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  #21  
Old March 1st, 2014, 08:03 AM
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If you need to remove the 3-bolt flange heat is your friend. The loctite used on them (601) is meant to be heated to 250c for removal.
You can use a slide hammer on them. You can also make your own puller like shown here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/47742463/3...Flange-Removal
Drilling and threading for a larger bolt surely wouldn't hurt. Some people have broken the 8mm bolt trying to remove them, though I don't know what class bolt they were using.
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  #22  
Old March 1st, 2014, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Some people have broken the 8mm bolt trying to remove them, though I don't know what class bolt they were using.
The factory tool breaks all the time, but the stud is replaceable.
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  #23  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
If you need to remove the 3-bolt flange heat is your friend. The loctite used on them (601) is meant to be heated to 250c for removal. You can use a slide hammer on them. You can also make your own puller like shown here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/47742463/3...Flange-Removal Drilling and threading for a larger bolt surely wouldn't hurt. Some people have broken the 8mm bolt trying to remove them, though I don't know what class bolt they were using.
I have done this. Heat it a bit and screw the slide hammer into the threaded hole. It tapped right out. At that point the nut will be exposed and you can remove the flange. Replace the seal and install the new 4 hole pinion.
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  #24  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:19 PM
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Update:

Picked up the '96 Discovery 1 axle, and stripped off the brake shields, removed the torsion bar, and the springs. Also cut off the brake sensor wires. I tried to remove the shaft that comes out of the 3-hole piece on the front of the diff that is threaded on the inside but there is no way it was coming off because I don't have a slide hammer or the proper tool.

Two questions;

To find out if I can indeed use my '85 diff...



To remove the redundant brackets...



Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy View Post
I have done this. Heat it a bit and screw the slide hammer into the threaded hole. It tapped right out. At that point the nut will be exposed and you can remove the flange. Replace the seal and install the new 4 hole pinion.
So if I can somehow get the pin out, then remove the three-hole thing, can I bolt my 4-hole thing in its place & put everything back on the rig? I know this will anger Evilfij, but it would be a heck of a lot easier.

I decided not to go any further because Jason (jrose 609) is coming through town tomorrow, and I wanted the rig driveable. I'll proceed next weekend.

Thanks,

Paul.
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  #25  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:25 PM
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I think it's a 13mm 12 point for the back, 19mm 12 point for the front...can't recall right no.
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  #26  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:34 PM
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Yep. Remove the five bolts on your old shaft/drive flange and pull it out. If it's 24 spline, it will be MUCH easier to swap the entire diff than to swap that pinion flange, in my opinion.
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  #27  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:36 PM
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I used a cutting wheel and a BFH to extricate the pin from the 3 hole flange.
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  #28  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:36 PM
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It is really not easier at all. With the axle on the ground and an electric impact, you can have the diff out in 15min. 5 bolts a side to get the axles out and then the 10 or so nuts holding the diff on to the casing. That is it. No tricks, no trouble. A tube of right stuff or other RTV is all you need to put it all back together (although I would loctite the axle bolts back on if you are running alloys).

Swapping flanges is not easy. Getting the old flange out is quite hard IME so much so that I just swapped diffs when I had to do it.
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  #29  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
It is really not easier at all. With the axle on the ground and an electric impact, you can have the diff out in 15min. 5 bolts a side to get the axles out and then the 10 or so nuts holding the diff on to the casing. That is it. No tricks, no trouble. A tube of right stuff or other RTV is all you need to put it all back together (although I would loctite the axle bolts back on if you are running alloys).

Swapping flanges is not easy. Getting the old flange out is quite hard IME so much so that I just swapped diffs when I had to do it.
So the 5 bolts I showed are correct? Pretty simple if so!

One of the reasons I wanted to keep the D1 diff is because the '85 one leaks really bad from the front seal. So I will likely have to replace the seal- which requires removing the pin from my diff, correct?

Can anyone confirm the 13mm 12-point caliper bolt tool?

Thanks again for all your help!

Paul.
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  #30  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 04:52 PM
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why did you pull the brake shields ?

------ Follow up post added March 2nd, 2014 04:53 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
So the 5 bolts I showed are correct? Pretty simple if so!

One of the reasons I wanted to keep the D1 diff is because the '85 one leaks really bad from the front seal. So I will likely have to replace the seal- which requires removing the pin from my diff, correct?

Can anyone confirm the 13mm 12-point caliper bolt tool?

Thanks again for all your help!

Paul.
Yes the caliper bolts simply require a 12 point socket. Why are you pulling the calipers ? Seemingly the axle you should be pulling is on your existing axle to see if the diff spline is 24. You already know the disco dif is.
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  #31  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 05:10 PM
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Yes, you need to remove the flange to replace the seal, but 9/10 cleaning out the breather stops the leak. The breather is the thing on the top of the axle casing. Remove it, clean it out, make sure air flows through freely, refit. 5min job. Even if you do need to pull the flange to replace the seal, it is really easy on a four bolt to do so. Five bolts is correct. Pull one side off the axle on the truck and see if you do have 24 spline. Otherwise this is all moot.

Yes, those bolts just need a 12 point socket. Nothing fancy.
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  #32  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Yes, you need to remove the flange to replace the seal, but 9/10 cleaning out the breather stops the leak. The breather is the thing on the top of the axle casing. Remove it, clean it out, make sure air flows through freely, refit. 5min job. Even if you do need to pull the flange to replace the seal, it is really easy on a four bolt to do so. Five bolts is correct. Pull one side off the axle on the truck and see if you do have 24 spline. Otherwise this is all moot.

Yes, those bolts just need a 12 point socket. Nothing fancy.
Good to know. Will do!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
why did you pull the brake shields ?

------ Follow up post added March 2nd, 2014 04:53 PM ------



Yes the caliper bolts simply require a 12 point socket. Why are you pulling the calipers ? Seemingly the axle you should be pulling is on your existing axle to see if the diff spline is 24. You already know the disco dif is.
The brake shields were trashed because the wrecking yard set the Discovery down on them after taking the wheels off. I read here somewhere that they don't do much anyway, and since I won't be using them, I see no point in keeping the brackets.

I'll let you know how many splines my '85 diff has.

Thanks again,

Paul.
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  #33  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 05:27 PM
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Yes Paul once you can get the pinion plug out, it's simple.. Simple flange sway and new seal. I would not swap diffs. The one in your truck now is 10 spline. The disco unit is 24 spline and stronger.
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  #34  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy View Post
Yes Paul once you can get the pinion plug out, it's simple.. Simple flange sway and new seal. I would not swap diffs. The one in your truck now is 10 spline. The disco unit is 24 spline and stronger.
Oh, for fuchs sake!

Swap the diff. Keep your old diff. AAAHHH!

If it makes any difference, I may eventually drop a 4.6 in it...

Last question...



They look identical?

Thanks again.

Paul.
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Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
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  #35  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Yes, same. But you will want to undo the castelation nut and release the ball joint from the housing.
Why do I need to do that? I was planning to leave it in place & just bolt the big A-shaped part onto it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Before you go further, you might want to pressure wash that thing. Always better to be be working on clean parts.

-Jeff
Will do. That's the nice thing about living here- no rust!
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  #36  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Its alot easier to locate/position the axle around the tapered ball joint pin, than it is to align the 2 cross bolts through the Aframe arms and balljoint housing. What the hell, give it whirl. Many ways to skin a cat.

-Jeff
Thanks Jeff, now I understand. Problem is, I don't have a wrench that big. We'll see how it goes...
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  #37  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 10:21 PM
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To putt he axle back in, fit it without the springs and it is much easier. Then fit the springs, then fit the shocks.
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  #38  
Old March 2nd, 2014, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
To putt he axle back in, fit it without the springs and it is much easier. Then fit the springs, then fit the shocks.
Thanks Ron!
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  #39  
Old March 8th, 2014, 11:00 AM
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All:

Update- I removed the old axle & stripped the new. Removed the axle shafts and they appear to be the same on the ends (not ten spline). The 3-hole and 4-hole parts do not appear to be interchangeable, so I am going to swap the diffs over- hope the '85 diff fits the '96 axle!

Photos of the carnage thus far...





Question: are Discovery 1 and Defender 90 rear springs the same? I was told that the D1 springs were shorter, but standing them side by side they are identical. I am tempted to use them because they are not rusty.

Thanks,

Paul.
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Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
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  #40  
Old March 8th, 2014, 11:44 AM
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Defender NAS springs are taller than discovery. ROW I don't know. No reason not to use the discovery springs. Worst case is a little less lift. Good news on the 24 spline diff. Feel free to call my cell if you get stuck over the weekend. You probably know this, but you need to use the discovery axle shafts with the discovery axle even though you are using the 90 diff.
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