Differences between top and bottom door hinges? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 4th, 2013, 01:34 PM
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Andrew Clarke
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Differences between top and bottom door hinges?

Hi. I was replacing the door hinges on my driver's door, and realized that the bottom hinge of the passenger door is worse than the top hinge of the driver's door. So, I decided to use the top hinge from the driver's door as the bottom hinge on the passenger's door instead.

Now, my passenger door only opens about 1/3 of the way before the new bottom (designed as top) hinge appears to catch on itself.

Aside from the holes for the door mirrors, are the bottom and top hinges interchangeable or have I made a time-consuming mistake here?
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Old October 4th, 2013, 01:44 PM
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The hinges are handed, but the only difference between top and bottom are the holes cast for the side mirror hardware to pass through.

Your problem is that you have one LH and one RH hinge on the door, and they open at a slight angle which is causing them to work against each other and bind.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 01:48 PM
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Andrew Clarke
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Ah OK thanks. I should have just gone back to my order to see that they were handed.

I'm in a huge rush, since I have to have the truck on the road and packed for 05:00 tomorrow morning, and when you're rushing like that, sometimes you do stupid stuff like this that sets you back an hour or two. Bummer, off come the doors and hinges.

My new bulkhead also seems to be about 3mm further forward than my old one, so I've had to shim the door catch to get the passenger door to close properly. Maybe with the door off I'll also file the holes in the bulkhead out a bit to account for that.

Thanks for the helpful answer.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 01:55 PM
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No problem!

Given that the bulkheads are handmade, we see a lot of variances in fit. If you're unhappy with your door gaps after shimming the striker out, you can always shim the bulkhead towards the rear of the truck using a washer or four between the bulkhead foot and the chassis. You'll also need to use a shim or two (NRC7131) between the inner stiffener and the footwell to keep things square.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 02:01 PM
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I'm actually happy with the door gaps with the shim, so after posting the previous reply I decided I'm better off just using the shim. First, it's easier as it's done already, and second, filing out the bulkhead will leave spots to rust through the galvanizing.

I did space out between the bulkead and frame with some washers, but that was only to take up the space that seemed to be there naturally. On the left side I'd orgininally spaced it out too little and I messed up the bulkhead a bit as I tightened the nut. So, I redid that and made sure I had enough spacing on the right side to begin with. This has definitely been a learning opportunity.
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