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  #1  
Old September 10th, 2008, 09:33 AM
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directionals?

Put a new wheel on and the directionals are a little squirrel. Is there something in the hub that needs to be a certain way?
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  #2  
Old September 11th, 2008, 08:14 AM
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Left turn directional stays on?
right Turn turns off too quick?
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  #3  
Old September 11th, 2008, 08:34 AM
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You have the indicator switch thingy wrong.

Take the steering wheel off again and you will see the blue plastic cancel device (it is part of the turn signal switch). It has an arrow/pointer cast into the plastic. That has to be pointing towards the indicator stalk (level to the left in a LHD truck) and the prongs on the back of the steering wheel should be straight up and down. If the pointer wasn't facing the right way when you installed the wheel it will mess up the cancel.
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  #4  
Old September 11th, 2008, 10:49 AM
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Your the best!
Thanks, I knew I was doing something wrong!
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  #5  
Old April 28th, 2010, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR View Post
You have the indicator switch thingy wrong.

Take the steering wheel off again and you will see the blue plastic cancel device (it is part of the turn signal switch). It has an arrow/pointer cast into the plastic. That has to be pointing towards the indicator stalk (level to the left in a LHD truck) and the prongs on the back of the steering wheel should be straight up and down. If the pointer wasn't facing the right way when you installed the wheel it will mess up the cancel.
I'm having the same problem on this. my right turn signal cancels at a 1/4 turn immediately, and the left is perfectly normal. I pulled the steering wheel off (after making sure the tires and steering wheel were completely straight) and the blue cancel device was as it should be (per ECR's comments) with the arrow perfectly horizontal and pointing to the stalk on the right. With the steering wheel off, I did some experimentation, and turned the ignition on, and then the turned each signal on with the switch, and rotated the blue canceling device to see what happened. on left turn and rotating the cancel device counterclockwise, the arrow at the 180 deg (down) clicks at the rivet and then goes past continuously, and only cancels on return rotation clockwise (normal). On right turn and clockwise rotation of the cancel device, as soon as the blue arrow hits the 360 deg (up) position, the signal immediately cancels.

So if the cancel device is correctly positioned, does this mean pitman arm or drag link need to be rotated, or is this just a bad switch?
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Old April 28th, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I'm having the same problem on this. my right turn signal cancels at a 1/4 turn immediately, and the left is perfectly normal. I pulled the steering wheel off (after making sure the tires and steering wheel were completely straight) and the blue cancel device was as it should be (per ECR's comments) with the arrow perfectly horizontal and pointing to the stalk on the right. With the steering wheel off, I did some experimentation, and turned the ignition on, and then the turned each signal on with the switch, and rotated the blue canceling device to see what happened. on left turn and rotating the cancel device counterclockwise, the arrow at the 180 deg (down) clicks at the rivet and then goes past continuously, and only cancels on return rotation clockwise (normal). On right turn and clockwise rotation of the cancel device, as soon as the blue arrow hits the 360 deg (up) position, the signal immediately cancels.

So if the cancel device is correctly positioned, does this mean pitman arm or drag link need to be rotated, or is this just a bad switch?
The little blue arrow thingy needs to point to the left, towards the signal switch.
You said you have it to the right (wiper switch) in your post.
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  #7  
Old April 28th, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR View Post
The little blue arrow thingy needs to point to the left, towards the signal switch.
You said you have it to the right (wiper switch) in your post.
My error. The arrow is in fact pointing to the left at the 9 o'clock position
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Old April 28th, 2010, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ECR View Post
The little blue arrow thingy needs to point to the left, towards the signal switch.
You said you have it to the right (wiper switch) in your post.
It may be the switch then. If you don't hear/see it click the arms as it goes by, those things can break so it could be the switch.

The switch only cares about the fork on the steering wheel and how it mates to the blue cancel ring. None of the actual steering gear (drop arm, column, etc) play into how the signals cancel.
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  #9  
Old April 28th, 2010, 11:07 AM
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got it. thanks for the diagnosis help. I"ll post what I find for others benefit.
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  #10  
Old April 28th, 2010, 12:35 PM
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I take it you need to tighten the bolt on that blue thing too. I installed mine and didnt tighten it and have the same issue. Granted I never checked the arrow.
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  #11  
Old April 28th, 2010, 12:50 PM
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I take it you need to tighten the bolt on that blue thing too. I installed mine and didnt tighten it and have the same issue. Granted I never checked the arrow.
There is no bolt on the blue thing.

The blue thing floats in the switch and moves with the steering wheel to turn off/cancel the signals.

There is only 1 screw that hold the signal switch in place (around the column) and if you tighten it too much it will break the retainer ring.

The plastic column surround parts then hold the rest of it in place.
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  #12  
Old April 28th, 2010, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ECR View Post
There is no bolt on the blue thing.

The blue thing floats in the switch and moves with the steering wheel to turn off/cancel the signals.

There is only 1 screw that hold the signal switch in place (around the column) and if you tighten it too much it will break the retainer ring.

The plastic column surround parts then hold the rest of it in place.
Yeah I mean that one screw. It seemed snug when I put it on so I never tightened it.
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  #13  
Old April 28th, 2010, 01:33 PM
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There is only 1 screw that hold the signal switch in place (around the column) and if you tighten it too much it will break the retainer ring.
That would have been good to know a couple weeks ago. I have to glue mine back together now. I may glue it to the column although I found that bolting the schroud on it holds in place ok.
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  #14  
Old April 28th, 2010, 01:41 PM
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My original had it broken too. Only reason I replaced it was the rubber boot was torn. Such a waste
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  #15  
Old April 28th, 2010, 01:44 PM
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"ron good"
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  #16  
Old April 28th, 2010, 01:48 PM
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If you need one with no boot and that thing cracked . . .
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  #17  
Old April 28th, 2010, 02:48 PM
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Please throw in box of stuff to ron with door bottoms and light bar.
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  #18  
Old April 28th, 2010, 02:53 PM
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you got it. its for a 110 though. different than the one for a 90
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  #19  
Old April 28th, 2010, 02:57 PM
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you got it. its for a 110 though. different than the one for a 90
93 110 and 94 90 are the same if I recall
95-97 90 are different

It is just the wiring connector that is different
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  #20  
Old April 28th, 2010, 02:59 PM
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Pretty sure they are the same from 93-95 and then 97 is different but it is going on a bitsa so it does not matter much ....
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