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  #1  
Old February 15th, 2013, 09:52 AM
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Raub A.
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Detroit Locker

Seeking advice on putting a Detroit locker in the rear of my 86 ExMod 90. I would love ARBs and know they are stronger, but I can't afford them anytime soon. I could however afford a Detroit for the rear.

What weakness/issues are there using a Detroit locker. And is there a better alternative out there?

Thanks,
Raub
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  #2  
Old February 15th, 2013, 10:17 AM
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They work great. You will need to also get heavy duty 24 spline halfshafts. If it has the genuine HD shafts in it now, they are pretty good, but aftermarket are safer.
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  #3  
Old February 15th, 2013, 10:20 AM
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With either locker you'll want strengthened half shalfs
Have you factored that cost into the equation?
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  #4  
Old February 15th, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Have you given thought about the Detroit Truetrac (their LSD)? Better on the axles too.
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  #5  
Old February 15th, 2013, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
With either locker you'll want strengthened half shalfs
Have you factored that cost into the equation?
As I said above, it depends what axles he has at the moment. A lot of the ex-MOD trucks have a 4 pinion differential with genuine HD, 24 spline halfshafts. These are a lot stronger than the later model 24 spline shafts. If you are not a serious off roader, they can work fine. I ran them for years with my Detroit and did not break them.
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  #6  
Old February 15th, 2013, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the half shafts, I broke one on my old series IIa with open diffs. I don't know what are in my truck now so I will have to figure that out first. I am planning on attending a few Rover events this year. But will stay with the BFG 33's and keep the 2.5 n/a. Is there any to tell what type of half shafts I have W/O pulling them?

I think I had a TruTrac in one of my old Ford pick ups and it worked well.

Well I am off to Disney World for the weekend for a my daughters Baton Twirling Competition. WooHoo!
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  #7  
Old February 15th, 2013, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Is there any to tell what type of half shafts I have W/O pulling them?
That is the safest way. It is only 5 bolts. 10 minutes of your life...

They are all 24 spline at the wheel. You need to see what is at the diff. The HD shafts should have "HD" stamped on the end of the shaft, but I would pull anyway.

You can also look at the axle serial number as that will tell you. However with 30 years of life, anything could have been changed, so again pulling the shafts is the safest choice.
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  #8  
Old February 15th, 2013, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the half shafts, I broke one on my old series IIa with open diffs. I don't know what are in my truck now so I will have to figure that out first. I am planning on attending a few Rover events this year. But will stay with the BFG 33's and keep the 2.5 n/a. Is there any to tell what type of half shafts I have W/O pulling them?

I think I had a TruTrac in one of my old Ford pick ups and it worked well.

Well I am off to Disney World for the weekend for a my daughters Baton Twirling Competition. WooHoo!
There's pro's and cons. Really depends on what you're after. As John noted though, best bet is to find out for sure what axles you have as that's really important as a starting point. The TrueTracs aren't as demanding on axles because of how they function, and the fact that they are not a full locker (you're range from 35% ish to 70%ish usually depending on the ratio of the unit). But if you are wanting to go with a Detroit, or are wanting to get large tires, you definitely want to know what axles are there. A quick rundown of some of the things to contemplate:

Detrot Locker:

Pro's
- Full locker
- Cost effective
- Fully automatic, so easy to operate

Con's
- More prone to breakage
- Requires proper axles (as would an ARB)
- Not a good choice for the front axle

TrueTrac Limited Slip:

Pro's
- Does not require axle upgrade (assuming you stay with tires in the 32" range max), provided you aren't doing extreme wheeling
- Works fine in front and rear
- Life of vehicle item and very durable

Con's
- More expensive
- Can take some finessing to get to engage (brake application)
- Does not lock fully (this may or may not be a "con" though, really depends on what you need)


...oh, and have fun at Disney World!
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  #9  
Old February 15th, 2013, 05:53 PM
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Save some more money and get the ARB's. I know a lot of guys that run other stuff and are VERY happy but noting beats a selectable locker off road. my 2 cents
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  #10  
Old February 15th, 2013, 10:36 PM
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There are pros and cons. The detroit is simple and just works. An ARB requires a compressor and valves and hoses and you need to turn it on and off.
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  #11  
Old February 15th, 2013, 11:45 PM
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I had a Detroit rear and TT front in my D2 and really liked it. Is there any issue with running a Detroit and a manual trans? I feel like I had read that somewhere, maybe not specifically for a Rover though
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  #12  
Old February 16th, 2013, 07:44 AM
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I've clocked over 80,000 miles on a TT-Detroit in my 90 with 4:11's. never an issue. I run 33's and stock axles. In the past I wheeled it very hard. One time I was spinning probably 3000 rpm in a thick mud hole and caught a rock. The front drive shaft twisted in two but the axles and TT and diff never failed. That was probably 50000 miles ago.

Clay
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  #13  
Old February 17th, 2013, 02:40 PM
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Back from Disney. Crowded as hell, no beer and got mugged by a mouse. But my daughter had a great time!
Awsome advice/knowledge. Thanks so much. I figure it is one of 2 routes then;

Cheap
- TT front
- Detroit rear
- Run what ever axles are in there
- And hope for the best

or

Twice the money but bad ass
-ARBs front an rear
-On board air compressor
-New axles all the way around (maybe)
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  #14  
Old February 18th, 2013, 10:43 AM
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Unless you plan on wheeling it hard, you don't -need- HD half shafts. You need something "cheap" that can act as a fuse in your drivetrain. (Stock) half shaft can be had for "cheap". If you are a "put pedal to metal" kind of guy, then, you will break something anyway, so... Better have something cheap to replace!
I don't wheel hard and rarely use my ARBs. The only issue I had with the setup so far is:
- corrosion on the (internal to compressor/tank) air filter that prevented the rear locker to actuate.
- pressure switch seems to be on it's way out which make the setup not work at times.

My setup is ~10 year old (and I only added the front locker).

Personally, I would save for a selectable setup (ARB or the other mechanical type of setup) just because I like to know when I put stress (more) on the drivetrain (and avoid unnecessary stress).

2 cents!
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  #15  
Old April 10th, 2013, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSU_Disco View Post
Is there any issue with running a Detroit and a manual trans? I feel like I had read that somewhere, maybe not specifically for a Rover though
Anybody with a manual trans and a Detroit care to chime in on this?
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  #16  
Old April 10th, 2013, 04:08 PM
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Nope. I've had one for 8 years and 80k miles.
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  #17  
Old April 10th, 2013, 05:49 PM
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I dont think there were any non-heavy duty 24 spline drum brake rear axles. If you are going to buy upgraded axles make sure they are specific to this application because disk and drum rear axles take different length shafts. If you think you might upgrade to a disk brake rear axle (Discovery) later on, I wouldn't invest in aftermarket shafts for the drum brake axle.

Worth noting if you do break a half shaft with a Detroit locker, you will most likely break the locker as well. I've been down this road before.
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  #18  
Old April 10th, 2013, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abeer View Post
Anybody with a manual trans and a Detroit care to chime in on this?
Mine is a manual.
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  #19  
Old April 10th, 2013, 07:15 PM
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Same here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
I've clocked over 80,000 miles on a TT-Detroit in my 90 with 4:11's. never an issue.
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  #20  
Old April 10th, 2013, 07:33 PM
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I've always head if you break an axle in a detroit you will damage the diff whereas an ARB is fine if you break an axle. Maybe put the cost of HD axles towards the ARB
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