Driveshaft u-joint install - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 13th, 2006, 10:43 PM
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Driveshaft u-joint install

Sooo,

I go to replace my u-joint today and run into issues. I have replaced many a u-joint but with the LR ones left in my D-shaft I can't get them to budge. I pounded on these things for 20 minutes and can't get them to slide far enough out. The 9in side is no problem. Is there any secret to this? And while I am at it, who has the best/cheapest replacements?

And yes, I did remove all the retaining clips! Thanks.
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  #2  
Old March 13th, 2006, 11:54 PM
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Interesting, I just did both front and rear on mine this weekend. We did forget the retaining clips once, but that is the only thing that kep them from moving. We used a large bolt, socket and pressed them out and put the new ones in. Pressed one side out far enough to get it with a pair of channel locks, and remove the cap, and then used the socket to press the other side out. For someone that has done this, I guess I am not much help.

Anyways, I just went to napa and got my replacements there. I ordered some heavy duty spicers, but everyone was back-ordered. The napa part no. was 220-1100 for both ($21.95 each). Oddly they had given me some ones that were too large for the rear, but both my front and rears were the same.
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  #3  
Old March 14th, 2006, 12:23 AM
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Try heating up the yolks with a torch, it will expand it slightly and that will either let you get it out easier as well as let some penetrating oil work in.

Kolvedic: I've seen a couple different sizes referenced for the back ones, mine ended up being the same as the fronts as well. Precision #344 both front and rear.

-Hans
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  #4  
Old March 14th, 2006, 12:29 AM
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Thats what I was thinking. It's wierd, it almost looks like there is a small lip on the yoke that keeps the u-joint from coming any further out than flush with the yoke. Not far enough to get the thing out. It seems like they all have that. Bazaar. I am tempted to just plasma cut the u-joint out. SO how do you do this fix on a trail if you have to heat the yoke?
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  #5  
Old March 14th, 2006, 01:45 AM
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Honestly, I bashed the hell outta mine for about a half hour or so as well and also gave it a good soaking in wd-40, and it finally came out. I may have broken my thumb in the process on a missed swing while being dumb about how I was holding it, but it feels fine now. The heating would just make it easier, and a small propane/burnz-o-matic torch wouldn't take up too much room if it proves to be a recurring problem. Those torches would also help a lot with the rotors, which are equally hard to separate from the hubs after you unbolt it. You may also want to try touching some beeswax to the seam after heating and see if it will wick into there and act as a lubricant. I greased up the outside of the new cups before I put them in, which did help a bit on the installation. Hopefully it will also prevent any kind of corrosion bonding to the yolks.

I've also never experienced this anywhere else, only on my rear u-joints in the Defender......and I've changed a lot of them in the past as well. It makes me wonder if there is a metalurgical issue with the genuine LR parts or if the machining tolerances were too tight on the yolks. It shouldn't be this hard to do. The factory and dealerships wouldn't care, since they probably use hydraulic presses. But us guys stuck using the hammer and socket method definitely notice the difference.

-Hans
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  #6  
Old March 14th, 2006, 06:19 AM
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Did th dirve shaft binding?

If your running a lift OR longer shocks, the rear stock drive shafts will bind up on full drop.(both tires in the air) It bends over the metal so it smashes the bearing in place. It could cause slight damage to the end of the drive shaft or the input to the pinion which makes it a *%^$ to get it apart with out (*&^&^%$) up one or the other. I have only seen this on stock driveshafts or u joints that bind, or if you broke a shock and over extended.

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  #7  
Old March 14th, 2006, 07:50 AM
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Hey Bucky, I've had luck in the past just breaking the bearing cup with a chisel. It's not like you are going to use it again. The cup is pretty brittle.
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  #8  
Old March 14th, 2006, 07:59 AM
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I had to beat the piss out of mine once David and I actually bent the yoke. THis was on my series d-shaft. I heated them next time. that always seems to help all stuck parts for me..
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  #9  
Old March 14th, 2006, 08:02 AM
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EASY! Go down to the local Drive shaft place and have them do it! The place by me did 2 ujoints for the price I pay for U joints at the local auto parts store. Normally I get Precisions or whatever they have, but the Drive shaft place used Spic er! That's right 2 ujoints and the labor to do them for $40! Normally for the precisions at NAPA I pay $23 each! I saved six bucks and I didn't have to lift a finger other then taking the Shaft on and off.

Oh and if they have not been changed in a while you need to put the hole thing in a vice and beat the heck out of the Joint with a BIG hammer 4lbs should do.
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  #10  
Old March 14th, 2006, 05:30 PM
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344's here are 13$. My ds guy will not use them!!! He says they are of poor quality.
I just did the uj's on the d1 & had to put them in a vise [the vise holds the socket better than the hand]& smack the vise with a bfh to budge the oe uj's they are a pita!!!
I used spicer 4-5x they are 30$ each but will not have to move the truck to grease them as the zirk is external.
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  #11  
Old March 14th, 2006, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott 9835
If your running a lift OR longer shocks, the rear stock drive shafts will bind up on full drop.(both tires in the air) It bends over the metal so it smashes the bearing in place. It could cause slight damage to the end of the drive shaft or the input to the pinion which makes it a *%^$ to get it apart with out (*&^&^%$) up one or the other. I have only seen this on stock driveshafts or u joints that bind, or if you broke a shock and over extended.
WINNER WINNER WINNER!!!!

Even with the long d-shaft in the rear, it looks like I have enough downtravel in the rear to over-extend the angles. The end of the shaft deformed just a touch and made the holes oval just enough to stop the u-joint from coming out. I cut the u-joint out and filed down the upper lip of the shaft to add a little clearance. I don't think the damage is all that bad. Next time, I will pack a chisel with me and do like Rod said.

Bowtracer, whats the part number for the spicer part??
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  #12  
Old March 14th, 2006, 10:29 PM
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4-5x
They ain't cheap but are smooth. If you balance your shaft imho you should do!! Remove your drive flanges they should be balanced together & mark them
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  #13  
Old March 14th, 2006, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
4-5x
They ain't cheap but are smooth. If you balance your shaft imho you should do!! Remove your drive flanges they should be balanced together & mark them
Thanks, what do you mean exactly by balance my drive flanges? I just figured this out, I think you mean 5-4x.
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  #14  
Old March 15th, 2006, 12:00 PM
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YES, I am a knuckle head... 5-4x
Pull the flanges & assemble the shaft then balance the whole shot together.
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  #15  
Old March 15th, 2006, 12:25 PM
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Okay, thanks for your help!
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