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  #1  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:11 AM
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David Brandson
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Defender Headlight Woes

Headlight Woes. Headlights went kaput and was left with "dim-dip" at both positions and high beams only on "flash" (pulling stalk towards me).

Read various stories about headlight switch, indicator switch and relay being the issues. Order the first two and replaced them. No changes, so I jumped the relay and got dip beams (regular beams) on both headlight switch positions. I can see at night now! But, still no Full/High beams.

It's currently -10C and has been snowing for the last two days. I don't have a garage, so I am spending lots of time doing research on the subject on the computer and not that much time wandering through the wiring system outside...

I did take the test light out to the headlight switch and indicator switch. Here is what I found:

The white plastic bit is the headlight switch and has the large blue and smaller red wire connecting. There is also a brown wire that connects to the hunk of solder between the two blue and red wires. At first position brown is hot (12V infeed). Second position (dim-dip) brown and red are hot. Third position (dip beams) brown, red, and blue are hot.

The indicator switch contacts for high beam can be seen at the top or right of the picture depending which way you see it. In the headlight switch third position (dip beams) I have power on both sides of the Full beam contact mechanism. However, when moving the indicator stalk forward to put Full Beams (High beams) on, it goes to ground. There is a contact on the bottom side that pulls away from the front contact as the visible contact makes contact. If I jump the contacts in the rest position I get Full beams (high beams). So it seems like I have a short somewhere... Any ideas?

Also as far as the indicator stalk wires go, no matter the position (two or three) of the headlight switch power is as follows:

Blue: Hot when Full beam contact in rest (middle) or flash position, nada when contact forward
Purple: Hot
Blue/White: Never hot
Blue/Red: Hot (bottom contact makes Blue hot)
Green (closest to purple): Hot (buzzes a relay when testing/hooked to oil pressure switch or something I read?)
Green (lower): Never hot
Little purple and black (hiding blue/red): Couldn't get the tester in there

An old post on another site mentioned the Blue/White is the Full/High Beam wire...so should I be getting power through this when indicator stalk is forward?

Looking for any input!

PS. I have an owners manual, with the dim-dip schematic in it, should I look at it more thoroughly? I didn't see much to give me any ideas...
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  #2  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:15 AM
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David Brandson
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Forgot to mention, original headlight switch contacts did the melty thing. New and old indicator stalks check out the same.
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  #3  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:17 AM
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Anthony Nelson
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Odd. Did you try wiring in the direct harness as well?

It could be a bad switch. If you still have the old one, cut of the leads and wire it to any 3 pos switch and see if that does anything.
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  #4  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 12:19 AM
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David Brandson
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Working/living 500 miles from home, and forgot to bring my electrical tools with me. Will have to stop by the store after work tomorrow and pick a few things up.

I was looking at the other indicator stalk and it appears that power should flow in through BLUE and out through BLUE/WHITE, but when I have the indicator stalk in the forward position I lose all power in that circuit. I must have a bad ground somewhere? Up at the headlights?
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  #5  
Old February 3rd, 2015, 05:30 AM
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Jason Lavender
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David:

Check out my post here:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...86&postcount=5

Particularly the last section regarding the antiquated "dip-dip relay" that seemed to affect some 80s-early-90s vehicles.
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