Defender class 3 hitch on the cheap? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 9th, 2014, 10:24 PM
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Ben
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Defender class 3 hitch on the cheap?

So, was looking for a defender trailer hitch for my 110 Ex MOD.
$250 seemed rather heavy, and before stopping by my local fabricator, I thought I'd shop step bumper mounted hitches. Seems the way to go... until...

I stumbled onto a 1992 mitsubishi montero hitch... looks like it was designed to bolt the same pintle hitch as the Ex MOD mod has. Measured up and it looks like it would fit. $80 instead of the big big $250. Curtis 13091 in this case. Though I am sure other manufacturers are out there.


Anyone know if this does indeed work? Am I missing something? Not designed to go under the pintle hitch obviously... but...

Thanks

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  #2  
Old November 9th, 2014, 10:34 PM
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Chris
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crossmember bolt pattern 88x44.5mm 3.5" X 2.75 so you might well be on to something.
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  #3  
Old November 9th, 2014, 10:41 PM
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Jason Crandall
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Nice find. I need this
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  #4  
Old November 9th, 2014, 10:44 PM
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There may well be a standard size to those things. I noticed ex mod pintles being sold as nato or something... Advertising many vehicle fitment. This might not be the best option... But still ... Ima order one (or similar) up... Once i go over the back of the rover in daylight.
I dont "need" it... But its a lot more usable than the pintle around the farm and boat ramp.

Were not the monteros in the JDF?

------ Follow up post added November 9th, 2014 10:54 PM ------

Nothing new under the sun

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anyo...-hitch.784552/
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  #5  
Old November 10th, 2014, 12:14 AM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Why not wait for the next batch from Jack?

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...=Hitch&page=17
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  #6  
Old November 10th, 2014, 12:20 AM
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too expensive i'm guessing.

another alternative is the pangolin hitch if it fits
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  #7  
Old November 10th, 2014, 06:03 AM
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Yea, im missing how a couple pieces of steel and a couple holes is over $30.

My adjustable drop ball mount was $25... A lot more welds and steel.
I'd zap one up myself but I sold my Mig in the move to Maryland a couple years ago.

Reciever tube is $15 at the local farm store. Probably have to buy at least a foot of steel for the base which would be another $30...negligable $ for consumables...maybe a drill bit... And i'd be in for making 2.

Dang it ... Defenders/series are supposed to be immune to land rover tax. Always used to be...
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  #8  
Old November 10th, 2014, 07:13 AM
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just weld up your own.
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  #9  
Old November 10th, 2014, 07:16 AM
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Good point ... Could buy a welding rig and still make out
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  #10  
Old November 10th, 2014, 05:35 PM
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Ben
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quick search shows that the pintle hitch is indeed standard.
there are a bunch of different styles of adapter. Some bolt straight to the back with a pigtail sticking out. Not a huge deal if you have the MOD bumperettes on the back.

So any hitch that would fit a cruiser or montero... insert your civ/mil vehicle, could very well fit the defender/one ten/ninety etc.

Ordered up the magnus version... found a discount... got it for $3.77 but it'll probably take a while to get here. We'll see.
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  #11  
Old November 18th, 2014, 05:40 PM
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Got my 93 (any non sport) Montero hitch. Fits perfectly. Came with a plug for it too. Stock bolts too long, supplied bolts too short and no nuts.
Cost $73 amazon free shipping. Magnus brand. Messy welds but sturdy.
Another 10 for good bolts i figure.

Sorry... Crappy pic... I had anti sieze all over my hands and its dark. In a hurry. Posting from phone at a gas station...

The fjx0 hitches looked like they might be too short and not clear the bumper. But there's an extra set of holes anyway. Put the backer plate on backwards to tale up some bolt slack and it extends down 1/4 inch or so for more support
Ta
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089ND6S8
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  #12  
Old November 18th, 2014, 06:16 PM
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Mercedes ml a bit sexier maybe

http://www.curtmfg.com/part/13018
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  #13  
Old November 19th, 2014, 08:50 AM
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Daylight pics with proper bolts

Lowers exit clearance, but it also comes down to protect the gas tank a bit...
Obviously doesn't lower overall clearance... Sticks out a bit, but no more than the bumperettes. Going to put a step on it for the safari door when installed.
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  #14  
Old December 31st, 2014, 08:25 PM
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Big thanks to Ben for finding this. Just received mine today and it's a perfect fit on my 90's crossmember.

Just needs a backing plate / reinforcement, but I already had that handy.

btw Ben - putting the backing plate on the front side of the crossmember sort of negates the purpose of the backing plate.
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  #15  
Old January 1st, 2015, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Big thanks to Ben for finding this. Just received mine today and it's a perfect fit on my 90's crossmember. Just needs a backing plate / reinforcement, but I already had that handy. btw Ben - putting the backing plate on the front side of the crossmember sort of negates the purpose of the backing plate.
Yes, you have to drop the tank and do it right!
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  #16  
Old January 1st, 2015, 09:45 AM
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Negatory on that backing plate. I have a 3/8" square on the reverse and the thing on the front is the pintle backing plate. That is. It was right where it is now... Just spun around.
There should be no need to drop the tank. There's plenty room if your components are like mine. I'll try to remember to take some pix.
I just put that pintle chain stay on the front to correct for bolts that were too long. Would hit the shoulder beore tight.
That said... Are the civillian crossmembers drilled the same way? They have a different trailer hitch pattern... But i have t seen them naked... I know mine has extra holes...
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  #17  
Old January 1st, 2015, 11:35 AM
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Oh good. Sorry to cause alarm.
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  #18  
Old January 1st, 2015, 11:47 AM
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fwiw any hitch that doesn't have ties forward to two holes through the frame @ the low point in the rear should be considered extremely light duty. Rear cross members are made from dinky 14 gauge steel and are easy as hell to twist or pull in a V if you do not have the forward braces like the NAS bumpers or the dixon bate setup use. Guess how I came by this knowledge..... see signature line
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  #19  
Old January 1st, 2015, 12:06 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I Agree with Doug, but even without tying it in to the frame rails, I'd recommend a bottom plate to bolt to the holes underneath the crossmember to distribute the load more.
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  #20  
Old January 1st, 2015, 01:25 PM
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Im not seeing as just bolting it around the corner would work. The frame rail is the only feasible and almost reasonable way to go. I have it for light duty. But... If it can, and has, pulled the army trailers, it can pull max rated load. They way just under a ton empty. THAT being said... I rarely see anyone pulling less than their rated load. The mounting slightly below shouldnt make much difference. But it will make a difference. I reccomend brakes for any trailer. I'm lovin the surge brakes on my trailer... The 5 flat connector makes it easy as pie.
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