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  #41  
Old October 31st, 2015, 12:17 AM
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Idiot savant, maybe! BTW - My advice for anyone who asks about suspension vs lockers: Always. Buy. Air Lockers. First. Always. You can have a totally blown, janky, rusted out suspension. It doesn't matter. Buy the freaking lockers first. Always. I wish somebody told me this first.

I did consider going back to a lower lift, but I'm pretty heavily invested in the lift with the front DC driveshaft and RTE radius arms

Some corrections: the a-arm ball joint axis to frame mount of a-arms is 22", not 27".

So updated numbers are:
2 * 22 * sin (36 degrees / 2) = 13.59"

13.59 - 8 = 5.59"

2*arcsin(5.59/(2*22)) = .255 rad = 14.6 deg.
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  #42  
Old November 11th, 2015, 12:11 PM
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Doing some CAD work to design the proper a-frame extension.
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  #43  
Old November 11th, 2015, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Doing some CAD work to design the proper a-frame extension.
Mmmhmmmm.....
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  #44  
Old November 11th, 2015, 12:17 PM
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The difference in length horizontally between the a-frame ball joint axis between two positions:

1. Where pinion is at 1 degree from horizontal

to

2. Where the pinion is angled at exactly the correct angle for a dual cardan shaft

is 1.1"

So the A-arm extension should have two bolt positions - one for single-cardan shafts, and another for dual cardan shafts.

Note that when the rear diff is pointed up for dual cardan shafts, the ball joint automatically rotates approximately 18 degrees downward, which means that a 14.6 degree downward rotation would cause the a-frame ball joint to have virtually no vertical travel.

So the second set of bolt holes for the DC position should allow for a shallower subtended angle. I may have to simply go DC rear shaft at this point.
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  #45  
Old November 11th, 2015, 01:26 PM
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now to play with the angles.
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  #46  
Old November 11th, 2015, 01:56 PM
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Sometimes Ed I think you are too smart for your own good....
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  #47  
Old November 11th, 2015, 02:16 PM
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Thanks Jonesy...I know that's a nice way of saying that if I was really smart, I should be buying this stuff off the shelf, hahah!

But then I have this 2.5" 1018 CRS steel square stock...half inch thick plates...and then I have to make sure the pinion angle is spot on...this lifting business is the pits.

It's a sickness.
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  #48  
Old November 11th, 2015, 02:30 PM
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Ed, you need to hurry! You don't want to be so old that when you finish figuring this out that you have to put side steps on her.
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  #49  
Old November 11th, 2015, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
...this lifting business is the pits.
Why so much lift to begin with? Is this a 110 or a 90?
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  #50  
Old November 11th, 2015, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
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Why so much lift to begin with? Is this a 110 or a 90?
It's a 90. Yes, I understand that lifting a 90 so tall is a totally crap idea and I deserve to burn in eternal misery. I also understand that it confounds any sort of reasonable logic, and that hairs will grow out of my palms. I understand that the most common opinion of my truck modifications usually result in random people on the internet insulting my intelligence, which I most reasonably deserve. Quite frankly, I don't know how I walk down the street without drooling on myself. One day I'll be able to tell my head from my behind. Eventually.

I think the lift started with an attempt to get more ground clearance for my truck. I achieved my goal, but really it came with a lot of complications. I will live my life as an example of what not to do in life. If you have children, point them to me and the ensuing fear of failure will result in ivy league admissions, 6 figure starting salaries, and lots of gifts to their parents.
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  #51  
Old November 11th, 2015, 03:13 PM
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A lot of lift for a 90. Why go for so much? I run with no lift. Much less chance of flipping the damn thing.
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  #52  
Old November 11th, 2015, 04:11 PM
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I think you're making this a whole lot harder than it needs to be. Pinion angle is not that hard to figure out. You don't need any complex math. Just an angle finder and the ability to eyeball some stuff.

Just bolt in the A-Arm extension to push the top of the diff back. Then put the angle finder on the drive shaft and on the bottom of the diff. Adjust your trailing arms until your pinion is ~2' lower than the drive shaft and Bob's your mothers brother.

You don't want to set it at 0' difference because when the drive shaft is under load it will tend to slightly lift your pinion. Therefore, having it slightly lower will allow it to be close to 0' under load and also allow the needle bearings to move enough to stay lubricated.
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  #53  
Old November 12th, 2015, 11:44 AM
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More idiocy on my part.

First set of holes drilled, will get under the truck and align these for standard driveshaft pinion angle tonight.

Tobias, good points. There will be some manual test fitting as verification and prior to welding, but I am an engineer and engineer everything. The pinion angle is not difficult to find out, certainly, but fixing the pinion angle is only one requirement of several:

1. Pinion angle must be correct for non-DC driveshafts.
2. Pinion angle must be correct for DC driveshafts with a second set of mounting holes.
3. The rear A-Frame ball joint must be placed at its middle of articulation when the suspension is loaded by about 2-3".

The confluence of these requirements is what requires thinking.

Great point about slightly dropping the pinion angle at rest to account for rise on acceleration.
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  #54  
Old November 12th, 2015, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
More idiocy on my part.

First set of holes drilled, will get under the truck and align these for standard driveshaft pinion angle tonight.

Tobias, good points. There will be some manual test fitting as verification and prior to welding, but I am an engineer and engineer everything. The pinion angle is not difficult to find out, certainly, but fixing the pinion angle is only one requirement of several:

1. Pinion angle must be correct for non-DC driveshafts.
2. Pinion angle must be correct for DC driveshafts with a second set of mounting holes.
3. The rear A-Frame ball joint must be placed at its middle of articulation when the suspension is loaded by about 2-3".

The confluence of these requirements is what requires thinking.

Great point about slightly dropping the pinion angle at rest to account for rise on acceleration.
That's a pretty piece of metal. I get the engineer engineering everything. We do what we do I guess. Similarly, I create spreadsheets for everything.

Why are you keeping a set of holes for the standard drive shaft? Are you planning to switch between standard and DC?
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  #55  
Old November 12th, 2015, 12:34 PM
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If you tilt the pinion way up for a DC shaft, won't the springs seats be on a big angle?
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  #56  
Old November 12th, 2015, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
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If you tilt the pinion way up for a DC shaft, won't the springs seats be on a big angle?
Yes they will. I've run wedges in the past but right now I'm just dealing with the springs being a little bowed.
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  #57  
Old November 12th, 2015, 01:55 PM
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Unless you are running a crazy lift (5in maybe), the A-frame can stay put and all you need to do to adjust the pinion angle is shim the trailing arms. RTE arms came with spacers for this purpose. Longer trailing arms, pinion goes down, shorter it goes up. If you can get the angle parallel it should be fine without the DC shaft.
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  #58  
Old November 13th, 2015, 12:38 PM
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So who in the NOVA crew want to pitch in and take Ed to a strip club? Might help with the over thinking
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  #59  
Old November 13th, 2015, 01:11 PM
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So who in the NOVA crew want to pitch in and take Ed to a strip club? Might help with the over thinking
He just needs to accept that he is not designing parts for a space ship he is designing them for a 30 year old british tractor.
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  #60  
Old November 15th, 2015, 09:20 PM
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4.603kg of CNC machined, cut and welded 1018 steel overengineering, ready for finishing.

I'm getting tired of working on this truck. One final addition will be m10 threaded holes front and rear for the addition of limit straps.
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