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  #61  
Old February 3rd, 2010, 08:21 PM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37 View Post
you got me im the cry baby on the forum... so sorry your truck isnt idling perfectly..
HAHA, classic John. Barry, did that spider ever stop making its home on the 110? I remember how much of a headache that was for you.
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  #62  
Old February 3rd, 2010, 08:36 PM
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barry f
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So I just drove home and my truck is back to the almost stalling again at lights. The RPM drop to 100 and kick back up. What is with this thing? Could it be the stepper motor or ECU? I think I am going to buy a new stepper and see.
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  #63  
Old February 3rd, 2010, 08:54 PM
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Barry,

I think that you need to start taking more ownership over the work done on your truck. If you can't perform the diagnostics, so be it, take it to a shop and make sure that they do what you are asking. Did you read Pendy's post? Did you get any of those tests done? Just dropping it somewhere and complaining until they fix it isn't going to get you very far.
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  #64  
Old February 3rd, 2010, 09:25 PM
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barry f
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First off I do take ownership of the issues and do do things myself. As a responsible owner I know what I can do and can't do. It has gone to two of the biggest shops in LA. Both work on defender non stop. The problem is this used to happen rarely. Now it seems to happen when I am not at a shop. Base idle is correct but the stepper seems to want it to stall. I bought a genric stepper and will try that. The ignition module it is not. When that goes it would not restart as quickly.
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  #65  
Old February 3rd, 2010, 10:01 PM
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James Brown
91 & 2000-110 -93 130 wagon, 88 d90
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My truck is doing the exact same thing. I drove from Colorado to Texas and half way started to stall after starting and would die if I didn't keep on the gas at stop lights. Then while driving at 60mph it just shut off, no sputtering..just dead, would not start. Changed the fuel pump relays, ran perfect for a day..the next morning would not start...got it started..died when I took my foot off the gas.

Got it to the shop. They say not the fuel pump, not the relays, not the ecu, reset the timing etc....now drives fine except when at idle it sits at 1800, now they say it's the stepper motor???

Will be replacing it tomorrow hope this does the trick! But I have a bad feeling now that the dying may happen again.
Any advice would be great.
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  #66  
Old February 3rd, 2010, 11:21 PM
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john
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Barry,

I think that you need to start taking more ownership over the work done on your truck. If you can't perform the diagnostics, so be it, take it to a shop and make sure that they do what you are asking. Did you read Pendy's post? Did you get any of those tests done? Just dropping it somewhere and complaining until they fix it isn't going to get you very far.
Yeah tell him Chris! Barry your letting your children be raised by nannies. You should be ashamed.
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  #67  
Old February 4th, 2010, 01:30 AM
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barry f
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I am not going to take advice from someone with carpet in a soft top.

Anyway back to my issue. I went and bought a generic stepper for 28 bucks using the part numbers found on the board. The silver one in the first picture next to the one out of my 90. The 90 was angry. The truck literally wouldn't run. I then took the stepper out of the 110 (odd it looks different) an put it in. Seems to run okay. I drove around the block and it is ok. Will drive tomorrow and give a full report.

Anyone know why the stepper is different in the 93 vs 94? 93 doesn't have the spring.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #68  
Old February 4th, 2010, 09:34 AM
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Chris Davis
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A lot of us have removed the spring. There are some posts regarding that, but, AFAIK, the spring doesn't do anything useful. I removed the spring many moons ago, maybe 5 or 6 years ago, when cleaning it.

To me all your idle symptoms scream stepper motor. Good luck--let us know how it goes!
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  #69  
Old February 4th, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Neil McCauley
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This may or may not be your problem but I had a stalling issue that turned out to be a bad harness to the fuel pump. It was the white four prong harness that is located over the right rear wheel well. Upon inspection I could see that either water or movement caused the connectors to rust/burn up, you couldn't really see it from the outside but when you took the connectors apart it was pretty obvious. Another reason to check vital harnesses that are exposed to dust and dirt/water
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  #70  
Old February 4th, 2010, 12:56 PM
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barry f
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yeah this is driving me nuts. will drive it for a bit with the extra stepper i have.

------ Follow up post added February 4th, 2010 10:14 AM ------

Horsey

Whats worse me being pissed about spiders living in my 110 or you staring out your window at my 110 wishing you had a place for a spiderweb other than your balls.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #71  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:08 PM
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Sterling M Archer
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I just replaced my idle air valve with one from Advanced Auto Parts. They said it was made by Borg Warner (not sure if is is the same as RR Borg Warner) Anyhow it is part number 21738. Be sure to disconnect your battery and follow the directions for Buick that come with the new part precisely.
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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  #72  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:11 PM
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barry f
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Why disconnect the battery? I thought you just pulled it out and put the new one in?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #73  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:17 PM
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Sterling M Archer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Why disconnect the battery? I thought you just pulled it out and put the new one in?
Because it is what the Necronomicon said to do!
This is the third time in 12 years of Defender ownership I have had to replace one. The new directions say nothing about the battery, but I remember from directions past it said to. It may be for the '97s, but can't hurt...
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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  #74  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:21 PM
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barry f
94 ST #395
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We dont have advanced auto parts here
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #75  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:37 PM
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Sterling M Archer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
We dont have advanced auto parts here
Take your old one into any parts shop and tell them it is for a GM car and they will match it up for you.
BUT DO NOT TELL THEM IT IS FOR A LAND ROVER! If you do they will piss them self's in fear and confusion. at least that is my experience with part store chains
it is a common part
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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  #76  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:45 PM
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barry f
94 ST #395
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I know that is what happened with me. Did you look at the pic of the replacement they gave me?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #77  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:54 PM
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Sterling M Archer
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Yea, this one I just got is the closest OEM I have found yet. I bet you could order one from Advanced and they could mail it to you. The one in your pic looks a little different.
here is a link, and believe it or not mine looks better than the stock photo they show on their site
click here---> BWD Idle Air Control Valve
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1995 NAS Defender 90 AA Yellow #2986: Current
2009 Range Rover Supercharged Black/Black: Current

1993 NAS Defender 110 #375/500: Sold
1995 NAS Defender 90 Soft Top Beluga Black #2556: Sold
1991 Range Rover Hunter Green: Sold
1997 NAS Defender 90 Station Wagon Portofino Red #128: Sold
1993 NAS Defender 110 Beluga Black #215/500: sold
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  #78  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:57 PM
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Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
So I took my truck to the shop I normally use (Four Oaks) as I needed to have my brakes done and don't want to go back to the original shop. They said that I still have the ignition module in the original spot but if there was a problem it would take much longer to restart on the few times it has stalled. They did say that my base idle was set too high and they readjusted it and think it is fixed.

On another note they told me the bolts to my rear drive shaft were loose and rattling. This really pisses me off. The first shop did my 60k service and had the truck in three times for a total of at least a week and drove it for 50 miles and never said anything about it. I noticed the rattle when I picked it up but was sick of going back.

OK rant over.

Ignition module.
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  #79  
Old February 4th, 2010, 02:58 PM
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barry f
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You think it is that? I was going to get a new one but not relocate it. Roverguy has them for 47 bucks
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #80  
Old February 4th, 2010, 03:04 PM
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youve done everything else why not throw more parts at it.
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