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  #1  
Old December 16th, 2004, 04:00 AM
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kevin
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DIY Cam replacement, who's done the job

I am looking to put a new cam and lifters etc. in my 3.5 carb V8. I have always done most of the work on my rovers in the past but I am thinking this will be my most ambitious project or hopefuly not. Any advice? I was going to replace it with a 3.9 cam. Can you recomend a better cam ie. Crane. How long should this take? What are some common problems with the job and what other parts should I replace while I am at it? Thanks for your help.

Kevin
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  #2  
Old December 16th, 2004, 08:09 AM
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I am putting in a Piper Cam from RPI hopefully this weekend. I also purchased new lifters and a new timing gear and chain from them. I would if you haven't already go ahead and take the heads out have them decked and replace the head gasket with a composite type.
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Old December 16th, 2004, 12:20 PM
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jim pendleton
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Better check the cam bearings when you have it apart. You ought to just pull it out.

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Old December 16th, 2004, 12:23 PM
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Hans Haase
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I'm supposed to do a cam swap on mine soon as well. From what I've read, the 3.9 cam will already be a nice boost over the 3.5 cam, and last much longer. You can also check out www.aluminumv8.com . he carries a lot of Rover compatible parts including camshafts. If you want to stick to the factory Rover parts, I have a brand new Rover 3.9 cam and lifters that I would happily exchange for a Crower cam and lifters. Don't forget a good double-roller timing chain if your budget can support it, the factory timing chain SUCKS.

I've done a couple in the past on other engines, so here is some tidbits for you.

1. Get the proper engine assembly lube, Moly-disomethingorother. ALL speed shops will have it. Use it liberally on all the cam lobes and bearing portions. Same with the lifters. This stuff lubricates it all until the engine oil gets up to pressure. Oh, and use regular detergent oil, no synthetics for an initial cam run.

2. Make sure to prime the oil system before starting. On a rover engine, that means opening up the oil pump and filling it with vaseline. On Chevy's and Ford's, I've taken out the distributor so that I could drive the oil pump directly before starting. I've also heard that you can disconnect the ignition coil and crank the engine a bit to do the same thing. Either way, you need to get all the oil passages filled up in the cam area. If you want, try to get an oil pressure gauge mounted somewhere to keep an eye on it.

3. You need to run the engine around 20 minutes to get the wear patterns set on the lifters. Some people use specific RPM/Time charts to do it, since you do need to vary the RPM as you go. (Make sure you have enough gas :-) )

4. Go easy on the engine for about a thousand miles to let it break-in.

5. Get a buddy to be there when you start it up. While you/he runs the throttle, the other can keep an eye for leaks and problems as they occur. As soon as it turns over, check the timing IMMEDIATELY. Then, watch the oil level, coolent level and everything until you are satisfied there are no problems.

-Hans
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Old December 16th, 2004, 01:21 PM
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Jan-Dirk Roodbol
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check the oil pump gears as well
how are the timing gears and chain? and the rocker shafts?
I did replaced all in about a week
3.9 RPI cam and double roller chain .
by assembling a new rockershaft; take great care how to assemble it, this to align to oilways.

check after all the carbs settings.

An other thing, now that you are planning to sit in front/ under your car; how are your crankshaft bearings? Mine were dead as well, so running 6 months with the new cam I heard by climbing up hill a "soft machine gun" under my bonnet.

good luck.

Jan-Dirk
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Old December 17th, 2004, 12:04 AM
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Robert Dassler
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Kevin,
I used a Crane cam in the last 4.6 swap that I did. You will also want to replace the lifters and timing set. I got all my stuff mail order from Summit Racing. I think the cam was $150-200 ish and the double roller timing set was about $70 and the lifters were about $80 or so. They don't list these parts in their catalog but they had everything in stock. You don't have to pull the heads to do the job but you're going to be in pretty deep, so if the head gaskets are seeping or marginal it would be an excellent time to upgrade. Also, depending on how aggressive a cam you get, there may be additional machine work either recommended or required for the heads. In our case the cam manufacturer recommended upgrading to dual valve springs which necessitated some additional machine work and changing the valve seals, spring seats and keepers. A stock 3.9 or 4.2 cam should not require these changes.
Rob
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Old December 17th, 2004, 12:37 AM
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Thanks to all for the info. I think I will go with the 3.9 cam. I am not looking for a hot rod and think I would notice a differance with the 3.9. I also dont want to lose too much low end torque. Now I need to wait for my tax return after the new year and have at it then.
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