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  #1  
Old June 13th, 2004, 11:18 AM
redrover

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draglink

Had a great trip up to and above Holy Cross city this weekend. But destroyed my draglink in process. Does anyone have a preference on a beef draglink. I have found a few on computer but am unsure of their construction. Rockware says they sleeve theirs on origional? There is no way mine will straiten enough to fit in any dom tube. Would like to stick with origional balljoints. JP
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  #2  
Old June 13th, 2004, 11:42 AM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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I have a Rover Tracks link on mine. I don't think they sleeve there's as I still have my stock one sitting in the garage.
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Old June 13th, 2004, 06:32 PM
Doug_Paoletti
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Douglas P. Paoletti
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I believe RW does sleeve the originals but they typically do so on a core exchange basis, so the current condition of yours may not matter.
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  #4  
Old June 13th, 2004, 06:47 PM
tbmcneill

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FWIW, Yousef is correct. We don't sleeve ours .... all new material from the ground up including the chromo inserts.
T
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  #5  
Old June 14th, 2004, 02:30 AM
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evilfij
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Rovertym is nice. NO rust as it is stainless. (makes removal for allignment easier).

I CBed one i had. Sleeved it and drilled a hole for a zerk. Made it a cheap bastard Dan Bar (MJ lee makes theses)

Ron
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  #6  
Old June 14th, 2004, 11:08 AM
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We have a very strong steel drag link bar manufacturer here in The Uk called SUMO BARS. No guarding or sleeves required. Retail for Approx. 50.
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  #7  
Old June 14th, 2004, 05:36 PM
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Yesterday I installed the Rover Tracks HD Drag Link on my 110. It's all new (no re-use of old stuff), and it's also a little different than your stock or sleeved drag link. The threaded ends are chrome moly (which improves thread strength), and it uses jam nuts rather than the stock tube clamps. Since I just put it on, I don't know if there's any advantages or disadvantages to this but it does have a much cleaner look to it. A couple of issues you should be aware of on this link - 1. mine was too long (I cut off about 5/16" from each end to make it work. I need to talk to Troy about this - maybe it was just my truck) and 2. the jam nuts require a 1-1/4" wrench (my largest adjustable wrench wasn't big enough so I had to go out and buy a wrench). Otherwise, it definitely looks plenty strong.
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  #8  
Old June 14th, 2004, 07:38 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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Ryan, is your 110 lifted or not.
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  #9  
Old June 14th, 2004, 07:43 PM
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It probably has about a 2" lift. Are the RT drag links designed for a lot more lift than I have?
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  #10  
Old June 14th, 2004, 08:14 PM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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I have about 2-2.5" lift and there is plenty of thread left on each side. Keith did tell me that they were desinged for a lifted trucks. However, they worked on my truck perfectly from 2" up to 5" of lift.
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  #11  
Old June 15th, 2004, 02:33 PM
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Hmmm....not sure what went on with my truck. It's either just unusual or the normal Rover variation

Just thought of something that might affect it. If the steering drop arm is set up differently (i.e. different angular position for straight ahead), then that could affect the length of the drag link. But my stock link was working...I dunno Anyway, I'm happy with it now that it's installed.
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  #12  
Old June 18th, 2004, 01:12 PM
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As I've been tweaking in the adjustment of my drag link, I found an advantage to the RT design. The jam nuts and machined flats on the link make it really easy to adjust. You don't need to spread clamps or use a pipe wrench on the link.
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