Defender 200tdi Turbo Garrett model number? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 16th, 2016, 07:43 PM
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Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
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Defender 200tdi Turbo Garrett model number?

Hi,


Does anyone know the turbo name/part number or model number for the Defender 200TDI?


Does anyone know a vendor who sells kits for the rebuild?


Thanks,


Michael
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  #2  
Old March 17th, 2016, 06:42 AM
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I had good experience talking to Tim at Dingocroft.com. Higher$ items I still like to speak to the guy in the other side of the line to make sure we're in the same pages.
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Old March 17th, 2016, 07:58 AM
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Yours should have a metal id tag on it.
https://www.btnturbo.com/parts/model...discovery.aspx
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  #4  
Old March 18th, 2016, 02:41 AM
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I think I am going to scrap rebuilding idea. Bolts and nuts are just stuck solid. Been Kroiling for weeks. Tried heating up with butane torch but no luck.

I suppose I will have to replace the entire manifolds along with the turbo when turbo goes bad? There is noticeable play on the shaft that I can feel but how much free play is normal on the turbine?
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Old March 18th, 2016, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
I think I am going to scrap rebuilding idea. Bolts and nuts are just stuck solid. Been Kroiling for weeks. Tried heating up with butane torch but no luck. I suppose I will have to replace the entire manifolds along with the turbo when turbo goes bad? There is noticeable play on the shaft that I can feel but how much free play is normal on the turbine?
You should be able to reuse your old exhaust manifold.
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  #6  
Old March 18th, 2016, 06:51 AM
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Mine was in the same condition. I even let a local machine shop give it a try. I had my flywheel in for resurfacing and happened to mentioned how tough of a time I was having pulling it a part. They said they'd like to give it a try but it was a no go without risking damage. I sold if for parts.
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Old March 18th, 2016, 07:39 AM
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I have one ready for rebuild No frozen bolts.

------ Follow up post added March 18th, 2016 07:39 AM ------

Complete with manifold portion
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  #8  
Old March 18th, 2016, 09:03 AM
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Kroil won't help you there I'm afraid. You need copious amounts of heat that a butane (assuming you mean propane) torch just won't deliver. A MAPP torch might do the job, otherwise try oxy acetylene to get them cherry hot. Then they should break free. If you don't have an OA rig, try taking them to a friendly shop who will heat the bolts for you one at a time.while you remove them. Or, pay them to take them out.

A small amount of side to side play is normal. Look for axial play (in and out) in the shaft and look a the compressor blades for damage to the leading edge or evidence that it has been contacting the compressor housing. Also, check for oil contamination in the turbo outlet pipework.




Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
I think I am going to scrap rebuilding idea. Bolts and nuts are just stuck solid. Been Kroiling for weeks. Tried heating up with butane torch but no luck.

I suppose I will have to replace the entire manifolds along with the turbo when turbo goes bad? There is noticeable play on the shaft that I can feel but how much free play is normal on the turbine?
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #9  
Old March 20th, 2016, 01:38 PM
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Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
A small amount of side to side play is normal. Look for axial play (in and out) in the shaft and look a the compressor blades for damage to the leading edge or evidence that it has been contacting the compressor housing. Also, check for oil contamination in the turbo outlet pipework.
Thanks for the information!

The threads on nuts and bolts on the turbo aren't that rusted visually but it is just the placement of these things doesn't allow proper delivery of the torque. I was able to loosen the turbo from the exhaust manifold and I am down to one nut on the downpipe that I have no straight access to it. I bet you know which nut I am talking about. Any tip?

I will check for the axial play later today.

------ Follow up post added March 20th, 2016 10:46 AM ------

Just as a resource for future reference:

turbo-product
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  #10  
Old March 20th, 2016, 02:04 PM
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John B.
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On the play issue there are very specific specs. Because they use plain bearings they must have play. You need to measure as there is no way to tell be feel unless you did this all the time.
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  #11  
Old March 20th, 2016, 03:31 PM
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Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
On the play issue there are very specific specs. Because they use plain bearings they must have play. You need to measure as there is no way to tell be feel unless you did this all the time.
Understandably, that is why I am inclined toward rebuiding it so I am not guessing or trying to feel if it is right. But i need to take this apart first to rebuild it so... down to one nut to get all the manifolds off of the turbo now.

Having said that, out of impulse, just bought a VNT from Allisport.
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  #12  
Old March 20th, 2016, 04:42 PM
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Problem solved
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  #13  
Old March 22nd, 2016, 01:56 AM
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Michael
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Now should I get the head redone?

This hobby of ours sure does bring the disease out of us.
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  #14  
Old March 22nd, 2016, 07:23 AM
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Take it off, inspect, clean, new head gasket. If its not broke don't fix it.
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