driving in snow storms. In my childhood during one of my most memorable snow storms they parked a tank in our drive way, as the army was out to deliver food to people. Needless to say it made an impression.

The BFG AT's are excellent in the snow although I don't have much experience with other Rover tires. The 90 is a bit light in the rear, especially if you have a soft top (since you're in Ireland I assume you don't). 300-400 lbs in the rear would certainly help. I haven't driven a 110 in snow but I can see why it would behave better than a 90. Even so the 90 is excellent on ice and snow if you know how to drive it and you have the right tires, pressure and weight. I drive on ice roads every time I go up to the mountain to snow board and I often pass people struggling to go up the icy hill.

I recently went on Rover run up to Triangulation Point here in the Tillamook Forest, Oregon (see attached picture). It was certainly test of my winter driving skills. 2 out of 7 Rovers chose to/were able to reach the top.
Wow Carl,that is some pic.I will want to feel more comfortable behind me wheel,before i tempt a drive like that But yes, i was too unfamiliar with her at the start.Its been one week now & i feel i am getting to grips with her all round handling limits.She is exciting to drive & she's growing on me.Yesterday,i took a hill in the ice,cars were sliding sideways downhill,while i accelerated around them up the hill

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:40 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh View Post
I've been doing a lot of snow driving this week up in Northern Ontario on everything from a foot of fresh powder on hills and gravel to snow on highways where the snow kicks things around quite a bit. Overall I'd say traction has been good, but there is an issue: bump steer. I only have a 40mm lift and everything in my steering/suspension is as tight as it can possibly be, super precise but castor is too steep which means little self-centering effect. On the highway this means always paying attention but when you get loose snow it means massive feedback through the wheel and lots of over-correction which makes things feel very uncontrolled.

I suspect that once I correct/over-correct the castor things will stabilize dramatically and it's something to think about. Any steering slop at all will magnify when the road starts trying to steer you vs the other way around.
Thanks Andrew.The steering slop is fractional i.e. about 2cm left & right.This would probably be reason enough as to why i had trouble trying to steer in the ice, because i found meself having little steering control & sliding off center.I will have to look at me Land Rover handybook to figure out how to rectify it,so it's precise.
Safe driving buddy.

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:47 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans View Post
George;

Since you started this thread about snow driving, I now place full blame on you for the blizzard that's just about to hit me.

-Hans
Sorry Han, i wouldn't live in NY if i didn't like the snow Embrace all that mother nature has to throw at you. I would much prefer your snow than the rainy conditions currently over Ireland.

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:48 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Yeah, was just thinking I could get some snow driving/testing in with this storm and give a better account. But I'm pissed about the storm - was supposed to go to FL today but everything is canceled
Now Florida would be nice! (& sunny )

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:54 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by newfD90 View Post
I found it. It's not that exciting; filmed from the passenger seat.

Here's a looks good from a distance shot. Canvas hood is off for the season:
Nice pick up Chance. Mine is a swb pick up with the canvas.I'll have to upload a pic soon.

------ Follow up post added December 29th, 2010 12:59 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by huck1974 View Post
I stay a lot warmer since I pulled the restriction out of the vents. I actually have to turn the fan down in a 94 original soft top in 20 degree weather.
Hi Shane, me inside downward air vent isn't blowing out air to me feet.Me feet are freezing,any tips on fixing this prob?
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  #83  
Old December 29th, 2010, 02:41 AM
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Niels Werring
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I use Cooper Discoverer M+S 265/75/16 on my 90 and 110. We get A LOT of snow here in Norway, and I have no problems at all. I keep a tow strap in the rear to tow my friends Mitsubishi Pajero and Wranglers :-)
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  #84  
Old December 29th, 2010, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwerring View Post
I use Cooper Discoverer M+S 265/75/16 on my 90 and 110. We get A LOT of snow here in Norway, and I have no problems at all. I keep a tow strap in the rear to tow my friends Mitsubishi Pajero and Wranglers :-)
I've had good luck with Cooper tires in the past. Anybody using the Cooper Discoverer S/T? Thinking about them in a 255/85.
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  #85  
Old January 5th, 2011, 01:12 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Mark,

If you have a 2 cm play in the steering and you're new to the vehicle I would highly suggest having a shop check out the steering and joints. I had quite a bit of play until yesterday when the trail arm fell out of the drop arm. The joints wear and rust over time and it can be very dangerous if they fail. Check separate thread.

------ Follow up post added January 5th, 2011 01:19 AM ------

I'm pretty sure there's only one version. Mine have white lettering on the inside and black on the outside. They ask you which you want during install and flip the tires depending on what you choose. I didn't want the white lettering so they installed them with letters facing inwards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhobbs
What version of the BF Goodrich A/Ts do you have? The black wall version is not severe snow rated like the Raised White Letter version. Not as much siping.
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  #86  
Old January 5th, 2011, 08:43 AM
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Definately put some weight in the rear. Even a hundred pounds at the back makes a big difference especially when there isn't a lot of snow on the road but it's slippery. Since I always need salt at the shop in Winter I keep a few bags (sealed) of it in the back of the truck.
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  #87  
Old January 5th, 2011, 04:14 PM
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robert hall
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here in anchorage we go above and below freezing all winter so the roads are usually icy or icy/snowy from october to april. most people use studded tires for the winter which puts convenient grooves in the pavement so steering is optional. my D90 came with BFG MTs which is a terrible snow tire so i put NOKKIAN HAKKEPELITA studded tires on for the winter and do fine and have never even thought about using the diff with normal driving.
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  #88  
Old January 7th, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Greg Liebig
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We got about 2" of snow here. I went to pick my mother up today and barely made it up her driveway. It's kinda steep and you can't hit it straight on when entering. Going down, I almost slid into her brick mailbox structure. The cheeks were puckered.
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  #89  
Old January 7th, 2011, 01:18 PM
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In a Land Rover? What gear? Tire pressure?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gliebig View Post
We got about 2" of snow here. I went to pick my mother up today and barely made it up her driveway. It's kinda steep and you can't hit it straight on when entering. Going down, I almost slid into her brick mailbox structure. The cheeks were puckered.
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  #90  
Old January 7th, 2011, 01:24 PM
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On a pseudo-related note, since Dave had helped me with some questions, I've been tearing up and down our mountain in 2WD since I got my new rubber yesterday (went with 30x9.5-15s for the Series). Have barely slid at all, and we've probably got 2" here and things are pretty steep (granted the pics with the exception of the last one ewere from yesterday before we got any snow).

PS - very happy with this size selection for the Series, and much better than the 235/75-15s that were on there (which were measuring a hair over 28" diameter...these are closer to 29.5-30").
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  #91  
Old January 7th, 2011, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
On a pseudo-related note, since Dave had helped me with some questions, I've been tearing up and down our mountain in 2WD since I got my new rubber yesterday (went with 30x9.5-15s for the Series). Have barely slid at all, and we've probably got 2" here and things are pretty steep (granted the pics with the exception of the last one ewere from yesterday before we got any snow).

PS - very happy with this size selection for the Series, and much better than the 235/75-15s that were on there (which were measuring a hair over 28" diameter...these are closer to 29.5-30").
Looks good, I'm a big fan of BFG AT's in snow
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  #92  
Old January 7th, 2011, 02:35 PM
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Me too immediately...and they were good at highway speed yesterday as well, I think I gained a little on my top-end and was cruising about 65-67mph without overdrive. The only regret I have is that I was too cheap the past 2 years to buy these sooner.
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  #93  
Old January 7th, 2011, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Mark,

If you have a 2 cm play in the steering and you're new to the vehicle I would highly suggest having a shop check out the steering and joints. I had quite a bit of play until yesterday when the trail arm fell out of the drop arm. The joints wear and rust over time and it can be very dangerous if they fail. Check separate thread.

------ Follow up post added January 5th, 2011 01:19 AM ------

I'm pretty sure there's only one version. Mine have white lettering on the inside and black on the outside. They ask you which you want during install and flip the tires depending on what you choose. I didn't want the white lettering so they installed them with letters facing inwards.
Thanks Carl !

That sounded dangerous.Did you manage to stop,without any damage ?

Its funny you should mention your drop arm problem.I think mine needs a new steering box.All the power fluid leaked out from the box down the shaft,from the nut.
Now,the steering was making a grinding noise upon turning the wheel,but only for the first few minutes of driving.This probably why i was having steering problems to begin with?It was only when the power steering went rigid,that i stopped & found her having a leak on the ground.
I reckon from what i have read,that the seals can be replaced.The original land rover seals are apparently crap.So,i was told to upgrade to 'Zeuss seals',which are heavy duty part rubber/steel.However,my mechanic said he needs specialized tools to replace the seals,because they have to be pressure tested upon fitting.I don't know if this is true or necessary??
I then asked my land rover dealer to replace the seals & they reclined stating they would only replace the steering box at a cost of 1200 euro !!!!! They said 450 for the box & the rest for four hours labour.
I priced an Adwest steering box new at 300 & i'm led to believe that it can be replaced in two hours.Somehow, i feel i shouldn't entrust a land rover dealer
Replacing the box looks straightforward,i heard much of the time( i.e two hours), involves removing the tight box.I would love to try it,but i haven't got a garage, or the rite tools.

My tires have the white lettering on the outside.I might downgrade & get the lightest tires available.I heard the lighter tire puts less strain on what is really a weakly designed power steering box for such a heavy jeep.

Or to cut a long story short, i should got a hilux

------ Follow up post added January 7th, 2011 08:43 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by george6 View Post
Thanks Carl !

That sounded dangerous.Did you manage to stop,without any damage ?

Its funny you should mention your drop arm problem.I think mine needs a new steering box.All the power fluid leaked out from the box down the shaft,from the nut.
Now,the steering was making a grinding noise upon turning the wheel,but only for the first few minutes of driving.This probably why i was having steering problems to begin with?It was only when the power steering went rigid,that i stopped & found her having a leak on the ground.
I reckon from what i have read,that the seals can be replaced.The original land rover seals are apparently crap.So,i was told to upgrade to 'Zeuss seals',which are heavy duty part rubber/steel.However,my mechanic said he needs specialized tools to replace the seals,because they have to be pressure tested upon fitting.I don't know if this is true or necessary??
I then asked my land rover dealer to replace the seals & they reclined stating they would only replace the steering box at a cost of 1200 euro !!!!! They said 450 for the box & the rest for four hours labour.
I priced an Adwest steering box new at 300 & i'm led to believe that it can be replaced in two hours.Somehow, i feel i shouldn't entrust a land rover dealer
Replacing the box looks straightforward,i heard much of the time( i.e two hours), involves removing the tight box.I would love to try it,but i haven't got a garage, or the rite tools.

My tires have the white lettering on the outside.I might downgrade & get the lightest tires available.I heard the lighter tire puts less strain on what is really a weakly designed power steering box for such a heavy jeep.

Or to cut a long story short, i should got a hilux
I forgot to add,replacing the seals in my case,won't fix the problem as mentioned above.As my steering is making a grinding noise,it is an indication that the whole steering box is worn.Whereas, in some cases replacing only the seals is satisfactory enough.
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