Driveline "crunch" at highway speed - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old October 5th, 2014, 08:00 PM
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Chris deZ.
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Mine does the same, looking forward to your solution. Just curious, how much lift do you have?
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  #22  
Old October 5th, 2014, 08:20 PM
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I feel like one of my Defenders made this noise too, but I can't remember if it was my old one or my current one!

You didn't notice any metal flakes in your diff or transfer box fluids?
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  #23  
Old October 6th, 2014, 12:31 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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OK. Attached is the sound recording i took while driving on the highway. you might have to crank up the volume but the noise is quite audible. I generated the noise by jumping on and off the gas. There is a bit after 30 seconds where I was going up hill but after the 55 seconds or so, i was going down hill so it's quite noticeable.
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  #24  
Old October 6th, 2014, 12:54 AM
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second attempt on the upload...
Attached Files
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  #25  
Old October 6th, 2014, 04:55 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Before you get too crazy, check all your rear shock mount bolts. The noise travels badly when you have a loose one.
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  #26  
Old October 6th, 2014, 07:42 AM
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Daniel Smith
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I would try pulling the rear driveshaft, locking the center diff, and go for a drive. If the noise goes away, it's the rear shaft. I had a similar noise on my 110. Fixed it by installing a Tom Woods DC rear shaft.

Don't forget to put the nuts back on the rear T-case flange after you pull the shaft, you don't want to loose your parking brake drum.
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  #27  
Old October 6th, 2014, 09:36 AM
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Chris deZ.
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Sflash, my '95 SW makes the exact same sound. I have a driveline vibration that is likely a different issue, but I have that same driveline crunch.

Rover shop here in town called it "normal."
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  #28  
Old October 6th, 2014, 11:45 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Before you get too crazy, check all your rear shock mount bolts. The noise travels badly when you have a loose one.
Yup, thought the same thing and replaced all the hardware two weeks ago with new nyloc nuts and shocks.

I"ll remove the rear shaft next and see what happens then.

One other thing to consider.. This noise popped up after i rebuilt everything from my Rubicon trip. Everything went together well but the only piece that was curious to me was the rear axles. I installed GBR HD axles that run Land Rover flanges. They have the same setup as the front axles with the circlip on the end.. apperently this is the "new style" and is what comes on a truck from the factory today. Anyhow, unlike the front, there were no shims btw the circlip and the flange. There was a TON of movement of the flange on the axle. I would have needed like 20 shims to make that tight. I called GBR and asked about this and was told it's normal. Seems weird to me since I imagine an axle sliding around would cause increased wear but that's what I was told. Could this be the wrong information and could and could the rear axles cause this noise by seating too far into the rear diff?
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  #29  
Old October 6th, 2014, 01:46 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Another update. I had a long chat with Bill and GBR. Have to say, he's really great at customer service and always willing to help and answer your questions. Anyway, here's what he told me:

Grinding noises under neutral throttle are primarily caused by front driveshaft problems at the joint by the T-case. Even though my lift is only 2 inches, I went from 3.54 gears to 4.15 gears which has increased the speed of the drive shafts causing harmonic vibrations. The front geometry has barely changed since the rebuild. I swapped the front springs to OMEs and replaced the radius arm bushings which were pretty much crushed. He went on to say, that it's a misconception that it's the size of the lift that causes the binding. 80% of trucks with less than 3 inches will not have a problem. 20% of trucks with 1.5inches or more will have the problem when combined with other mods.

I don't know. I'm skeptical about it but it's worth a shot. Maybe, MAYBE the OME bushings were so crushed that putting new Polybushes on has lengthened the radius arms enough to barely increase the pinion angle and cause the binding? Seems my very next move is to drop the front shaft and drive it. Then drop the rear shaft and drive it. I posted the sound it's making.. does that sound like a drive shaft binding to anyone?
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  #30  
Old October 6th, 2014, 04:00 PM
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So, I have rear driveline related crunching and groaning on overrun. I just listened to your sound file and what I experience sounds nothing like what you are describing.

What you are experiencing seems to occur only when you hit the throttle. What I have occurs on overrun - totally different situation. Yours is a short "crunch". Mine is a long "grrrrrrrrrrrrrruuunnnkkkkkkkkkkkkKKKkKKk" sound that goes away whenever I am on the throttle.

So I take it back - I don't think rear pinion angle has anything to do with your situation.

Whatever it is, it sounds like it's due to something taking up slack in the drivetrain. No idea if the play in the axle is the issue. I'm sure that removing the rear driveshaft will help you diagnose.
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  #31  
Old October 6th, 2014, 07:04 PM
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I may have missed this, but have you driven it with either driveshaft disconnected to determine if it is the front or rear?
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  #32  
Old October 6th, 2014, 07:15 PM
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I have not. I did inspect the shafts and found the front to be on it's way out so it was replaced with a new one. Problem remains. I have not tried driving it with one removed to rule out front or rear. It will be the next thing I do when I get off work.
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  #33  
Old October 6th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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That'd be the next thing I would try. Just remove one and drive with the centre diff locked. If it still makes the noise reinstall one driveshaft and remove the other.
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  #34  
Old October 6th, 2014, 10:51 PM
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Ok. Front shaft removed. Took it for a drive. Problem remained. Sigh. Will do the rear tomorrow.
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  #35  
Old October 6th, 2014, 11:54 PM
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When you pull the rear shaft make sure the flange at the transfer case and the flange at the diff end are each tight. Each one has a large nut that should be ~120ft/lbs for the transfer side and ~90-100 for the diff end.
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  #36  
Old October 7th, 2014, 12:40 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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I'll check that tomorrow. I took a quick glance at things and the t-case side of things looked good. The diff side, the flange is a little notchy and squeaks when you turn it by hand. I'll have to double check the fluid level but it's up to the fill hole last I checked 50 miles ago when I filled it.

The rear shaft is off the car. I i inspected the shaft again and none of the joints have play in them. I'm pretty bummed as I doubt it's what's causing this. Seems like it's gonna be a diff or a t-case. When I was driving around with the front shaft off I was reminded of the tremendous amount of play in the case with the diff lock engaged. I noticed it first after driving the Rubicon. Shifting gears.. once the clutch comes up there is a huge clunk as the drive line loads up. I know "they all do that" to some degree but I can't help to think these two symptoms are linked. It's REALLY loud. I'll reinstall the front shaft tomorrow and take her out for a drive.
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  #37  
Old October 7th, 2014, 06:13 AM
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Where in New York are you? I've got chassis ears you can borrow if you're close to me.
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  #38  
Old October 7th, 2014, 09:42 AM
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I actually moved to San Fran. Haven't updated the profile yet but thank you for the offer
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  #39  
Old October 7th, 2014, 10:55 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Alright. Put the front back in and dropped the rear. The t case bangs like all hell when I shift gears but the noise is gone. There is still a vibration but there is no noise. So it's something in the rear. I still don't think it's the shaft. Could it be the output bearing on the back of the case?
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  #40  
Old October 8th, 2014, 08:19 AM
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Scott T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
I noticed it first after driving the Rubicon. Shifting gears.. once the clutch comes up there is a huge clunk as the drive line loads up. I know "they all do that" to some degree but I can't help to think these two symptoms are linked. It's REALLY loud. I'll reinstall the front shaft tomorrow and take her out for a drive.
Output Shaft/Input Gear Spline Wear Issue? Do you have a Cross drilled input gear in the T-Case? You can inspect pretty easily by pulling the PTO cover and looking in with a flashlight at the end of the output shaft/input gear union, its usually pretty obvious if that is the issue..

Some Photos from an Earlier post of what you are looking for..

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...02&postcount=2
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