Door Sill (Carpet) Trim - D90 Wagon - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 25th, 2004, 08:54 PM
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Larry O'Hara
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Question Door Sill (Carpet) Trim - D90 Wagon

Does anyone have pictures and or the actual sills that mount at the carpet/door seals (ref picture). I know motosource sells diamond plate replacements. Never seen the originals. (I assume they corrode as I have not seen on other 90's either)

Completing interior update. Has someone fabricated? perhaps like OEM? Other solutions?

I thought I might find old for template. Perhaps fabricate in Alum and have anodized black.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old October 25th, 2004, 09:06 PM
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here is a photo I dont know if it will help, but then I am not really sure what you are looking for.
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  #3  
Old October 25th, 2004, 09:16 PM
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Larry O'Hara
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No trim there either. I was advised there was originally a pc that went to the carpet edge and covered the frame - something of a "finisher" like Motosource sells
http://www.motosource.com/prod_sills.html

Clean 90! Moreland cloth?
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  #4  
Old October 26th, 2004, 01:18 PM
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Wow. Is that air conditioning in Larry's Defender?
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  #5  
Old October 26th, 2004, 01:23 PM
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Yeah that's AC. I think the advice that you were given is wrong, my 90 hasnt been altered in anyway. I think that diamond plate stuff that motosource has is the same stuff AB has, but I am not certain. If I am not mistaken moto-source was providing the stainless bolt kits to AB as well.
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  #6  
Old October 26th, 2004, 01:59 PM
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Eric W. Siepmann
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My 97 doesn't have any trim peice over the carpet either. George @ RDS has that OEM Stock Galv. peice for 50 bucks or so. Or you could just regalv. the old ones and it should look a lot better if yours are as worn oas mine.
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  #7  
Old October 26th, 2004, 06:04 PM
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Larry O'Hara
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Well, thats the problem . . . I have none . . . Thats the frame underneath. I assumed there was originally been something there as there is a hole on each end as if for a screw or bolt.

If someone has an old one please let me know. Just want to make a template of what was original and to know what material they were made of.

Yes the AB kits are the Motosource ones. Already changing the bolts to stainless and hinges to alloy. The alloy kits are great. Have some pointers should anyone be interested before they order them.


Oh yes . . and that IS AC. Hey and it works. After I finish the interior, add new trim/seats and complete my modified GPS system, some might begin to call her an HSE.
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  #8  
Old October 26th, 2004, 07:48 PM
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Lets hear the pointers then either the ALpha or the Omega will add them to the FAQ at some point in the future
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  #9  
Old October 26th, 2004, 10:22 PM
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Larry O'Hara
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Post Door Hinge Kit Install on D-90

Well for starters they only ship 8 grommets (for the bolts) in the kit, which I understand is supposed to be a significant part of preventing the bolt heads from vibrating the paint off. Of course there are 16 bolts (8 short and 8 long).

Second, and I am certainly not knocking RN, but they advised the "clip nuts" in the bulkhead were only accessible if you pulled the dash. (I had obviously never removed them and there was no ref in the shop manual for same) I was advised most “cheat” and reuse the old bulkhead fittings that are already mounted “inside” and though it turns out that it did not really matter, they are a different pitch. Of course the “clip nuts” easily snap right to the bulk head once you remove the hinge they are easily accessible.

When mounting the clip or “fixed” nuts I used a string in the clip to prevent it from dropping down inside the bulkhead. Saves time – prevent you having to fish one back out as they can slip inside very easily)
Also you may have to tap (w/ hammer or put in vice) the clip closer to the nut on some as they fit too tight at some points (width) (did on mine anyway)

Third, they send (4) #MWC1898 (Rectangle) shims and (4) #BDC710040 (lager rounded on one side) Shims, which are the plastic “gaskets” to go between the door and the hinge itself. However, the #MWC1898 do not fit flush with the hinge edge and the #BDC710040 simply does a cleaner job for all mounting points.

Fourth, you may get a bolt are two that have bad torx heads (as did I) and then you don’t have enough to complete the job. Good to add a couple extra long/short just in case.

Fifth, you do not need to tighten the bolts very much (use a hand driver and not a ratchet) Its common sense not to “over tighten” the door bolts but, and of course it was my ignorance, but I stripped one “clip” nut in the when screwing to the bulkhead. Again you might get an extra as there are not a lot of threads in the clip or “fixed” nuts. Part#ASR1459

Six, you may are may not have enough paint. I did but it was close, however, I had ordered extra set (they send you one Land Rover Genuine set (1can color + 1can clear) with the kit - Which works very, very well by the way. The alpine white matched perfectly. (don’t forget a light but functional primer - Rustoleum make a good “clean” Primer that is white.)

Hinges can be easily replaced if you remove the door panels as the nuts can be reached through the window allow the door latch to hold the door in place. This allows you to remove and replace them one at a time without concern re door removal or alignment.


CLEANING: I used a product called Tarminator by Stoner – they have a great line of products http://www.moreshine.com - Tarminator is a grease/Tar remover spray that is safe on most painted surfaces (providing they are cured)
My D90 had some very tacky grease that had been put between the hinge gaskets and the body and there were gobs of it on the old clip nuts in the bulkhead. Without that stuff (or something like it) I would have never gotten it off. I then cleaned, polished with polish compound and waxed the area(s) before putting new hinges on. Tarminator works great on removing adhesive, stains, rust and cleaning paint of seals etc . . .
They have been selling an auto line for years - (more shine less time and invisible glass are great products they produce and are now available in many stores i.e. Sams and Advance Auto)


IMO, in addition to the kits you might consider adding
4 new mirror mount screws – as the old may be rusted behind the hinge.
8 more grommets #MRC1980 (to have enough for all bolts)
4 additional #BDC710040 shims (the ones that have the hinge curve on one side and fit flush) and discard the others (#MWC1898)
2 extra short and long bolts (M8 Torx) and even perhaps an extra 2 nyloc nuts (#NY108041L) in case of error and you have to remove.
1 or 2 extra clip or “fixed” nuts. Part#ASR1459
1 extra paint set - Land Rover Genuine set (1can color + 1can clear) does not hurt to have anyway
Add some door panel clips and snapsacks in case some break when you remove the door panels – they are only a few cents
If you want to be extra sure – you can add a cpl of #MWC9918LCS which are the grey (2 on each door panel) inner door fasteners which have a center core that expands clip like an anchor. I.E as of Disco rear bumpers.

All and all - Its only a few extra bucks but might be worth it.

Of course, for those in the know and have knowledge of these vehicles, this is needless detail. However, re past profession, I feel I am technically and mechanically experienced to a degree and I certainly could have used this data.
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  #10  
Old October 28th, 2004, 11:06 AM
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Larry O'Hara
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Question Re-Posting Question

Does anyone know if there was any trim originally at the door area.

I have been told yes and no as well as conflicting explanations as to detail about the orig trim

Note the hole(s) in the frame on either end in Phillips picture (one below the seat belt bracket)


If there never was it sure seems odd that just the edge of the carpet and the galv frame area is left open.


Also, I get a small amount of leakage at the bottom door seal. Anyone corrected or improved the seal?


The 110 parts book shows a seat base carpet "retainer" but it only looks to be as long as the seat base itself.


Also, are the bolts "through the carpet" at the seat bases on all wagons? Mine were originally but I have not bolted them back through as of yet (re door sill trim) and I noticed they were on Phillips picture.


Any assistance here would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers!
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  #11  
Old October 28th, 2004, 11:57 AM
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Mazen Fawaz
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I have the Motosource trim pieces installed....

email me for giant pics of my filthy truck..

mazen.fawaz@poweronecorp.com
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  #12  
Old October 28th, 2004, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimos
Well for starters they only ship 8 grommets (for the bolts) in the kit, which I understand is supposed to be a significant part of preventing the bolt heads from vibrating the paint off. Of course there are 16 bolts (8 short and 8 long).


Of course, for those in the know and have knowledge of these vehicles, this is needless detail. However, re past profession, I feel I am technically and mechanically experienced to a degree and I certainly could have used this data.
Thanks Larry! I'm sure this will come in handy for many of us who were contemplating this route! As for your question about the carpet. My D90 is 95SW and lacks carpeting in the area your interested in. The plank is bare metal. A friend of mine has a 95 ST and his too is bare.

Regards

DJ
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  #13  
Old October 28th, 2004, 02:54 PM
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Dave Souza
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I checked mine, which is a 95SW and it looks just like Philips, a galvanized piece, with the same 2 holes. I'm pretty sure this is how they all came. And my bolts go through the carpet on the seat box as well. So I think if you want something, Motosource trim might be the way to go.
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  #14  
Old October 28th, 2004, 03:24 PM
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James
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Hello,

I am quite sure there is no such thing as a finishing stip. That is how all Defenders are (pic of how mine is below)

I do agree that it dose not look great. i have had some aluminium strips made like the motosourse ones but not fitted them yet. i need i think to get a smaller bottom door seal so i can get them to fit.

Best regards

James
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  #15  
Old October 28th, 2004, 08:55 PM
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Larry O'Hara
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Thanks to all for the reply . . . I also nquired to East COast and they advised the same. Odd though seems unfinished, I mean with the holes and all.

I fear the Diamond plate will drag on my seals or it will be too close.

I believe I will make a template to fabricate in brushed aluminum and then Anodize black. Perhaps have the mounting bolts spotted on the rear to accept nuts from rear w/out the screw heads showing

If anyone knows of someone who does such work polease let me know.

Cheers
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