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  #1  
Old June 11th, 2010, 11:31 AM
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Died going to work

So I was going down a hill and the truck just shut off. I'm getting a tow. What's the best way to tow? Is it two up with transfer in neutral or four up on a flatbed? More question to follow later once truck is home.

Thanks for you help!!
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  #2  
Old June 11th, 2010, 11:35 AM
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Four up on a flatbed. Although the one time I had to get tow, the winch had strained getting that big bastard on the truck.
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  #3  
Old June 11th, 2010, 11:41 AM
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Flat bed or pull the rear driveshaft.
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  #4  
Old June 11th, 2010, 12:51 PM
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have you tried to get it running again?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
So I was going down a hill and the truck just shut off. I'm getting a tow. What's the best way to tow? Is it two up with transfer in neutral or four up on a flatbed? More question to follow later once truck is home.

Thanks for you help!!
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  #5  
Old June 11th, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Removed rear driveshaft and truck is home now. Going on vacation tomorrow so won't be able to work on it.

Why would it just die out while going down the road? it seems to me it would be a fuel issue. Just filled up yesterday and drove 15 miles without a problem

------ Follow up post added June 11th, 2010 01:02 PM ------

Ren-- yes tried but still same thing... Just cranks and cranks but won't turn over.
The temperature guage hasn't been working for a month or so, it reads absolutely nothing even after 20 minutes on interstate. Not sure if that could cause it to overheat if it's getting a false reading.
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Old June 11th, 2010, 01:46 PM
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Could be numerous things, but I would start with a bad fuel pump relay or bad fuel pump. Listen when you put the key in the second position to hear if the fuel pump kicks on in the back.
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Old June 11th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Check for presence absence of fuel at the rail and also check for presence/absence of spark.

Could be fuel pump (they can be a real bear on Defenders due to corrosion of the fasteners), for your sake, I hope it's ignition related, the parts are more easily accessed!
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Old June 11th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Well if the engine is rotating you are likely in pretty good shape. Is there a 12v wire to the injector pump that has fallen off? That's pretty much all most of these diesels need to run as long as there is fuel in the tank. You would probably know if it overheated badly enough to cause it to stop running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
Removed rear driveshaft and truck is home now. Going on vacation tomorrow so won't be able to work on it.

Why would it just die out while going down the road? it seems to me it would be a fuel issue. Just filled up yesterday and drove 15 miles without a problem

------ Follow up post added June 11th, 2010 01:02 PM ------

Ren-- yes tried but still same thing... Just cranks and cranks but won't turn over.
The temperature guage hasn't been working for a month or so, it reads absolutely nothing even after 20 minutes on interstate. Not sure if that could cause it to overheat if it's getting a false reading.
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  #9  
Old June 11th, 2010, 02:12 PM
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Like Dave B said I would start by checking if the fuel stop solenoid is working.

on a 2.5 and a TDI it should make a clicking noise, not sure how it work on a 2.25?
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Old June 11th, 2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Like Dave B said I would start by checking if the fuel stop solenoid is working.

on a 2.5 and a TDI it should make a clicking noise, not sure how it work on a 2.25?
Oops, sounds like it's not gonna have an ignition amp, is it?
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  #11  
Old June 11th, 2010, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu View Post
Could be numerous things, but I would start with a bad fuel pump relay or bad fuel pump. Listen when you put the key in the second position to hear if the fuel pump kicks on in the back.

his truck doesn't have those parts to fail. When you get back, try having some one turn the engine over while you loosen the fuel line to an injector-if there's no fuel spray its the fuel cut off, injection pump,lift pump, or clogged fuel filter.
@ least those would be where I'd start. Fuel pressure to a diesel injector is very high so the fuel atomizes.
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  #12  
Old June 11th, 2010, 07:36 PM
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What engine are we talking about? If its a diesel I would check the connector where it plugs inte the IP solenoid. I would unplug the thing, re-tighten the wire terminal with a plier and plug it back on.
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  #13  
Old June 11th, 2010, 08:02 PM
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This is a naturally aspirated deisel 2.5 or 2.25, not sure. I attached a pic that certainly does not look good and might be the problem. I really don't know what you call that part, but it's got the throttle control and sends fuel to the engine. Is it what Ren calls the injector pump with the loose 12v wire? There is a bunch of white goop that has collected around where the wire connects to it and looks like the blue gasket is being pushed out. A bit of fuel does appear to be dripping out of there too. What is that supposed to look like?
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  #14  
Old June 11th, 2010, 08:17 PM
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That would appear to be the stop solenoid. When 12v power is cut is closes and shuts off the fuel supply.

Not sure what the crazy looking goop coming out of it is
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  #15  
Old June 11th, 2010, 08:44 PM
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That's not what they are supposed to look like.
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  #16  
Old June 11th, 2010, 09:12 PM
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I would go with that not even being "Ron good."
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  #17  
Old June 11th, 2010, 10:55 PM
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yeah i'd say that's the culprit. Should be available from the usual suspects, or any diesel/tractor shop that deals with Lucas/CAV components.

PS you might be able to just shove the innards back in and see if it clicks, if so see if it will start. you'll still have to change it though. but solenoids are just big stupid magnets and i've seen worse looking ones actually work.

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I would go with that not even being "Ron good."
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  #18  
Old June 12th, 2010, 01:43 PM
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Thanks for all the input. I will look into this more when I return.

Jeff
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  #19  
Old June 26th, 2010, 11:11 AM
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I tried the usual suspects and I have only found this one for a 2.5.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...olenoid&page=1

I guess I still have a question about what engine I have though. A picture is included in case someone can help me identify it.

Will that solenoid fit the 2.25 as well as the 2.5? Is the genuine part worth the money over the replacement, ($75 vs. $10) or should I just get a couple of the replacement ones to have a spare?
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  #20  
Old June 26th, 2010, 11:36 AM
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I would have to guess 2.25 as it looks diffrent than the 2.5 that came in my 1984 90"
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