Door Top Bolt Oopsie - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 21st, 2014, 05:44 PM
rr1
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john
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Door Top Bolt Oopsie

OK...so there I was.....driving down the freeway....going 75....yes, 75 on a socal freeway (rare)....and all of a sudden my driver's side doortop loosened and starting flapping back and forth (front quick nut fastener came loose). I freaked because it was really wobbling, grabbed the window as it seemed like it was about to fall out and hit the nearest exit.

Upon further review the front nut was loose...but the real damage happened to the rear bolt - it was sheared in half... son of a $^%%#*!!!! The quick nut fastener has half of it embedded in it - and the door top has the other half nicely stuck in there.

Now what? Anybody run into this?

The only good news is it was 80 degrees when it happened.
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  #2  
Old January 21st, 2014, 06:02 PM
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Scott
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You can get it out, and replace the bolt. Someone offers or used to offer a stainless replacement.
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  #3  
Old January 21st, 2014, 06:12 PM
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Todd Kendrick
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Yep simple just replace the studs..........
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  #4  
Old January 21st, 2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr1 View Post
OK...so there I was.....driving down the freeway....going 75....yes, 75 on a socal freeway (rare)....and all of a sudden my driver's side doortop loosened and starting flapping back and forth (front quick nut fastener came loose). I freaked because it was really wobbling, grabbed the window as it seemed like it was about to fall out and hit the nearest exit.

Upon further review the front nut was loose...but the real damage happened to the rear bolt - it was sheared in half... son of a $^%%#*!!!! The quick nut fastener has half of it embedded in it - and the door top has the other half nicely stuck in there.

Now what? Anybody run into this?

The only good news is it was 80 degrees when it happened.

Hang on....we are sitting here on the East Coast - 8degs in Philly with 8" of snow - and you expect sympathy because you are doing 75 on a SOCAL fwy!!!! AND you lost your door top when it is 80deg?????? or PISS ORRRF!!!!!
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Old January 21st, 2014, 07:10 PM
rr1
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I'm definitely willing to try and remove the lodged bolt bits, but anybody ever done it without mangling the door top or my door? Is there a particular method for aluminum doors? I've never had to drill out a stuck/sheared bolt. Should be interesting.
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  #6  
Old January 21st, 2014, 07:19 PM
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William Skidmore
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So the stud is sheared flush with the surface of the door top? What ever you do spray and spray some more PB Blaster or that homebrew of acetone and tranny juice? Try using one of those drill bits that bite into a busted bolt or stud to unscrew the stud?
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  #7  
Old January 21st, 2014, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
So the stud is sheared flush with the surface of the door top? What ever you do spray and spray some more PB Blaster or that homebrew of acetone and tranny juice? Try using one of those drill bits that bite into a busted bolt or stud to unscrew the stud?

Bad steel in it...drill it out. OR Use a stud extractor with a wrench on the nut end or vice-grips.
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  #8  
Old January 21st, 2014, 07:41 PM
rr1
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john
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The main issue is it's flush (actually a little recessed) with the bottom of the door topper. I guess I'll be real careful and limit myself to 2 beers at the start.

The other end is sticking about 1/2 inch out of the quick release nut.
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  #9  
Old January 21st, 2014, 08:34 PM
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scott
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Send some pics if you can. Will be easier to send recommendations. Top and bottom of bolt. Some of us have battled quite a bit with these poorly designed doors - so should be able to give good advice with pics.
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  #10  
Old January 21st, 2014, 08:46 PM
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It's 14 degrees here. I suggest 1 kilogram of plastique.
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  #11  
Old January 21st, 2014, 09:00 PM
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Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rr1 View Post
The main issue is it's flush (actually a little recessed) with the bottom of the door topper. I guess I'll be real careful and limit myself to 2 beers at the start.

The other end is sticking about 1/2 inch out of the quick release nut.
Stand the door top onto it's top edge, pour in some PB blaster into the end of the stud hole..... leave a few hours, pour in some more...... leave a few hours..... repeat for a couple of days.

Then, get a centre pop & mark the exact centre of the end of the broken stud. Drill out with the correct size drill & hopefully using a 'easy out' the broken stud will wind out.

I prefer this type of stud extractor for small diameter use as it puts less expansion onto the broken stud that can make things harder for you if it's rusted in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25Pc-Screw-E...-/360680638989

Best of luck !
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  #12  
Old January 21st, 2014, 10:16 PM
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scott
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Another suggestion , if I understand your situation correctly, is to pb blast it a bunch as suggested and them try to tap the remaining half bolt down through the door to remove it. Once out Rovers north has cadmium plated stud replacements for a good price.

Edit: I think the bolt stuck in door top might also be your issue? Spot weld something to the visible part if the bolt and try to thread it out.
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  #13  
Old January 22nd, 2014, 12:24 PM
rr1
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john
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Thank you all for the suggestions (I'll PB it and drill baby, drill).

I have my 2 beers chilled and ready, but since it's only 65 degrees today I am going to have to postpone the fix until it warms up.

After all, you can't risk cold numb hands during this type of delicate operation.
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  #14  
Old January 22nd, 2014, 02:40 PM
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Watch those threads!!
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  #15  
Old January 22nd, 2014, 11:05 PM
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James Wallace
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One thing we use on aircraft all the time are reverse drill bits. Essentially they are drill bits that cut turning the opposite direction as regular drill bits. The advantage is if your drilling to use an easy out extractor, half the time the reverse drill gets the bolt turning out anyhow without the extractor as the cutting force is the same direction as removing the bolt. They are simply amazing, it is partially the heat and vibration that work for you. They are available from your friendly, albeit, pricey, Snap On guy.
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  #16  
Old January 22nd, 2014, 11:23 PM
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Zach
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+1 on the reverse drill bit, also called a left handed bit.
You could even use old standard bit and sharpen it so that the cutting edges are flipped. The flutes will still be the wrong way but shouldn't be too big of a deal for your situation
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