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Old September 11th, 2010, 04:39 PM
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Disintegrated Bushings

My 97 D90 lived up north for a couple years with a previous owner. As a result (I'm assuming) some of the bushings have turned to goo. Some are almost like tar and not providing any cushion. After taking it off-road - nothing serious, just in Florida - one time I could feel the difference in the ride. Taking it off-road basically disintegrated a couple bushings. With my first D90 bushings were never an issue as it was a warm weather truck its whole life. I just feel like the truck doesn't drive as tightly as it used to. I know - ha ha - what do I expect right? Well if I can improve it a bit I'll try - I'm not trying to make it feel like I'm driving a Bentley.

I'm assuming the front sway bar would be relatively straightforward in replacing the bushings correct?

However the bushing in the back (see pic) looks like it will be a pain - if not impossible - for anyone but a shop to handle. That being said is the rear one a bushing or just there to keep dirt and grime away? Even is this were feasible is this the culprit? Seems like it handles a crap-load of pressure so I can't imaging there is a lot motion here that would make the ride feel less tight.

Note: in putting new springs/shocks on I accidentally snapped off the rear sway bar. Since then I've needed to put a new skidplate back there so I CAN put the rear sway bar back on. I didn't use my rear sway bar on my last truck but if it makes the ride firmer then I'm game. I so rarely head off the pavement - just to work and back.

Hutch
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  #2  
Old September 11th, 2010, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch View Post
My 97 D90 lived up north for a couple years with a previous owner. As a result (I'm assuming) some of the bushings have turned to goo. Some are almost like tar and not providing any cushion. After taking it off-road - nothing serious, just in Florida - one time I could feel the difference in the ride. Taking it off-road basically disintegrated a couple bushings. With my first D90 bushings were never an issue as it was a warm weather truck its whole life. I just feel like the truck doesn't drive as tightly as it used to. I know - ha ha - what do I expect right? Well if I can improve it a bit I'll try - I'm not trying to make it feel like I'm driving a Bentley.

I'm assuming the front sway bar would be relatively straightforward in replacing the bushings correct?

However the bushing in the back (see pic) looks like it will be a pain - if not impossible - for anyone but a shop to handle. That being said is the rear one a bushing or just there to keep dirt and grime away? Even is this were feasible is this the culprit? Seems like it handles a crap-load of pressure so I can't imaging there is a lot motion here that would make the ride feel less tight.

Note: in putting new springs/shocks on I accidentally snapped off the rear sway bar. Since then I've needed to put a new skidplate back there so I CAN put the rear sway bar back on. I didn't use my rear sway bar on my last truck but if it makes the ride firmer then I'm game. I so rarely head off the pavement - just to work and back.

Hutch
I don't have any first hand experience with the front bushings, shouldn't be too bad.

You don't want the rear ball joint failing on you. I takes a lot of load from the rear axel.
I did replace my rear ball joint in the "A" frame. It's a SOB to replace. Remove the fulcrum block that houses the ball joint. There are 2 long bolts that fasten it to the "A" frame bars. Odds are, if your truck spent time up north, they are rusted solid. If so, pull the entire "A" frame out. Soak the rear ball joint in BP Blaster, Liquid Wrench or the like, and have an automotive machine shop press it out, and press the new ball joint in. It needs to be pressed in "square", you don't want it to get kinked. Shouldn't cost too much. I paid $30 Also, put plenty of antisieze. You may want to replace all the bushings on the "A" frame since it's out.

Good luck...

Cheers...
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  #3  
Old September 11th, 2010, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
I don't have any first hand experience with the front bushings, shouldn't be too bad.

You don't want the rear ball joint failing on you. I takes a lot of load from the rear axel.
I did replace my rear ball joint in the "A" frame. It's a SOB to replace. Remove the fulcrum block that houses the ball joint. There are 2 long bolts that fasten it to the "A" frame bars. Odds are, if your truck spent time up north, they are rusted solid. If so, pull the entire "A" frame out. Soak the rear ball joint in BP Blaster, Liquid Wrench or the like, and have an automotive machine shop press it out, and press the new ball joint in. It needs to be pressed in "square", you don't want it to get kinked. Shouldn't cost too much. I paid $30 Also, put plenty of antisieze. You may want to replace all the bushings on the "A" frame since it's out.

Good luck...

Cheers...
Sounds like I should go for the front sway bars way before I embark on the A-Frame. I'm not up for a massive project. (I already have a brake project in queue!)

Does it ever end? Do I want it to?
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Old September 11th, 2010, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch View Post
Sounds like I should go for the front sway bars way before I embark on the A-Frame. I'm not up for a massive project. (I already have a brake project in queue!)

Does it ever end? Do I want it to?
Your rear ball joint is on it way out. With the boot torn, water will work it's way in...I wouldn't let it go for too long. It's not an expensive part, genuine is only like 50-60 bux.

Does it ever end...well things don't last forever...look at it this way...it keep LR ownership interesting

Cheers...
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Old September 12th, 2010, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Your rear ball joint is on it way out. With the boot torn, water will work it's way in...I wouldn't let it go for too long. It's not an expensive part, genuine is only like 50-60 bux.
What is the range of costs involved if I take it to a shop? I can do shocks, springs, change fluids, etc, but I don't think I'm up to dealing with this one! Am I looking at having a shop spend a few hours on something like this or a few days....?

I've got a laundry list of items I'd like to tackle and it might be nice to have them all done at once.
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Old September 13th, 2010, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch View Post
What is the range of costs involved if I take it to a shop? I can do shocks, springs, change fluids, etc, but I don't think I'm up to dealing with this one! Am I looking at having a shop spend a few hours on something like this or a few days....?

I've got a laundry list of items I'd like to tackle and it might be nice to have them all done at once.
Few hours...about $30
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Old September 13th, 2010, 11:49 PM
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30 dollars? Even 300 only buys you maybe half a day of labor. Anything that involves a "laundry list" is going to add up. Bushings and the rear ball are a pain to replace, just because you're working with heavy parts, rusted bolts, and limited access - but its all straight forward work. There are few better things to learn on since these things don't require much finesse. Spend a few bucks on the right-sized wrenches etc, find a machine shop that will do some pressing for you and do it all yourself. You might spend an entire day on that ball joint, but you will have done it yourself and become that much closer to your truck. Just make sure you tighten the big nut all the way.

The other bushings you can do as time allows, here and there.

BTW - that roll bar bushing looks wierd - like it melted. I've seen ones that hardened and cracked but yours looks like it melted.
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Old September 15th, 2010, 08:24 AM
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Yes, $30 for pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in the new only...the rest done me...

Cheers...
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