Dent Repair on inside of Tub - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 18th, 2016, 01:16 PM
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Dent Repair on inside of Tub

Before I Ron good this, any tips? Do I heat or not? I was going to jack from underneath and hammer on the side. Need to get it fixed as I am springing for a new mat and want it to look nice. Need not be perfect.
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  #2  
Old September 18th, 2016, 01:16 PM
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Second pic.

BTW it has been like this since I bought the truck the first time in 2002 or so.
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  #3  
Old September 18th, 2016, 01:23 PM
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I would hire a cheap mobile paintless dent repair guy. I had a creased rear quarter panel and difficult to see where it was. Aluminum is tougher to deal with but if does not need to be perfect than should be easy repair or bfh and a block of wood
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Old September 18th, 2016, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Roverdoc View Post
I would hire a cheap mobile paintless dent repair guy. I had a creased rear quarter panel and difficult to see where it was. Aluminum is tougher to deal with but if does not need to be perfect than should be easy repair or bfh and a block of wood
So no heat?
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  #5  
Old September 20th, 2016, 11:00 AM
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Heat will make it brittle, I'm assuming
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  #6  
Old September 20th, 2016, 11:48 AM
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Heat will make it brittle, I'm assuming
That depends if know how to use the heat....


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Old September 20th, 2016, 11:51 AM
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Second PDR...but the probability of Ron hiring a anyone to fix this is about as high as him hiring anyone to fix his mansion

The Ron good way of fixing this is without heat. Use some smooth hardwood board clamped across the back of the aluminum as the buck. The die (the part that you hammer on) should be a smooth piece of hardwood as well. Never hammer directly on the aluminum. Just on the die. ultimately what you are doing is squishing the aluminum flat between two smooth, flat surfaces. Essentially cold-forming.

You need a die and a buck otherwise the result will look pretty ripply. If it comes out somewhat ripply, you can fix with an orbital sander to make flat.
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  #8  
Old September 20th, 2016, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Second PDR...but the probability of Ron hiring a anyone to fix this is about as high as him hiring anyone to fix his mansion
On the average day, there are three people working on the mansion, and I am not one of them.

I just need to retain a inhouse rover mechanic. I am trying to teach the house boy but since he is back in college he is not there as much as over the summer.
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  #9  
Old September 20th, 2016, 12:25 PM
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That depends if know how to use the heat....


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  #10  
Old September 20th, 2016, 12:59 PM
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There are actually BirmaBright dent repair instructions in the series workshop manual, with instructions on heating the panel before working out dents. Aluminum work-hardens VERY quickly, in fact the initial dent has already caused some work hardening to occur and hammering out the panel could eventually lead to cracking the aluminum. You could probably get away without heating/annealing it as long as you don't over do it. See section 76-1 Body Repairs.
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  #11  
Old September 20th, 2016, 01:20 PM
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It's already Ron Good... Why would you bother to add a new rubber mat? :-)
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  #12  
Old September 20th, 2016, 01:29 PM
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I think Birmabright (series) body panel repair is somewhat different from Defender aluminum repair. Birmabright is an Al-Mg alloy (5000 series) while Defender body panels are Al-Mn (3000 series).

Thankfully, the rate of work hardening in 3000 series aluminum is significantly lower than 5000 series - almost as low as 1100 series (As observed experimentally, Defender body panels are softer than Series panels.)

The Birmabright techniques probably apply to Defender body panels, just not nearly as difficult to form.

I really do not recommend heat for flat panels on defenders. I have done this several times early on in my repair attempts (2011-2012ish) and the rate of thermal expansion is massive. You can actually see the entire panel warp from the heat of a propane torch. The end result is that the aluminum may or may not be permanently warped with the simple application of heat. It's not worth the risk (IMHO) to simply beat out a small portion of a much larger panel. The Defender aluminum is incredibly soft and can be cold worked.
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  #13  
Old September 20th, 2016, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
It's already Ron Good... Why would you bother to add a new rubber mat? :-)
To cover the holes from where the rear seat was.
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