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  #1  
Old June 17th, 2005, 04:26 PM
tmore
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Tom More
1995 D90
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Dead Again

A couple of weeks ago I had post about my defender not starting and then onec it started it would occassionally stall. I replaced the ignition module and it started up fine and then I replaced the stepper motor and all seemed well for about a day...

What is happening is the vehicle runs fine then loses all power but doesn't immediately stall.. Whith the clutch in I can not get the engine to rev.. eventually the engine stalls. If I wait for an hour or so it will start up and run fine for a while.. It seems to happen randomly..
Any suggestions would be appreciated
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  #2  
Old June 17th, 2005, 04:35 PM
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Mike Hippert
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Low fuel pressure? Bad fuel return regulator? Bad TPS? Does it happen after it warms up? Could be a bad fuel temp or coolant temp sensor? Just some quick ideas, any engine codes?
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  #3  
Old June 17th, 2005, 04:38 PM
tmore
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Tom More
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No codes.. Today it happened when hot but it seemed to run fine while hot all week and the last time it died it was pour rain and pretty cool out.
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  #4  
Old June 17th, 2005, 04:48 PM
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Rod Hayward
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It sounds so familiar, mine did the same stuff until about a year ago. Always at the most inopportune moments too. Damn, that was frustrating! I finally discovered that my 90 was posessed!
Just kidding, ha ha. I could never figure mine out and eventually took it in to the guy who does work on my other vehicles (not a rover guy). He messed around with it and said he could find nothing wrong. But the problem went away (and has not been back). I went back and asked him what he had done. He said the only work he had done was to clean up and tighten some of the connectors on my coil that seemed loose and said he thought that might have been the cure.
I know it doesn't sound like a miracle cure, but your problem sounds so similar to what I was experiencing that I thought I'd share my experience.

good luck,

Rod
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  #5  
Old June 17th, 2005, 04:53 PM
tmore
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Tom More
1995 D90
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Thanks Rod
I have had the vehicle for about 5 yrs and until recently it had very few problems.. Over the couple of months it has been a nightmare.. Iforgot to mention in the first post that I also replaced the coil, cap, rotor and wires.. I am at a loss for what to look at next.. I my foirst post someone said that it looks liek my "Replace Engine" light probably has come on, I am beginning to think they are right or even worse the replace vehicle light may be light when my wife sees how much I have paid in towing and parts bills over the past 4 weeks..
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  #6  
Old June 17th, 2005, 05:07 PM
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Tom, mines in pieces right now while I finish up on an engine swap. I'm not that far from you, so if there's another part you want to try out I'd be happy to enroll you in my loaner program until I'm to where I need the part again.
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  #7  
Old June 17th, 2005, 05:13 PM
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Tom More
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Thanks Rod... what engine are you swappind in, and what are your plans for the old one?
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  #8  
Old June 17th, 2005, 05:26 PM
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I'm putting in a 4.6 (long engine). I thought I'd sit on my other engine until I could pick up another 90 in need of an engine (having rebuilt mine in the meantime) and I'd stick it in there. My old engine has about 110k on it. It's not in bad shape, I was just tired of being passed by VW microbuses on the way up to Eisenhower tunnel.
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  #9  
Old June 17th, 2005, 07:13 PM
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SO it's either fuel or spark. As intermittant as it sounds I would check and clean all the wires that connect to the cap as Rod said. There is 1 wire there (I think it's white with black strips) that runs to the ECU to "tell" the ECU to open the injectors. If this wire isn't on good then the engine will dies and it'll dies fast!
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  #10  
Old June 17th, 2005, 07:19 PM
tmore
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Tom More
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Thanks Mike

I replaced the cap, rotor and coil and when I did this I replaced all of the connections with solder on ring terminals.. When I can get it back home I am going to try to trace the wires back and look for damage..
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  #11  
Old June 17th, 2005, 07:55 PM
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Chris Davis
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Tom,

I am in Boulder and work in Denver--I would be happy to take a look one day after work (or if you are up around Boulder, I would be happy to check it out this weekend). Just let me know--
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  #12  
Old June 19th, 2005, 02:06 AM
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Brian Jenkinson
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Tom,

post what the problem was when you figure it out. I would swing by and look at it, but I am new to defenders and would not be much help/information. but if you need some help give me a call.

Brian
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  #13  
Old June 20th, 2005, 10:20 AM
tmore
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Tom More
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After tracing wires I found a set that had got too close to the ehaust mainifold, the split loom was melted but the wires didn't look bad, to be on the safe side I soldered in a splice for each wire... It looks better but didn't seem to help. After looking at everything I could think of I drove aroung my neiborhood about a thousand times until it finally died, and this time it won't restart after cooling down.. I can crank for ever and it doesn't even try to fire..
Here is what I know: I am getting a spark, I pulled some plugs and they all seem to be producing a strong strong, regular spark.
I am getting fuel flow past the flilter, I pulled the line and turned the key on and filled up a gas can..

So I am guessing that that leaves me with the fuel isn't making it into the rail or the injectors aren't injecting????

Any suggestions on how to verify this?
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  #14  
Old June 20th, 2005, 01:02 PM
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There is no easy way to see if an injector is firing, the pulse is to short to measuer on a volt meter and the injectors are kinda a pain to pull but, I would trace the white with black stripped wire from the coil all the way to the ECU, if that comes disconnected the ECU stops firing, everything else just tells the ecu how long or short to open the injectors. There should be a resistor in line and it will be near the MAF.
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  #15  
Old June 20th, 2005, 02:33 PM
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Tom More
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Any idea of what the impedance of the resistor should be?
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  #16  
Old June 20th, 2005, 04:43 PM
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I think I remember someone saying it changes depending on the distance between the MAF and the Plenum. In Differnt contries there are different configs depending on right hand or left hand drive, IIRC.
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  #17  
Old June 21st, 2005, 10:11 AM
tmore
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Tom More
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quick update, I checked the Tune resistor wire from the coil to the resistor and it seems fine. The actual resistor measured 5700 ohnms which was higher than expected from reading earlier posts. I put a POT in line set to the resistance listed in an earlier post and still nothing...

I think I am giving up and getting it towed in to a shop... I will let everyone know hat they find??
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  #18  
Old February 14th, 2006, 05:45 PM
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Antonios Hadjigeorgalis
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Tom, did you ever resolve this problem? Mine has been doing the same thing only I can start it back up after I hear the fuel pump relay drop out, about 30s - 1min. Happens really randomly too, I know what you went thru.
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  #19  
Old February 16th, 2006, 01:08 PM
tmore
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Tom More
1995 D90
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Sorry for the late reply, I have been out of the country..

I don't know for 100% sure what exactly was causing the problem but here are the issues taht I did find.

I had broken my motor mounts on a trip to Moab earlier in the year and had damage a wiring harness

The second theory is I had some pretty dirty and loose contacts on the igition module plugs

and the third, that Jeff at JC's rovers found and fixed for me, was that I had a non original key in the crankshaft that holds the timing gear and harmonic balancer in place.. This key was not the right size and was very worn, which allowed the timing to wander..

Knock on wood, I have not had this problem suface since mid summer..

I have had plenty of other issues though, and am looking for a motor rebuilt or swap.. If anyone has any good sources I would love to hear about them..

Tom
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