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  #1  
Old May 22nd, 2011, 10:05 PM
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Pierre Jourda
1987 Defender 110
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Drag link position

My 110's drag link is always bent backwards, such that the balljoint bangs against the drop arm edge. It seems that it should be straight-ish up and down, but it never is. The first picture is what I think it should look like, while the second is what it how it actually sits all the time. I suspect that this may also be causing the constant disintegration of the ball joint boot. Is this normal? Is this b/c I stupidly put in a Bilstein damper?
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  #2  
Old May 24th, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Tony Sims
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Adjust the other end so they're both centered, should sort it. If the TRE's are in good shape, the steering damper won't push them over.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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  #3  
Old May 26th, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Pierre Jourda
1987 Defender 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS888 View Post
Adjust the other end so they're both centered, should sort it. If the TRE's are in good shape, the steering damper won't push them over.
Thanks, I'll try this
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  #4  
Old May 26th, 2011, 11:34 AM
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evilfij
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You need to replace or rebuild that drop arm ball joint ASAP as the boot is shot to hell!

Unsafe as it is.
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  #5  
Old May 26th, 2011, 03:38 PM
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kyle scheppler
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agreed..has nothing to do with the new damper, you need to thoroughly check that ball joint ASAP, that could be hanging on by a thread, almost looks like the rubber is holding it together..
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  #6  
Old May 26th, 2011, 04:39 PM
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Tony Sims
1984 110
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Let's not let the drama get away from us here. The drop arm ball joint rarely fails catastrophically, it just gets sloppy as hell and makes the steering loose.
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Quote:
[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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  #7  
Old May 26th, 2011, 07:47 PM
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Steve
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My boot just broke apart and I want to deal with it.. I've got a new drop arm that I'd like to throw in vs. doing the rebuild.. can I do this on level ground without removing a wheel, having to adjust the steering box, etc? Or am I deluding myself?
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  #8  
Old May 27th, 2011, 05:21 AM
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Tony Sims
1984 110
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If you're going to the effort of removing the drop arm (heat, BFH and an angle grinder highly recommended), might as well swap the the RRC/Disco version and be done with the ball joint for all time. TRE's are much easier to change.
__________________
Quote:
[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell
This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
Tony
1984 110 "Smokey" (sold)
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