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  #1  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:14 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Drive line stuff... I.e. I'm starting soon

Ok, so I need a new tranny (1-2-3 are grinding, and the clutch is original ~150k miles...)

So, thoughts...

Ashcroft r380 for v8 with hd bits..
New output shaft (just because)
New clutch/flywheel/RMS

Advice bits ...

New LT230 with ATB?
Seems like a good thing, it's my DD and off road truck too

GBR double Cardin drive shafts F/R - again seems prudent..

ARB lockers with 4.3 gears (another trailer is in my future and I'm running a 1.2 lt230) - I consider a must do for off road but have been fine thus far...

I can't do it all at once so looking for some thoughts here one what's important
I'm east coast, it's a DD, and I am planning on longer trips once the dust settles on the livelihood thing (soon, hopefully... )

Other plans are, conning brewie into making me a mounting for a dual. ARB compressor for the engine bay, and a custom exhaust (modeled after the stock, one so 3 parts. Just refined and issues eliminated, with the tail pipe tucked up.. A bunch of rockware bits... (Yes, I see the light now, just need to know I can stuff the front bumper into a dirt berm without replacing fenders...)
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  #2  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:22 PM
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1-3 are grinding? Is the clutch master and slave in good condition? Anyway, LT230s are bombproof so I would not spend money on that if the one you have is ok. If it were me, new R380, new input on the lt230 (if not already upgraded), new RMS if you must (cross seals are usually the issue), but normally the flywheel is good so a new clutch kit with the good throw out bearing is sensible, new input (and output if they are leaking) seals on LT230 and call it a day. Why do you want double Cardon shafts? And 4.3? What lift/tires are you running?
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  #3  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:34 PM
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I vote for a ZF.


I got tired of shifting years ago...




.
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  #4  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:36 PM
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Drive line stuff... I.e. I'm starting soon

Good q's... Tires are 255/85-16, RMS has a slow leak so need to be done, clutch master has 5k miles, slave is original (ordered the wrong part, short story), I have a full clutch kit on the shelf and slave..
I do have a lot of drive line slack, cv's are good (original or replaced F/R as they start failing)
4.3 I'm thinking b/c of pulling a 1.5k lb trailer (I have 2 kids and thus need the rear seat for them)

Oh and lifted 2" with OME HD fronts and medium rears (no sways), putting on my overtyme rear's this weekend as well..
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  #5  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:04 PM
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Take it for what it is worth which is just my opinion, but the first thing I would do is replace the slave. I have never seen an r380 with all three 1-3 grind. IMHO that is likely a clutch disengaging issue, not a trans issue. Also, the RMS is not leaking, it is the cross seals. Do those two things before you start spending real money. Also clean out the PCV and breathers. As far as the DC shafts, well maybe you need them with 3in RTE but probably not (and query why OME Hd is not enough lift with 255 85r16). I guess 2in RTe rears would be ok and you would not need new shafts. 4.3s are really steep for 33in tires too. You would probably be happier with 4.1 if you do regear.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 11:11 PM
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Good advice... I'll do the slave this weekend and see..

Ideally I'd rather not do the tranny, but grinding is pronounced in 1-2 (indicates syncros) and occasionally in 2-3...

I'll consult on 4.3's but 4.1 may work as well I need to check, but I need to a) be a DD W/o trailer and b) be able to sustain normal speed of the hwy with/without a trailer..
For instance from NC to FL or NC out west
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  #7  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Take it for what it is worth which is just my opinion, but the first thing I would do is replace the slave. I have never seen an r380 with all three 1-3 grind. IMHO that is likely a clutch disengaging issue, not a trans issue. Also, the RMS is not leaking, it is the cross seals. Do those two things before you start spending real money. Also clean out the PCV and breathers. As far as the DC shafts, well maybe you need them with 3in RTE but probably not (and query why OME Hd is not enough lift with 255 85r16). I guess 2in RTe rears would be ok and you would not need new shafts. 4.3s are really steep for 33in tires too. You would probably be happier with 4.1 if you do regear.
Cross seals was one of the best things to do on my 3.9. (Clean the oil pan and pickup very well while in there). That and cleaning the PCV and breathers are great tips I took from your posts.

Agree on the slave - my NAS would grind 1-2 but 2-3 was smooth. When my slave needed replacing it was harder than normal to get into all of the gears.

My experience is that 255's are great with OME HD (or 2" lift). I feel going above a 2" lift starts bringing in issues and extra things to fix them. I don't think it's worth the hassle and expense. Like Red90 says - tire clearance doesn't depend on the amount of lift but on the length of the bump stops.

As far as gearing - 255's are pretty light and narrow and a healthy 3.9 should have plenty of power to turn them with 3.54's. But 4.1's will give it a snappier feel on the road and you'll be able to really creep off road. Agree the 4.3's will be too steep.
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  #8  
Old September 9th, 2016, 12:16 AM
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I will add if you are not running redline MTL or similar I would consider that as well. 2nd synchro is notorious for wearing out (because you have to shift it slow, not like a car) so it could be the trans. It is rarely fatal, mine drove with a bad second synchro for at least 35k (and however long before with the previous owner), and if you time it right it won't grind (good practice for the new box when you get it).
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  #9  
Old September 9th, 2016, 12:21 AM
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I'm going to channel Pedro here....

Duuude, I've been running redline for years and I'm fine shifting it (takes time.....) but my wife kills it and even though Ive put 80k on it still occasionally grinds in 1-3...
I'll do the slave and a good bleed on it and see
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  #10  
Old September 9th, 2016, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356 View Post
I'm going to channel Pedro here.... Duuude, I've been running redline for years and I'm fine shifting it (takes time.....) but my wife kills it and even though Ive put 80k on it still occasionally grinds in 1-3... I'll do the slave and a good bleed on it and see
Good luck. I figured (356 and all) but I write this stuff for the next guy reading it as much as the person asking.
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  #11  
Old September 9th, 2016, 02:44 AM
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With 33" tires a 4.1 R/P should pull like a 4.3 R/P would pull with 35" tires.... In fact the 4.3 R/P with 35s would still be geared about 1% lower (negligible-ish)

In each case you'd be looking at about 13% lower than stock... about 2600rpm at 70mph I have the GBR 4.43s and she revs pretty high (2900-3000rpm) on the highway, but my will-to-live/fear-of-death and TSL bias plys keep me around 65-69 mph. I wanted the crawl rate and am looking to go to 34s eventuall so I don't mind...and I'm used to driving with ear-pro on from point-A to point-B.

So if your family is going to be riding with you, you may want to consider the 4.1 as evilfj said... Or they may enjoy it less.

However, I never downshift out of 5th anymore. Ever... Really it's more like a 4 speed, because I never use 1st, and 5th is more like a 4.6th gear
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  #12  
Old September 9th, 2016, 02:57 AM
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You'll hate me but if the clutch only engages/disengages at the end of the pedal arc it's close to toast.

Vote here is to replace slave, replace clutch and reuse box with fresh fluid. You'll know quickly if you have the same changing issue or not.
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  #13  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:16 AM
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I'm going to do the slave and see, but since the clutch has 150k on it, and I don't want to RR the gearbox twice, I'm leaning towards keeping the lt230 stock, doing the tranny/clutch and 4.1 gears with lockers for now, I'll hold off on the driveshafts and the ATB lt 230, unless I determine they are needed. Oh and I'm going to do a full replacement of the u-joints in the shafts to see if that helps the drive line slop (here, I am concerned with windup causing metal fatigue/breakage)

My truck is pretty quite, and I Cruze at 70-75 on the highway and do take long trips so I need to balance out the gearing for on/off road, I don't want to be at 3k Rpms at Cruze with the 33's
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  #14  
Old September 9th, 2016, 08:47 PM
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I would go for 4:11's with that size tire if you are doing long highway trips. Even more so since you are in the south east.

Definitely no reason to replace the LT230. I've only seen them fail when they run out of fluid or when someone blows up the center diff. Upgrading to an LT230Q would be a relatively cheap option as used ones are inexpensive.
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Old September 9th, 2016, 08:57 PM
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The reasoning behind the lt230 switch was to gain ATB (Auto Torque Bias for searches in later years) in the center diff... Be a nice to have but I'm pushing it down the want list..

BTW, everyone Ashcroft has stopped making the Underdrive unit again (checked today)...
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  #16  
Old September 10th, 2016, 07:50 AM
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I've been running 33's on a dd NAS for 10+ years and wheel'd it pretty hard for years. The advice I got from Bill at gbr back in the day was 4.1's. Like Don said it gives you a peppier feel off the blocks. My Rpm's at 70 is about 2700. I too have MD springs and found a DC rear shaft gave me an annoying vibe, even with adjustable trailing arms. I tend to go through rear UJ's like candy with this set up but I suspect that is more due to the rear Detroit but IDK.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 08:29 AM
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I've been running 33's on a dd NAS for 10+ years and wheel'd it pretty hard for years. The advice I got from Bill at gbr back in the day was 4.1's. Like Don said it gives you a peppier feel off the blocks. My Rpm's at 70 is about 2700. I too have MD springs and found a DC rear shaft gave me an annoying vibe, even with adjustable trailing arms. I tend to go through rear UJ's like candy with this set up but I suspect that is more due to the rear Detroit but IDK.
How often and when brand U-joints?
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Old September 10th, 2016, 08:52 AM
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How often and when brand U-joints?
About 8-10K/each? GKN's the last two times. 10k may be normal for Rovers but compared to my 200k suburban on originals it hurts a little.
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  #19  
Old September 10th, 2016, 09:35 AM
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You should not use a DC in the rear with only one DC joint. It has parallel flanges and a single DC will cause vibration.
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  #20  
Old September 10th, 2016, 09:50 AM
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About 8-10K/each? GKN's the last two times. 10k may be normal for Rovers but compared to my 200k suburban on originals it hurts a little.
That definitely seems abnormal. Maybe try a Genuine U-joint next time and see if it lasts longer.
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