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  #21  
Old May 5th, 2009, 04:42 PM
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Used ones are like $50. 1994 cross with most 14CUX trucks and 1997s I believe (someone would have to double check) cross with GEMS disco Is.
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  #22  
Old May 11th, 2009, 07:53 AM
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Thought I'd provide an update on this drama - plus I know Ron is going through something similar right now.

My drama continues....

I ended up replacing the crank sensor purely from a "what the hell + good maintenance" angle. While getting that shipped from AB the shop where I have the truck called and said "we nailed it, it has to be the 1997 fuel pump relay" ($100 part from AB). They felt very sure - said that they were getting spark but that the fuel pump wasn't getting power and that when they cooled the relay down (in the fridge...) that it fired up again. Coincidentally I had personally seen the mechanic driving around town that day near the shop so thought he fixed it...

Got there paid the guy and the truck choked - finished the gas in the lines - and then didn't start. Back to square one!

My only thought was that when he said "fuel pump wasn't getting power" he means it didn't make a sound. So perhaps this is a bum fuel pump and/or wires back there and that the relay WAS sending power but nothing working to use that power.. When he calls today hopefully I'm going to find out exactly what he did to determine there was no juice at the pump.

I pressed the intertia sensor plenty of times but I have not bypassed it during a no start - I'll make sure he's doing that. as well.

If anyone has any other ideas as to what else it could be I'm all ears.
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  #23  
Old May 12th, 2009, 10:41 PM
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Sounds like a bad fuel pump frankly. How many miles are on it?
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  #24  
Old May 13th, 2009, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Sounds like a bad fuel pump frankly. How many miles are on it?
55K Miles

It will start one time drive for a mile then cut out. That's when he says there IS spark but no power to the pump (again, I'm hoping he literally means no power not just no fuel pressure or he's heading down the wrong path) which led him to say that it was the relay. I've swapped the crank sensor and the main fuel pump relay under the proverbial white box in the engine compartment. It will then sometimes turn back on an run for a while and sometimes it won't after it dies - really strange.

He now says that a bad pump could be killing the relay - not sure I buy it - does that sound like a possibility? My feeling is that I'm probably going to have to take the plunge and have him drop the tank and replace the pump. I'm assuming at this point it's unlikely that it would be loose wiring at the pump - seems to me that if it were wiring it wouldn't be *that* intermittent and perhaps some shaking of the wires could start it up (?) which is doesn't.

Glad you found your issue though!

Hutch
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  #25  
Old May 13th, 2009, 08:10 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Hutch if you suspect it's wiring then bypass that to prove it. You can cut the wires that run to the fuel pump just forward of the tank above the rear axle (or remove the relay and fuse and just splice into it, but this doesn't' isolate it). Run a dedicated ground and power direct from the battery and test drive. If this resolves the problem, work backwards. It's a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than replacing the fuel pump.

That said, replacing the fuel pump isn't a bad preventative measure
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  #26  
Old May 13th, 2009, 11:25 AM
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Have you checked the VSS?
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  #27  
Old May 14th, 2009, 09:46 AM
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Robert Dassler
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Double check the connector by the heater box. It's a 2 pin connector with a white/purple and a green/black wire. It's in a spot where water can drain onto it from the hood seal and it is one of the cheap Econoseal connectors....like the kind on the rear taillights that always get full of water. Check this connector for water ingress/green growies on the terminals. If it corrodes it can cause the issues you are having.
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  #28  
Old May 14th, 2009, 01:24 PM
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Fun I get to replace the pump. Apparently it did end up being the pump itself (which has stopped flailing and died "officially") according to the shop. I would have had the truck back this weekend but the tank skid-plate has enough rust spots that he thinks I should put in a new one. Normally he likes to repair them but he said this one should go.

If I essentially can replace it with stock or stock equivalent (not used as an off-road truck that often) does anyone have any recommendations? I'd prefer a bolt-on as opposed to something too custom as I haven't worked with this shop before. I don't mind paying a little more if it's worth it but I also don't rock crawl in this truck!

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Fuelskid.html (I can see if ECR will ship)
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4...er-90-nas.aspx
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...fender-90.aspx
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ca...376&bestseller
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ABPXFT01.cfm?bc=ab
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  #29  
Old May 14th, 2009, 01:38 PM
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Yeastie had a Southdown and I just bought one from ECR for Chiquita. Given that you live in Florida, I would buy a stock one if ECR can't/won't ship one.
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  #30  
Old May 16th, 2009, 03:39 AM
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Javier Velador
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I'm still having the same issue on my D90. How exactly did you run power directly to the fuel pump?
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  #31  
Old May 16th, 2009, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvelador
I'm still having the same issue on my D90. How exactly did you run power directly to the fuel pump?
I personally didn't. A local shop did and I think it's a matter of splicing into the leads in in the rear of the truck running right to the pump. The problem is - as far as I understand - to do this it's easier if you lower the tank a little bit. There isn't much room there (which can cause the wires to get pinched/frayed/broken) to work in. That's the main reason I decided to bring it to a shop and not do this myself. Apparently dropping the tank really shouldn't be a 1-person job.

FYI - I should have the truck back by Wednesday - I'll post and update assuming all is well.
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  #32  
Old May 17th, 2009, 04:04 PM
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Thanks, Hutch! I'm resolved to take it to a local shop. I tried yesterday and twice it tried to sputter into life. This leads me to believe there is a loose connection somewhere.

Thanks again,

javier
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  #33  
Old May 20th, 2009, 08:20 PM
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Drama Conclusion

Well in the end it turned out to be a failing fuel pump.

During the drama I replaced the crank sensor for good measure which wasn't that expensive.

What ticked me off was the garage that did the work then swore up and down it was the fuel pump relay under the "white box" on the passenger side of the engine. As many of you said - that is a VERY unlikely piece to fail - and you all were right. I ended up next-day-airing the sucker to the tune of 150 bucks total just to replace a perfectly good part! Turns out at that time he DIDN"T splice in to determine that there still WAS juice running to the pump indicating the relay was fine.

In the end he did splice in and the fuel pump was the culprit. Quite an expensive little adventure for me.

I hope not to have to post to this thread again saying it was something else!

Hutch
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  #34  
Old May 20th, 2009, 11:39 PM
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At least it is fixed.

I am not sure how people owned specialty vehicles before the internet, I guess a club + national newsletter, but without the interwebs I bet half the D90s in the country would not be running right now.

Ron
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  #35  
Old May 20th, 2009, 11:53 PM
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It's both a blessing and a curse. Sometimes it's best to just check the service manual .
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  #36  
Old May 21st, 2009, 01:29 AM
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Thanks, Hutch.

I installed a new battery, a new fuel filter and one new relay this weekend. It sputtered, ran on what appeared to be one cylinder, then died. This happened half a dozen times. I kept thinking the fuel line was simply dry and that if the pump was good, it would prime it after a few attempts.

Can someone tell me where the fuel pump fuse is on a '94? Is it inside the engine compartment or inside the cab. If it is in the cab with the cluster of fuses, which one is it?

I've read different posts regarding fuel pump/relay issues, but have yet to identify it.

Thanks!
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  #37  
Old May 21st, 2009, 07:45 AM
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Did they ever check the pressure at the fuel rail?
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  #38  
Old May 21st, 2009, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch
In the end he did splice in and the fuel pump was the culprit. Quite an expensive little adventure for me.
That's pretty pathetic. I took that step on the trail this weekend as soon as I couldn't hear the pump, and confirmed my relays were good. A quick easy and obvious way to check if the pump itself is good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
At least it is fixed.

I am not sure how people owned specialty vehicles before the internet, I guess a club + national newsletter, but without the interwebs I bet half the D90s in the country would not be running right now.

Ron
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  #39  
Old May 21st, 2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
Did they ever check the pressure at the fuel rail?
I did originally and didn't have pressure/fuel but I wasn't (personally) comfortable with splicing in to determine if it was the relay or pump itself. I just assumed that's what a shop would do immadiately (he did.... eventually...)

To 2nd Charles comment - I agree. It was pathetic he didn't do it considering I asked him to originally and when it was confident it was the relay I assumed he had. Alas....

Still less expensive than the dealer and probably just as good work. I fault him for jumping to conclusions (and being a bit lazy). I still feel like he knows his stuff.

Thanks for all the advice along the way everyone.
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  #40  
Old May 21st, 2009, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
At least since cell phones they just called a friend
Who turned out to be useless. Any update?
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