Defender 110 Tie Rod Steering rod change - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old December 12th, 2011, 09:19 AM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
Defender 110 Tie Rod Steering rod change

I am going to be upgrading to a Rockware Tie Rod. I have a couple questions:

1. Does anybody know what size the lock nut is?
2. Do most people use a press of some sort to remove it or does a rubber mallet do the trick.


Thanks in advance for the help.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old December 12th, 2011, 09:26 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,495
Registry
I am guessing that you are asking how to remove the old tie rod ends? You need a tie rod end removal tool. You can get one at just about any auto parts store. They are cheap. Beating on tie rods can damage other steering parts, so use the proper tool.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old December 12th, 2011, 09:37 AM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
So once I remove the retaining pin and the nut I need to use a "press" to pop it out?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old December 12th, 2011, 09:55 AM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
You use a "pickle" fork, carefull not to damage the boot. They are usually about $10. Or you can use a mallet, sledge, or hammer to tap (tap) the sides of the knuckle where it mounts. I've seen guys use two hammers to alternately tap the sides and it pops right out.

If you are replacing the tie rod end, just hit the threaded end with a hammer, but if it doesn't budge after a few hits, be careful. I'd personally try to save the rod ends as spares.

The nut on the TRE is 17mm or 19mm - me thinks 19mm.
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old December 12th, 2011, 10:00 AM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
Like one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch...ator-1759.html
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old December 12th, 2011, 10:17 AM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Yep!
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old December 12th, 2011, 10:34 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,495
Registry
Not a fan of the pickle fork type tool, but they work OK. Do not recommend Jonathan's whack-with-a-big-hammer method unless there is no other way and you have to do it to get home from a trail breakdown. Nor should you hammer downward or sideways on the steering shaft as you can damage it or your steering box. The pickle fork directs energy laterally which reduces the chance that you will bust anything except maybe your knuckles if you miss with the hammer. the pickle fork tool will certainly destroy the TRE boot at the very least and should be used when you are replacing with another TRE.
I way prefer the press type tool that you fix to the TRE/steering arm and tighten a bolt which pops the TRE out of the taper without stressing anything. Only about $15 and much easier on the psyche as well as the automobile. This type will not damage either the TRE or the steering arm, so if you have to remove a perfectly good TRE, you can reuse it.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old December 12th, 2011, 10:42 AM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
So One of these http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...ller-1752.html ??
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old December 12th, 2011, 11:15 AM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Do not recommend Jonathan's whack-with-a-big-hammer method unless there is no other way and you have to do it to get home from a trail breakdown.
You are no fun Bill.
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old December 12th, 2011, 11:44 AM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Whack with TWO hammers. Hold one against the side of the arm where the balljoint goes in and hit the opposite side of the arm (not the ball joint itself!) with the other hammer. Pops right off, no boot damage, no issues. The presses suck and the pickle fork ruins the boots.

Ron
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old December 12th, 2011, 11:45 AM
Ren Ching's Avatar
Ren Ching
Status: Offline
Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Downtown
Posts: 4,696
Registry
I like the Draper style tool sold in the UK mags. I got one @ MAR a few years ago and I don't leave home without it. Failing that, BFH method works just fine with the nut screwed up to the end of the thread so that you don't mushroom the thread. Only really matters if you plan to re-use the thing but it also gives you a larger surface area to whack on. Though, never really thought about the damage it could cause to a steering box or spindly drop arm etc. If the nut gets stuck on there are ways to deal with that too, a little pressure back into the taper will stop the the ball from spinning. The pictured puller previously posted is in my experience a bit too big to grab the rover steering arm sockets. At least it is on mine.

I had to slightly enlarge the fork on the Draper tool to make it fit some of the rover steering components. Forget what, maybe it was the drop arm joint on my old RRC.

Pickle forks are for Neanderthal shop monkeys...present company excluded of course. I keep one in the tool box for special cases.
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old December 12th, 2011, 11:48 AM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Whack with TWO hammers. Hold one against the side of the arm where the balljoint goes in and hit the opposite side of the arm (not the ball joint itself!) with the other hammer. Pops right off, no boot damage, no issues.

Ron
That's what I tried to say....

------ Follow up post added December 12th, 2011 11:48 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
Pickle forks are for Neanderthal shop monkeys...present company excluded of course. I keep one in the tool box for special cases.
Hey now, easy
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old December 12th, 2011, 11:52 AM
dchapman
Status: Offline
Daniel Chapman
1999 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: VA
Posts: 759
I've been wrenching on these trucks for a long time, and I've never once use a pickle fork to remove the tie rod. Those tools are a joke. They'll rip the boot more times than not. Besides, once you buy that shitty tool, you could have just bought a new tie rod end (which you should do anyway).

Just take a hammer, bigger the better, and hit the tie rod where the tie rod end threads into the shaft. You're not going to bend it or damage it in any way other than maybe chipping some paint. It will pop right out of it's socket.

The bigger problem you may face is unthreading the tie rod end from the tie rod. If anti-seize was not used during the installation, and depending on how long its been since installation, that thing could be rusted in place.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old December 12th, 2011, 11:56 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,495
Registry
I have the kind that DB posted a pic of. They double the push or halve the effort required to turn the bolt depending upon whether you are a democrat or a republican. I have never had to hit a TRE or any other part of the vehicle's anatomy with a hammer when using that. If you use an air impact wrench to turn the bolt, it will take about half a second and BANG! It pops loose.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old December 12th, 2011, 07:27 PM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
Thanks for all the help. Bought this tool at autozone for 14 bucks. Had the rod out in 10 min. Going to take Dan's advice and get new ends. Thanks again.

It's a long story how it got bent, but in involves a friend who needed to get out of the woods because he had a torn hamstring and a fractured femur.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1453224181.png
Views:	87
Size:	862.2 KB
ID:	44655  
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old December 13th, 2011, 01:01 PM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
Which anti seize would you recommend?
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old December 13th, 2011, 01:02 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,741
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Which anti seize would you recommend?
Any generic or NAPA brand would probably do the trick.
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old December 13th, 2011, 01:21 PM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
I will hit napa up. I am surprised this was not previous thread. I guess I over estimated the job.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old December 13th, 2011, 03:08 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Online
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,225
Registry
Here is what you do....

1) Loosen nut.

2) Hold anvil (other hammer or such) on one side of steering arm (the think the tie rod end goes into).

3) Whack the other side of the arm opposite the tie rod end a few times with a hammer.

The tie rod end will pop out.... Hard to believe I know... But it always works.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old December 13th, 2011, 06:16 PM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
tjfslaughter
Status: Offline
thomas
Burbon
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
Posts: 4,563
The new ends come in Wednesday, the NJLR guys provided me with instruction on the alignment.
__________________
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
110, defender 110

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NAS 110 Defender 6/25 (Canada) Defender110 For Sale - Vehicles 1 January 19th, 2008 09:42 PM
NAS 110 Roll Cage and other Defender Parts SafariHP For Sale - Parts 19 May 30th, 2006 03:12 PM
NAS Defender 110 lrnasd90 For Sale - Vehicles 9 October 29th, 2005 02:01 PM
Jump seats from Defender 110 Mooreland cloth good condition. Set of 4 inboard facing Northface For Sale - Parts 2 August 1st, 2005 05:20 PM
Tie Rod problems ... Help! Palmer Defender Technical Discussions 3 January 14th, 2004 08:41 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:53 PM.


Copyright