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Old February 15th, 2016, 09:08 PM
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After sitting for a long time (2 years or so) I changed out the fuel filter and primed the system. Yesterday and recently it has been starting normally as I move it around the driveway. However, after I changed the filter now instead of cranking over immediately it turns over 5-9 times before firing up. Could there still be air in the system?

Also, the diesel that was in the filter had a honey/amber look to it. Since the tank was empty, I added 2 gallons of good diesel and some Power Services diesel injector cleaner. Edit: 2.8TGV, freshly charged battery, starter spins fine, Engine is new.
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  #2  
Old February 16th, 2016, 12:58 AM
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Since the engine is new, is this a replacement for another diesel or a conversion from gas?
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Old February 16th, 2016, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
Since the engine is new, is this a replacement for another diesel or a conversion from gas?
It was a conversion from gas. But it was cranking fine recently. I ran it 2 days ago to make sure my gauges were working since I'm in the middle of putting the dash back together. I went to start it the next day and it wouldn't fire. The fuel gauge read empty so I put some more in and changed the filter. I had to prime it a couple times but it is still taking a while to start.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 07:35 AM
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You most likely have trapped air, but could also have an air leak.

If you want a robust self bleeding fuel system that will eliminate your fuel problems, here's what you do:
The optimal routing for a self bleeding fuel system is:
Tank -> Sedimenter -> 12V fuel pump -> lift pump -> filter -> IP -> return line from IP joins with Injector spill over -> straight back to the tank.
I am no fan or the original plastic lines that over time split and leak or develop leaks when kinked.
Any part of your fuel system past the fuel pump sucking air will be exposed under pressure from the 12V fuel pump.
If you do have a leak, it will be identified so you can fix it... otherwise will go unnoticed.

Hope this helps
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Old February 16th, 2016, 11:36 AM
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Did you remove the inline gas filter?
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Old February 16th, 2016, 11:39 AM
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we really need a lot more information on the conversion. People do conversions different ways. How is the entire fuel supply system setup?
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Old February 16th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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This is how it is set up. It was a frame off install with the M&D kit. New tank and aircraft grade fuel supply and return lines straight from tank to lift pump -> filter -> IP -> injectors and then leak-off return. If I remember correctly the proper fuel pickup tube was not used and instead one was "fabbed" up. I'm wondering if this might be causing air to enter the system if the pickup isn't located deep enough. Here are some pics for reference. Click image for larger version

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Old February 16th, 2016, 12:09 PM
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You don't have an electric fuel pump by any chance, do you?
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Old February 16th, 2016, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
You don't have an electric fuel pump by any chance, do you?
No I don't. I know some folks fit one, but I'm not sure if it's necessary? And sedimenters...again not sure. Maybe I need both. I am trying to find the right pickup tube for my peteol style tank. Maybe that'll solve the issue. Tried to start today and same long delay
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Old February 16th, 2016, 12:17 PM
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Certainly not required, but you could rule out some issues with one. Also easier to bleed the system of air
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Old February 16th, 2016, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Certainly not required, but you could rule out some issues with one. Also easier to bleed the system of air
That's what rdavisinva suggested too. I'm guessing I would mount this along the chassis towards the back? Is wiring difficult?
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Old February 16th, 2016, 01:13 PM
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Wiring is very easy, but I would talk to Robert about how to do it best.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 01:23 PM
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I just bled the filter housing and then cracked open the 2nd injector. I turned it over a few times and nothing really came out...not enough to notice on the rag. The filter seems full. There are a few bubbles then it oozes straight diesel. She starts up, but only after I go through this dance a couple times.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 01:24 PM
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You do not need the complexity of an electric pump. Just fix the air leaks. Adding another pump without fixing the leaks is a bandaid and hides an existing problem.

A sedimenter is a good idea though as the lift pump check valves tend to get plugged when you do not have one and causes the lift pump to not work.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 01:26 PM
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First check that the lift pump is working. Disconnect the line after the fuel filter and crank away. You should get a good strong flow of fuel. The lift pump should bleed the system on its own with no trouble.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You do not need the complexity of an electric pump. Just fix the air leaks. Adding another pump without fixing the leaks is a bandaid and hides an existing problem.

A sedimenter is a good idea though as the lift pump check valves tend to get plugged when you do not have one and causes the lift pump to not work.
I use the electric pump to find the leaks, then fix. I agree it's not necessary, and will add to the complexity of the system.
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Old February 16th, 2016, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
First check that the lift pump is working. Disconnect the line after the fuel filter and crank away. You should get a good strong flow of fuel. The lift pump should bleed the system on its own with no trouble.
Good tip...it's always the easiest stuff sometimes. I'll take a look after work.
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Old July 16th, 2017, 12:06 PM
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Just to close this issue, it turned out to be a wire that detached from the back of the ignition switch. Starts like a champ now. All the headaches and money I dropped into trying to sort it out is laughable. I knew it had to be something simple. Almost bought a new IP
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