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  #1  
Old August 18th, 2010, 01:42 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Door Rot

So I have the typical bottom corner rusting on both my ST doors. Is this something to repair or is it better just to buy a pair of doors when they come up and repaint?

Once I do repair/replace it what is the best way to keep it from happening again?
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  #2  
Old August 18th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Separate the frame from the skin and galvanize the frame.

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  #3  
Old August 18th, 2010, 02:23 PM
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Long term solution seperate skin from door and have the frames galvanized.

Short term solution buy some proline series 3 doors.
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  #4  
Old August 18th, 2010, 04:39 PM
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Arthur Maravelis
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I heard once you separate the panels they can't be put back right.
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  #5  
Old August 18th, 2010, 04:42 PM
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I heard once you separate the panels they can't be put back right.
Nonsense. The frames tend to distort when you galvanized them, but it is not hard to put the skins back on.
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Old August 18th, 2010, 04:44 PM
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So is it the skins that are rusting or the frames? Or...ugh...both?
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  #7  
Old August 18th, 2010, 04:51 PM
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The frames rust and the skins corrode. If you don't have any holes in the skins, you can take them off the frame and paint the insides and clear out the corrosion and reuse them. The frames you can repair and then galvanize (or at least paint and waxoyl inside. By separating the frame from the skin you can get paint and sealer between the two to prevent the corrosion, or, of course, galvanizing the frame will prevent corrosion because zinc (the galvanized bit) is not galvanicly active with aluminium.
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Old August 18th, 2010, 04:57 PM
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Ya I have holes in the bottom of the door at the corner. I imagine I can repair them though. This should be an interesting job.

B
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  #9  
Old August 18th, 2010, 05:30 PM
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Is there a "how-to" to get the skin off the frame? Do I use heat?
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  #10  
Old August 18th, 2010, 05:37 PM
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Is there a "how-to" to get the skin off the frame? Do I use heat?

No heat needed. I use a flat bar (a type of pry bar) and work up the skin all the way around about a quarter of an inch. Then I move it more and more and switch to a 2x4 and hammer until I can slide the frame out the bottom. There are some rivets you have to drill out and depending on when the door was made, there may be some sealer between the frame and the door that needs to be pryed apart (heat might help, only seen sealer on roll up doors YMMV).

Pretty easy to do. Impossible to do without mesing up the skin a little around the edges.
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  #11  
Old August 18th, 2010, 10:26 PM
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mix 10-40 and a load of baking powder... pour it in the doors. Doesn't fix it but stops holes right now.
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  #12  
Old August 18th, 2010, 11:03 PM
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Besides RN and AB, anyone know where else I can get the repair channels for the bottom of the doors?
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Old August 18th, 2010, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Besides RN and AB, anyone know where else I can get the repair channels for the bottom of the doors?
Depending upon the age of your doors they will either be the early (series) or later (defender) profile. For my 83 I bought a total of 6 repair channels from Trevor (4) and Paddocks (2) to repair four doors.
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Old August 18th, 2010, 11:52 PM
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Rovahfarm has them? I didn't see it on his website. My doors are 1983 split doors so I guess they are the early series ones. Thanks for letting me know. I thought they would all be the same.
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  #15  
Old August 19th, 2010, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Rovahfarm has them? I didn't see it on his website. My doors are 1983 split doors so I guess they are the early series ones. Thanks for letting me know. I thought they would all be the same.
Yeah, Trevor's web site has a bunch of stuff not listed, but available via the search. At least he had 4 when I ordered some in mid-july. LR26 was the part #. Paddocks had the same stuff but the number was different, something like L2006. Look for series LR repair channels. I needed 1.25 channels per door.
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  #16  
Old August 19th, 2010, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Impossible to do without mesing up the skin a little around the edges.
Well, that's what I meant by not able to do it right.

Anyways, zinc and aluminum are not immune to corrosion, it's just not as bad as other combinations. I would go one step further and apply a modern day seam sealer between the frame and skin, offering another mechanical isolation layer. If you do this you don't even need galvanizing, except to stop rust on the frame - which can be done by other coatings.

Finally, corrosion only occurs where there is an electrolyte - water. So, get the water out by drilling more effective drain holes, doing something with the bottom door seal - that thing simply keeps water down there under the frame - and Waxoyl the thing to death.

So, who wants to repair two fronts for me? $$
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  #17  
Old August 19th, 2010, 05:09 PM
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There are body parts that Rover use to use (back in the day) a self adhesive thin closed cell foam type tape between the aluminum and steal... guess it got to expensive . Still trying to get some of the B posts on my 101
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