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  #21  
Old September 21st, 2016, 01:54 PM
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Let me Google that for you.

Land Rover Workshop Manuals > TD5 Defender > GENERAL SPECIFICATION DATA > BRAKES
Quote:
Caliper AP Lockheed, four opposed pistons
Disc diameter 298 mm (11.73 in)
Disc thickness 90 - 14,1 mm (0.56in), 110/130 - 24mm (0.95 in)
Pad area 58 cm 2 (9.0 in 2 )
Total swept area 801,3 cm 2 (124.2 in 2)
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  #22  
Old September 21st, 2016, 01:56 PM
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Try these guys for the kit:

https://www.facebook.com/wlruk
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  #23  
Old September 21st, 2016, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Pic from slade in this thread. And yes, I don't forget anything rover related even from 13 years ago. Salisbury axles - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum [SIZE=1]
Sounds like, on the face of it, that everything is the same other than a wider rotor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serious One
discs and calipers from axle pictured above (Salisbury coil-sprung axle).

I happen to have these same calipers on my CrewCab, but we narrowed the spacer to accomodate the standard Range Rover vented rotors. The Salisbury rotors are VERY VERY hard to find, and are only available new. To purchase ONE rotor you are looking at about $650US.
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  #24  
Old September 21st, 2016, 02:11 PM
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How does that swept area compare to similar vehicles in the weight class?
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  #25  
Old September 21st, 2016, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
How does that swept area compare to similar vehicles in the weight class?
That is a big question. For vehicles of the era, I'm sure it is as good or better. These days everything has huge brakes and that is why they need huge rims. If you want huge brakes and rims, there are kits out there, as mentioned in the first post. If you want to stick with 16" rims, there is really no more room.
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  #26  
Old September 21st, 2016, 02:45 PM
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I've got 18" wheels and an LS. I will be doing a big brake kit before too long at least on the fronts. My plan was the Tarox from TMDTuning unless a better option comes up. I'd be up for trying the Ceika. I get that the stock brakes or stock brakes with different rotors and pads are good enough but these LS motors are way more power. I cruise at 80 instead of 70 now and I can still downshift and have plenty of additional passing power. I want a serious brake upgrade. For what it's worth I've bought some stuff from TMDTuning and have never had a problem. Matter of fact they just sent me the kit to convert the Recaro Cross Sportster seats to a tip up base.
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  #27  
Old September 21st, 2016, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
My understanding is their kit lets you use stock Defender brakes.
They make a big brake kit too for about $1,000 more and I assume it involves a different mounting bracket on their Defender-like swivel ball housing machined from aluminum
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  #28  
Old September 21st, 2016, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb View Post
They make a big brake kit too for about $1,000 more and I assume it involves a different mounting bracket on their Defender-like swivel ball housing machined from aluminum
Okay. They must not advertise it. Their page says "You will need to supply brake calipers, brake pads, brake pad hardware, brake rotors. We recommended parts for front brakes are from 1994 to current Defender 90 and 110 models ( vented rotors)."
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  #29  
Old September 21st, 2016, 04:38 PM
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While doing a little poking around on the subject last week I found that Red Winches makes a cheap relocation bracket that allows you to run a front 4 piston caliper on the rear axle. It might be a nice little upgrade on the cheap that still lets you run a 16" wheel. I was going to give them a try on one of the projects I have in.

-Ash

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  #30  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb View Post
Forbyn Bros. makes a big brake kit for Series vehicles which I think may work on a Defender since that's the calipers and rotors you use on their standard setup. Call Greg at 530-626-7360 because it isn't listed on their site. www.forbynbros.com
I just did their rear drum to disc conversion and it was less than $1000 all in. Greg sent me a parts lists of what I'd need and I called Eric at Luck8 and hooked me up. Only funky thing is you have to use 6 bolt drive flanges from Series trucks.


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  #31  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:35 PM
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I read somewhere on LRO magazine of a group in the uk whom had developed a kit to install front 4 piston calipers on the rear axle, to include vented front rotor set up on the rear. this allowed for 4 wheel vented rotors and 4 wheel 4 piston calipers.
I think if you added hydro boost to this equation you will have one sure stopping rover.
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  #32  
Old September 21st, 2016, 06:43 PM
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Don't understand the need for bigger brakes in the rear. Given the f/r bias, without also increasing the fronts, it would be little/no return on one's time and $.
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  #33  
Old September 21st, 2016, 07:02 PM
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Yes. Rear brakes do very little. You would just be locking up the rears long before the fronts.
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  #34  
Old September 21st, 2016, 07:28 PM
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Unless you are hauling heavy weight the front calipers on the rear seems useless to add.
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  #35  
Old September 21st, 2016, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash View Post
While doing a little poking around on the subject last week I found that Red Winches makes a cheap relocation bracket that allows you to run a front 4 piston caliper on the rear axle. It might be a nice little upgrade on the cheap that still lets you run a 16" wheel. I was going to give them a try on one of the projects I have in.

-Ash

Nice find, think that these could be used to replace ftc3306 in a drum to disc conversion?
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  #36  
Old September 21st, 2016, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Don't understand the need for bigger brakes in the rear. Given the f/r bias, without also increasing the fronts, it would be little/no return on one's time and $.
The rears suck ass. The pad design is terrible and they do very little. Throw some 4 piston calipers with pinned pads back there and an adjustable proportioning valve and you'd be in business.
Not sure larger brakes are really needed with the LS conversion though. Your brakes don't care if you're doing 60 with a RV8 or an LS.
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  #37  
Old September 21st, 2016, 08:28 PM
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Forbyn brothers do something. Aluminum hub. Willwood brake components. Seems like collaboration between Forbyn and Timm Cooper. Overall likely to be well thought out. Unknown price. 13" rotors. Pictures clearer on a coiler (not leafer) axle.

https://www.facebook.com/forbynbrosllc/?fref=ts

Forbyn Bros. LLC.
Go to forbynbros@gmail.com to order or call 530-626-7360

Mail to:
Forbyn Bros. LLC.
6375 Bellanca Lane
Placerville Ca. 95667

I haven't talked to them, just always curious to see what Timm is up to.
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  #38  
Old September 21st, 2016, 09:45 PM
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I was going to recommend wilwood components for anyone taking this on as a fabrication project. They have so many size options for rotors, hats, calipers, master cylinders, pedal boxes, that you can just about source everything minus caliper brackets from them.
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  #39  
Old September 21st, 2016, 11:39 PM
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Thanks for the recommendation. I just shot the Forbyn Bros an email to see what's available. But that's exactly what I was looking for! Other options using a US brake company like Wilwood.
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  #40  
Old September 21st, 2016, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
The rears suck ass. The pad design is terrible and they do very little. Throw some 4 piston calipers with pinned pads back there and an adjustable proportioning valve and you'd be in business. Not sure larger brakes are really needed with the LS conversion though. Your brakes don't care if you're doing 60 with a RV8 or an LS.
^^^^ This ^^^^
In my opinion. (note it's just an opinion, no expert) big brakes are for bringing large engines with 4 wheels and a seat down from 200mph.
They are designed for constant braking before curves. They allow for larger pad friction contact and also to dissipate heat better.

I have Stoptech slotted rotors on both my Rovers. Stock replacement drop in, no modifications. I don't take the tollroad often, but when I do, I typically drive my RR north of 100mph. But I also don't encounter situations when I have to stand on the brakes. A mile before my exit I'm off the throttle.

I would never think of taking the Disco 1 up to those speeds. Too squirrelly. Therefore, to take a Defender up to those speeds to need those brakes just seems a little crazy to me.
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