Dislocation cones and OME Heavy spring issues - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 11th, 2016, 03:21 PM
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Dislocation cones and OME Heavy spring issues

I have a set of dislocation cones from the Extreme Evolution kit. Extreme 4x4 Ltd EVOLUTION KITS
All excited to get the components fit while I am reassembling my project, I have run into a snag.

I have OME 513 springs in front, which are rated heavy load ( I have a heavy bumper and winch) and these give a 2" lift. With the heavier springs, they are made of a thicker material, which in turn reduces the actual centre space of the coil, when I went to put in the dislocation cones, they only sit 3/4 of the way down into the spring due to the smaller diameter space.

Options?

• replace the 1 year old springs that work GREAT and give me the height and ride I want
• have cones made with a smaller diameter (yikes! $$$)
• is there a front cone available that has a slightly smaller diameter than the standard?

the ring is showing how far I can get the cone into the spring.. about 3/4 of the way, so it's not going to work.

Any ideas???
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  #2  
Old February 11th, 2016, 03:45 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Do those shocks have enough travel to be able to utilize cones? I'm not aware of any cones that have a smaller diameter. You may want to experiment with retaining your springs and see how much, if any, travel you lose.


On a side note, where did you get those retaining rings with the really long studs?
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Old February 11th, 2016, 03:52 PM
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The kit comes with new shock turrets that are 2" lower, so less travel up top, but adding 2" on the bottom.

The new ring on there with the longer studs is from Allmakes, I think it's the TF502. Definitely more stud there compared to the stock RNJ500010
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Old February 11th, 2016, 04:00 PM
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Another option could be a spring isolator from a Disco... if it fits in the spring.... it could help relocate the spring I guess... Steel would work better though.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Another option could be a spring isolator from a Disco... if it fits in the spring.... it could help relocate the spring I guess... Steel would work better though.
Those won't work, not as a cone anyway. The rubber isn't rigid enough to relocate the spring, the spring will just bend the rubber.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 05:13 PM
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Yeah, I was thinking the same.... just throwing it out there....
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Old February 11th, 2016, 05:27 PM
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I've never seen a front spring unseat off road. Is that common?
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  #8  
Old February 11th, 2016, 05:35 PM
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I have never a spring dislocate on the front but lots on the rear, so much on the rear that er indoors is pretty good with the high lift and a crowbar
Do you really need them?...
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  #9  
Old February 11th, 2016, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I've never seen a front spring unseat off road. Is that common?
I've had it happen...Not a big deal, shock stopped it from going too far
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  #10  
Old February 11th, 2016, 05:50 PM
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Once you take 2" off the top of the travel and add it to the bottom, the spring will drop out with out a huge effort. Only comes out an inch or a bit more, I'll be retaining it at the bottom, but it's best to have some sort of a guide to ensure it re-seats correctly. No where near the extent of the rears though.
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  #11  
Old February 11th, 2016, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Once you take 2" off the top of the travel and add it to the bottom, the spring will drop out with out a huge effort. Only comes out an inch or a bit more, I'll be retaining it at the bottom, but it's best to have some sort of a guide to ensure it re-seats correctly. No where near the extent of the rears though.
I've seen that loads of times in the rear, just never the front. I didn't think the radius arms would even allow that much flex. Look at the front of those trucks compared to the rear.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I've seen that loads of times in the rear, just never the front. I didn't think the radius arms would even allow that much flex. Look at the front of those trucks compared to the rear.
With the red truck, the rear is obviously taking the load and dropping on the right. We can't see how much (or if) the front is dropping on the left. On the right it's upward force.

The green truck, we can't see the front wheels.

I was surprised that without the front shocks attached, how little I needed to lift the front end (by the frame) to have the springs unseat.

I look at it this way, rather have the cones and not use them, than not have them and be constantly having to re-seat my springs.
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  #13  
Old February 11th, 2016, 10:31 PM
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Fronts dislocate when articulating, especially when running longer shocks.

I run ome landcruiser shocks up front and experience it. I use stainless hose clamps to retain my springs, but quite honestly i would prefer a cone.

Not sure why your cones are so incredibly close in od to the inner diameter of the stock spring. That seems like a bad decision on the part of the designers.

Have you though about just hammering in the upper part of the cone? You could probably reduce the diameter sufficiently with some hammering.
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Old February 11th, 2016, 11:06 PM
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Scott, I will try to explain this as best I can. There are two kinds of front inverted cones, interior and exterior.

There is the kind you install from above the spring seat and slide down into the hole. There is ALSO the kind that you press up from underneath that goes on the outside of the lip. If you source the style that goes on the inside from the top, I think you'll be in luck.
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Old February 12th, 2016, 12:53 AM
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Fronts dislocated.


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Old February 12th, 2016, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Scott, I will try to explain this as best I can. There are two kinds of front inverted cones, interior and exterior.

There is the kind you install from above the spring seat and slide down into the hole. There is ALSO the kind that you press up from underneath that goes on the outside of the lip. If you source the style that goes on the inside from the top, I think you'll be in luck.
Zack, I know exactly what you mean with the 2 different types, only ones I have been able to find so far are the bottom mount type.

Possibly these Front Dislocation Cones for Defender, Discovery 1 and Range Rover Classic models

Just looking at the scale (width of ring compared with the diameter) they mat be the top mount. I'm going to contact them and see if I hear back.

Problem being none of the parts listings anywhere specify top or bottom mount, tough to tell just by looking at the pages.
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Old February 12th, 2016, 08:14 AM
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We've had the style that slides in from the top, but they started sending us the style that goes from the bottom. I'll check Monday to see what we have now
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Old February 12th, 2016, 11:06 AM
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That would be appreciated Zack! I need to get this sorted pretty quick.
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Old February 12th, 2016, 05:02 PM
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Scott,
Thought you were a Gwyn Lewis fan? One nice touch with theirs is that you can poke a bar through the spring and relocation hook when jacking. No need for the droop straps.
You could call them and ask if they fir the ID of your spring.
Depends what you are doing over the next little while, but if you really need them maybe you can lose a bit of diameter by slitting the cone, cutting out the top weld, welding the seam and welding the cone to the top?
This is not just directed at you Scott its a general question (and I may be way off here) but why would anyone want their axle dangling like that, particularly on the front? Would seem that a longer spring, which may need to be lighter duty or progressive, to maintain you ride height under compression and keep your suspension under control.
Eric.
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  #20  
Old February 14th, 2016, 07:12 PM
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timely thread.. i was going to order a set of TF501's to go with OME HD front springs and +2 fox shocks...

will these have the same problem.. (i think so)
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