Defender 200tdi turbo studs & nuts - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 13th, 2017, 01:26 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Defender 200tdi turbo studs & nuts

Decided to remove the turbo for a decoke and have the cast iron bits ceramic coated. Needless to say most of these jobbers are pretty well stuck on. I've had some success with mapp gas and a soak in PB blaster. In classic LR fashion, one of the studs snapped on me last night. I looked up the part number and the prices are nutso. The nuts seem to be specialized upon inspection, but the p/n look up tells me they're plain ol' m8 nuts.

It would be nice to use new hardware after all this extra work. Any advice from people that have gone down this road before me? Quit whingeing and shell out the extra money, or is there a cheaper route?
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  #2  
Old December 13th, 2017, 01:34 PM
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I was able to get new studs and nuts at Auto Zone. They are nothing special. The nuts are self locking type (not nylon).


If you want to be super fancy you can get copper nuts like these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M8-x-1-25-C...-/232342161838
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  #3  
Old December 13th, 2017, 01:48 PM
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Gerad Davis
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That's good to know. m8x32mm seemed hard to come by during my internet search. I figure m8x35mm could still fit. Hopefully I can get the rest of these off without much ado and see what I can't find at the hardware store.
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  #4  
Old December 13th, 2017, 02:56 PM
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Robert Davis
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Fastenal
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  #5  
Old December 13th, 2017, 03:05 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Fastenal
Yep, I looked there but their selection is limited. The studs I'm looking to replace are all M8 with lengths at 25, 32 & 48. Fastenal only has them in 30, 40, 45 & 65.

That's probably what caused me to ask here. The differences between what LR is using and what's widely available had me scratching my head. 32mm and 48mm are weird lengths.
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  #6  
Old December 13th, 2017, 03:15 PM
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When you replace the stud, my recommendation is to use nickel-based antisieze on the stud.

The nickel-based antisieze (Permatex 77124) has much better / longer lasting corrosion protection than graphite-based anti-sieze at elevated temperatures. It's my favorite antisieze to use on exhaust components.

Replacing the nuts with bronze or brass nuts and washers will prevent the common problem where the nuts sieze onto the studs
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  #7  
Old December 13th, 2017, 04:29 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Bah, I'm so effed. Spent some time with this turd over lunch. More snapped studs. I think it's a lost cause at this point. I'll give it one more go with some oxy/acc gas but it's not looking good at this point
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  #8  
Old December 13th, 2017, 04:38 PM
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When I replaced my turbo last year I got all-new studs and nuts. Studs (LR009704) are 68 cents/piece and copper locking nuts are 1.7$/piece (WYH500060) (Original Land Rover is $30 for a pack of 10, that's the most expensive option). I didn't think that those prices were nutso at all, are you getting different prices?

And yes, the nuts are special (they are copper and have an oval threaded hole that locks them in place).
I sincerely doubt fastenal is any cheaper and I doubt fastenal can get you a correct copper locknut that will stay in place on a hot exhaust manifold.

------ Follow up post added December 13th, 2017 02:42 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by east high View Post
More snapped studs. I think it's a lost cause at this point. I'll give it one more go with some oxy/acc gas but it's not looking good at this point
It's OK, I snapped 2 out of 4 on mine, one accidentally and the other one on purpose as it was hard getting to. Once the nuts are off (unbolted or snapped) and turbo is removed, the remainder of studs come out of the manifold without too much of a fight.
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  #9  
Old December 13th, 2017, 04:43 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vedrover View Post
When I replaced my turbo last year I got all-new studs and nuts. Studs (LR009704) are 68 cents/piece and copper locking nuts are 1.7$/piece (WYH500060) (Original Land Rover is $30 for a pack of 10, that's the most expensive option). I didn't think that those prices were nutso at all, are you getting different prices?

And yes, the nuts are special (they are copper and have an oval threaded hole that locks them in place).
I sincerely doubt fastenal is any cheaper and I doubt fastenal can get you a correct copper locknut that will stay in place on a hot exhaust manifold.
The studs you mentioned look to be head to manifold studs. Those are cheap. I was talking about RTC6093 and RTC6094. Rovers North has RTC6093 listed at $47.00. You can get them cheaper across the pond, but they're still around £11.

------ Follow up post added December 13th, 2017 01:51 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vedrover View Post
It's OK, I snapped 2 out of 4 on mine, one accidentally and the other one on purpose as it was hard getting to. Once the nuts are off (unbolted or snapped) and turbo is removed, the remainder of studs come out of the manifold without too much of a fight.
Let's hope. The first stud to break broke a second time deep in the turbo housing. It was the bottom stud on the down pipe. I had to cut another one off because the nut rounded off. It was that little bugger between the turbo and manifold. I was hoping a bit a mapp and some mole grips would do the trick, but the stud is starting to crumble. I'm going to give it one more shot with some hotter gas.

Might be time to hock the farm and get a VGT.
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  #10  
Old December 13th, 2017, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east high View Post
I was talking about RTC6093 and RTC6094.
Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking about those. Didn't have to worry about those as I just dropped in new Garrett unit that came with these. The studs themselves are nothing special, though.
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  #11  
Old December 13th, 2017, 05:12 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vedrover View Post
Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking about those. Didn't have to worry about those as I just dropped in new Garrett unit that came with these. The studs themselves are nothing special, though.
No problem. Where'd you source your new turbo?
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  #12  
Old December 13th, 2017, 09:52 PM
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From LRDirect.com. Brand new unit costed me 680USD at the time. Looks like prices went up quite a bit now...
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  #13  
Old December 13th, 2017, 10:47 PM
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John B.
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It is much cheaper to buy a CHRA cartridge. A couple of hundred for a stock one or three hundred for an upgraded one. It is pretty rare to need to change the housings.
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  #14  
Old December 14th, 2017, 12:16 AM
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At the time I was looking at ~$350 for a Melett cartridge vs $680 for a complete Garrett unit and decided not to gamble. Keeping the original unit and might just rebuild it with the cartridge and keep it as a spare. If I had to do it today, I might have gone the cartridge route, but Melett units are still not cheap, certainly not in the couple hundred $ range, pounds maybe, which cartridges are you referring to, Red90?
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  #15  
Old December 14th, 2017, 10:18 AM
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https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/shop/search.php?q=200tdi

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbochar...8AAOSwymxVMLbd

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-M...MAAOSwX61ZEHeM

https://www.turbocharger.uk.com/prod...fender_2.5.htm

Complete Turbos.
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...er-c2x20634400
ETC8751 TURBOCHARGER | shop | www.lrseries.com
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  #16  
Old December 14th, 2017, 10:25 AM
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I used stainless steel studs on my turbo rebuild. They don't see a lot of torque, so the 316 stainless was a natural choice. Not expensive, either. Caveat is to use brass/bronze on stainless to prevent the risk of galling when using stainless nuts.

I didn't really see any reason why I needed to go with a land-rover specific turbo fastener part....especially since fastener tech has gone way beyond the original factory parts.
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