Diesel Fuel Filter/Primer - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 14th, 2005, 12:45 PM
Michael
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Diesel Fuel Filter/Primer

Can a second fuel "out" fuel pipe be atached to what is usually plugged to tap into the fuel curcuit so a diesel fired engine heater can be fed?
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  #2  
Old November 14th, 2005, 01:17 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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My plan was to T off the line in the engine bay but I read that some folks were having trouble with starvation. I ran two lines directly from the tank - one for the coolant heater and another for a cabin heater.
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  #3  
Old November 14th, 2005, 07:26 PM
Michael
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Unhappy Diesel heater

Well, it looks like I will be removing the fuel tank pick again!

Thanks for the advice Art.

I almost have the diesel conversion done. A little more plumbing and then some electrical.

Keep in touch.
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  #4  
Old November 14th, 2005, 07:59 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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I suggest you tap another hole in the tank as a spare. You never know when you may need another heater and as long as you're there...
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  #5  
Old November 14th, 2005, 09:22 PM
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David Shechter
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Why tap another hole? You'll have to drop the tank again even if you had another hole, I'd wait. Do it when you know you need it.
I am having an Espar heater plumbed into my trucks fuel & cooling system
http://www.espar.com/htm/Specs/water/hydro5.htm
I'm not doing the install myself so I can't make any recommendations as to how to go about it; however, I do not believe it is being plumbed the way the instructions suggest.

Glad to hear your almost done, that's great!
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  #6  
Old November 15th, 2005, 09:06 AM
Michael
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engine heater

Hi Sheki.

I guess we have the same heater too. That DW5 is a nice piece of equipment. I am going to try to drill the one hole without dropping the tank (near the fuel pick up). Or maybe open a 2-3" hole in the cargo floor above the tank and then drill into the tank and install from there.

Yeah, almost finished. Just yesterday, I extended the existing kick down cable with a zip-tie(will this melt?). I think that qualifies for the cob-job of the week (I just registered a domain name, cob-job.com, where maybe we can all post some pics of our wonderful creations.) Was it you who recommended using the existing kick-down?

Is the new tranny in yet?
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  #7  
Old November 15th, 2005, 09:58 AM
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David Shechter
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I recommended the original throttle cable.
You may want to try contacting Pendy about your heater install, he may have some suggestions. I don't know about drilling through the bed of the truck, so permanent. I believe mine was installed using the existing fuel and breather lines. The tee connection was made prior to the fuel filter in the engine bay, that's about as much as I can remember.
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  #8  
Old November 15th, 2005, 10:01 AM
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Where did you guys get the heater? And how much?
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  #9  
Old November 15th, 2005, 10:05 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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I have the Espar D4 (coolant) and Airtronic 4 (cabin). Two lines coming from the tank. Just drop the tank once and do it right. Tap two holes if you have any thoughts of using a cabin later. You can then drop in the pickup without dropping the tank again.

My Tdi heater's good but not good enough in the coldest of days and not fast enough to heat up - especially on short trips. So, I went with the cabin heater. Both can be controlled from a remote and both are connected to the 7-day timer. This allows me to adjust the cabin heater and read any fault codes from either heater.

In retrospect, I should have first devised a way to recirculate internal air to the heater to see how that would work. But I got a good deal on teh Airtronic so...
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  #10  
Old November 15th, 2005, 10:59 AM
Michael
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I called Espar (from the US - 1-800-387-4800; from Canada 1-800-668-6676[or5676 as I can't make out if its a 5 or 6 in the front]) and they gave me the closest dealers in my area. New, the local dearlers (DTS Trucking) quoted $1200 for the D5 and $250 for the 7-day timer and another $200 to install. I ended up finding one on ebay for a little less, but don't know if it works yet. That would suck if it didn't.

Follow-up Post:

I am changing to a 1/2" inner diameter oil cooler, but I can't find any barbed fittings that mate to the existing cooler line ends that used to hook up to radiator and cooler. They are not NPT. Any suggestions? Can one just slide flexible rubber hose onto to the cooler lines and then clamp behind the o-ring "stop" or will the high pressure cause this to leak?
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  #11  
Old November 15th, 2005, 11:01 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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Hydronic 4 (D4) = $500 on Ebay, new from Germany
Airtronic 4 = $625 on Ebay, new from Belgium
7-day timer = $80 on Ebay

You want to make sure you're getting a complete kit. Any missing part will be pricey from Espar.

Most folks use the D4 as it is more than enough for even a 110. The D5 is the same physical size but uses more fuel and amps.

TIP: use a good realy for the power lead. I have read that the standard Bosch trips off quicker as the battery voltage drops. The P&B is better in this application.

TIP: mount the cabin heater in the passenger seat box. For the intake simply drill a 3-inch hole in the seat box cover and screw over it a fan screen like from a PC power supply.
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  #12  
Old December 16th, 2005, 01:22 PM
Michael
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Hydronic Fuel

I decided to attach a small auxillary fuel tank for the engine heater. It is a 2 liter plastic one from US Plastics. It will probably be accessible from the rear passenger side wheel well. I will refrain from filling it in public.
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  #13  
Old December 16th, 2005, 01:40 PM
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Michael, I have had a lot of trouble identifying those fittings myself as well. They are very non-standard as I have found out. Your best bet is to just run new lines all the way back to the engine and use a different sandwich plate that has readily available threads. I also wouldn't recommend just clamping onto the smooth pipe, 40psi is something it will see all the time with possible higher spikes in cold weather, plus I don't know if the pipe can support the clamping without kinking.

I HIGHLY recommend the Mocal SP1T thermostat/sandwich plate for the oil lines, especially if you go with a lot larger oil cooler. It prevents oil starvation at start-up as well as allows the oil to get to operating temperature to prevent sludge. It will also allow larger oil lines and has less restriction than the stock piece. Which oil cooler did you end up going with? I've been eyeballing the Setrab fan packs for a while now, maybe this summer I'll actually get around to installing one.

I have a writeup of my Mocal install on my website www.siegecraft.us/mocal.htm

-Hans
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  #14  
Old December 16th, 2005, 01:42 PM
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I really can not see why you don't just tee into the normal suction line. If that causes starvation problems, you have something else wrong. The engine pump takes a huge flow compared to anything that one of these heaters draw.
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  #15  
Old December 16th, 2005, 03:26 PM
Michael
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Trans Oil coolers fittings

It took a while, but I did find what barbed fittings to use. Eaton/Aeroquip makes them. I have four of them but they have to be modified. Maybe you can be more specific when you order- the ones they sent me have the male threaded freely spinning and an o-ring back stop stop. Our Rovers already have a swivel female end [that attaches to the radiator and oil cooler] with the o-ring back stop. What you have to do is grind of the o-ring stop, push the spinning male part up to the end of the pipe it spins on and weld (tig I believe because the fittings are aluminum). I would imagine that Aeroquip has the right one. The part number for the [wrong] one I have is "FJ305208S". Tell them this is what you need but the male threaded part is fixed to the pipe and at the end of it.

Since I did not weld them, What I have done is cut the existing oil cooler lines at the flexible rubber hose part and used a 1/2" barbed brass couplers to attach the cooler. The oil cooler itself is B&M Supercooler. I have also put a perma-cool transmission oil filter in the circuit as well. I have not run the engine yet so I am not sure how this will all work. As soon as I find out,I will post here.

If you have any questions on the fittings, please ask. It will save you allot of time, but first lets see if it can hold 200psi.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
I really can not see why you don't just tee into the normal suction line. If that causes starvation problems, you have something else wrong. The engine pump takes a huge flow compared to anything that one of these heaters draw.
I would love to just do that. Maybe I will try it.
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  #16  
Old December 16th, 2005, 08:19 PM
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Peter Sherman
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Are you talking about the fittings in the rad? Male to Male. If so thats an easy fix. Remove them & tap to 3/8 npt. I belive those threads are 20/1mm. 3/8 npt are very very close. I have done this on my 110 & works like a charm.
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  #17  
Old August 15th, 2006, 12:45 PM
Michael
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Cutting existing transmission oil cooler lines at the rubber hoses and then connecting there with barbed fittings does work. I have been driving for four months now.
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