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  #1  
Old June 17th, 2007, 12:32 AM
Dreamline
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Nate Keisling
94 D90 ST
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Door Tops

I took a quick look today at removing the entire door top (with the sliding windows) and didn't immediately see how they come off. After some of you get a hearty chuckle (because I'm sure it is a simple process) could you offer me some guidance on removing them? I couldn't find a thread on it.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old June 17th, 2007, 12:39 AM
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themaxx
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Ade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamline
I took a quick look today at removing the entire door top (with the sliding windows) and didn't immediately see how they come off. After some of you get a hearty chuckle (because I'm sure it is a simple process) could you offer me some guidance on removing them? I couldn't find a thread on it.

Thanks.
No worries mate, we all had to start somewhere! This should help...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Treuwer
If it's a yellow D, then he probably wants the door tops removed- I thought yellows were only in ST form.


Look up under the window from the inside, there are two nuts that hold the window on. I think it's a 10mm deep socket. Remove those and hit the top of the window frame up with a rubber mallet. Be careful not to damage the tracks the window slides in and it will take some "persuasion", particularly if it's the first time.
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  #3  
Old June 17th, 2007, 10:30 AM
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Donald McDowell
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once you get the door tops off, I recommend getting a set of the quick bolts..makes the job effortless and fast
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  #4  
Old June 17th, 2007, 05:45 PM
Dreamline
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Nate Keisling
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Tops

Ade/Don thanks for the tips.
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  #5  
Old June 17th, 2007, 06:54 PM
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Andy Radlgruber
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There are two bolts, one near the front and one near the rear of the window. They are 15mm deep sockets. The holes to access them are in the door liner/panel. The cheap black plastic thing that hide the metal door. The metal studs will probably be rusted so you may have to pry upwards a bit. There are also plastic sleeves in the holes that can be lightly filed out with a round file if need be. This makes the windows come off easier the next time. Soemtimes the nuts come off the studs and sometimes the studs come out of the window frames, either way having your windows out is sooooo nice. Until it rains.
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  #6  
Old September 26th, 2007, 11:01 AM
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Jonathan
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The post with the rubber mallet is the BEST! followed the advice and for the first time in 12 years she runs with no front windows! SWEET! thanks for the great advice
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  #7  
Old September 26th, 2007, 11:12 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Just be careful with the mallet if you have the door panels off - one errant strike and you're gonna have nasty dents on the outside of the door!
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  #8  
Old September 26th, 2007, 06:09 PM
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Peter Stolz
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Yeah, ask me how I know that. crap.
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  #9  
Old September 26th, 2007, 06:26 PM
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Dendy Jarrett
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Or try my trick. One light tap (and I do mean gentle tap) with a non-rubber hammer on the stud post to remove fuzed stud posts from the holes, ... and watch your glass explode into a bazzilion shattered bits.

Stupid tax.

Dendy
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  #10  
Old September 27th, 2007, 05:35 PM
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Andrew
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After you remove the windows you may want to invest in a pair of stainless steel window bolts to replace the rusty stock ones. Use some spray on break free lubricant down the bolts and let the window sit over night. The next day carefully use a pair of vise grips and turn out the bolts (to the left). Chase the threads, one word of caution when installing the stainless steel bolts, don't over tighten the bolts or you may snap one off at the threads, like I did. Patience is a virtue.

Good luck
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  #11  
Old September 27th, 2007, 08:02 PM
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Jonathan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Just be careful with the mallet if you have the door panels off - one errant strike and you're gonna have nasty dents on the outside of the door!
Jim, I'm not sure I understand what you mean???
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  #12  
Old September 27th, 2007, 08:23 PM
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Shawn Palmer
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He means that the back side of the door is there, so you can dent your door. It would be like taking a hammer and hitting your door, but from the inside. There is no other form of protection in there. The door skin is very thin aluminum and can be dented easily.
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  #13  
Old September 27th, 2007, 08:34 PM
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Jonathan
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No...I get that part. I had the panels off while doing some snooping around to figure it out. But, the post refers to hitting the top of the window frame. Not the door stud it self. Is it possible to dent the door while working the door top back and forth when removing? Thats the part I didn't catch.
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  #14  
Old September 27th, 2007, 08:41 PM
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Edward Hartman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBOD77
No...I get that part. I had the panels off while doing some snooping around to figure it out. But, the post refers to hitting the top of the window frame. Not the door stud it self. Is it possible to dent the door while working the door top back and forth when removing? Thats the part I didn't catch.
Yes, I used a screw driver to pry up a rusted stuck doortop. Now I have the bends in the door bottom to show where I pried.

Lesson learned the hard way.
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  #15  
Old June 26th, 2010, 01:17 PM
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Martin Spencer
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I have been beating on my door tops for 30 minutes, and have made no progress. Is there any other advice? I have the nuts removed, but am having no luck...
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  #16  
Old June 26th, 2010, 01:48 PM
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Kelby Saxton
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I had to take my door panels off, took my truck to a mechanic shop and used a small air hammer to push the studs up and out and in about 90 seconds they were out and no damage to the door skins. Fast, easy, and effective.
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  #17  
Old June 26th, 2010, 02:19 PM
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Joshua
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Dumb question: Do the studs only exit the door tops through the top of the capping (especially if the plastic sleeve is on)? In other words your air hammer method was to get them to exit through the top, right?
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  #18  
Old June 26th, 2010, 03:33 PM
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Kelby Saxton
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Yes it was to get the door top off the lower door. They only exit through the top of the capping. After the door top is removed, you can get a set of vise grips and unscrew the studs from the door top. The plastic sleevs came out with some of the studs and the others I had to push down through the door capping. Repaced with stainless and now it is problem free.
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  #19  
Old June 28th, 2010, 08:11 PM
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Jiman Khosravan
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So since you all mention replacing the bolts with better ones... anyone have links to these "Better" ones?
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  #20  
Old June 28th, 2010, 08:40 PM
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Martin Spencer
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atlantic british is where i ordered mine from last week. expensive, but worth it.
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That is why it is called a short cut. If it was easy it would just be "the way."
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