Dash/Gauge wiring assistance needed - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 26th, 2012, 12:32 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Unhappy Dash/Gauge wiring assistance needed

Hi All,
So I decided to upgrade my temp and oil gauge. I bought the versions recommended on the master list here.
I installed the temp gauge and followed the wiring diagram in the photos. All seems well but the VDO sender was wrong so I am waiting for a new sender.

I moved on to oil gauge. Got it all connected and then the white lead lit like a fuse and burned all the way back to the connector. F!.

I sat down today to re-wire the mess. Got everything together and turned it on. All the lights work on the right side gauges. NO lights work in gauges over steering wheel.
And the lights dont shut off.
I have two wires I'm not sure about where they connect. From oil gauge I have the new white lead and I have the red/white stripe that is power for the gauge lights.
When I plugged the white oil lead into the triangular female and the red/white into the other triangular female (brown out wire) the oil gauge bounced to max.

Can anyone give me any tips/direction/help? I do not have any tester.

Thanks

/ss
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  #2  
Old September 26th, 2012, 01:02 PM
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Bill Adams
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Gauges in general take a switched hot to the IGN lead on the back of the gauge. From there it goes out to the sender and the sender to ground. Some senders have an isolated ground, thus two prongs on the sender. The gauge reads the voltage and displays it on a scale calibrated to degrees. Sender is simply a thing that offers resistance to the current flow based on pressure or temperature variation.
I would hazard a guess that you have the wire wrong way round. It's a 1 out of 2 shot, so your luck is bound to change.
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  #3  
Old September 26th, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover110 View Post
Hi All,

Can anyone give me any tips/direction/help? I do not have any tester.

Thanks

/ss
Go to walmart or someplace and get a tester. They are like $5-10.
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  #4  
Old September 26th, 2012, 01:46 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Problem is I don't know what to be testing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Go to walmart or someplace and get a tester. They are like $5-10.
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  #5  
Old September 26th, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Bill has explained how it works in detail above. If you cannot understand from that description, you should take some time to learn about basic electrical circuits first or get someone in to help you out. It sounds like you have fried some wiring and it will need some investigation to make it right.
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  #6  
Old September 26th, 2012, 02:37 PM
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If your white wire melted to the connector, it was connected directly to +12V hot, no fuse.

Trace the white wire all the way back to the battery. Fix everything else that has melted along the way.
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Old September 26th, 2012, 02:43 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Thanks for the input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
If your white wire melted to the connector, it was connected directly to +12V hot, no fuse.

Trace the white wire all the way back to the battery. Fix everything else that has melted along the way.
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  #8  
Old September 26th, 2012, 06:27 PM
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The gauge lights work off a different circuit than the gauge itself. The lights are daisy chained so if you have no lights on the main gauge pack then you need to trace that wire back to the fuse. For that matter have you checked all of the fuses?
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  #9  
Old September 26th, 2012, 06:39 PM
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I saw that the lights were daisy chained. I didnt check the fuses yet but will next.
THANKS for reminding me

Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
The gauge lights work off a different circuit than the gauge itself. The lights are daisy chained so if you have no lights on the main gauge pack then you need to trace that wire back to the fuse. For that matter have you checked all of the fuses?
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  #10  
Old September 27th, 2012, 07:45 AM
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Let me re-phrase my question.

I need to close up my dash.

I need to know the following before doing it.
I have the white lead from the oil pressure gauge and the red/white stripe wire for the lights. they both have male bullet connectors.

Can anyone tell me where they go?

Thanks
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  #11  
Old September 28th, 2012, 09:26 AM
Rover110
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Steve
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So, today I put hints together. The gauges all work except temp, which is not connected to sender yet, and oil.
None of the gauge lights are working. Replaced a dead fuse to low effect. Chris suggested relays.
When I plug the oil gauge in it goes to max.
Cheers



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover110 View Post
Let me re-phrase my question.

I need to close up my dash.

I need to know the following before doing it.
I have the white lead from the oil pressure gauge and the red/white stripe wire for the lights. they both have male bullet connectors.

Can anyone tell me where they go?

Thanks
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  #12  
Old September 28th, 2012, 09:34 AM
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If you have both the light hot and the gauge switched hot connected to the gauge terminals, yes it will peg when you turn the key.
There should be at least three terminals on the back of the gauge; switched hot in, hot out to sender, case lighting, and a possible fourth, case ground. Your white wire with red tracer if it is lighting should connect to the lighting terminal. The white sender wire coming from the sensor should go to the switched hot out. You are missing the switched hot coming in, and maybe a case ground.
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  #13  
Old September 28th, 2012, 09:38 AM
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Steve
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Ok. Well I'm guessing at things now. I took the ganged light wired and thought I plugged it into the correct female which is a king of triple receptacle with the same color wire.
As for oil gauge same thing. I took the white lead and ran it into the female triple with white white leading to it.
Only place left as far as I can see is triple with a brown wire.
Thank for the input.



Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If you have both the light hot and the gauge switched hot connected to the gauge terminals, yes it will peg when you turn the key.
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  #14  
Old September 28th, 2012, 10:51 AM
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How about a picture.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #15  
Old September 28th, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Steve
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I'll try and get one.
Found 2 dead 5 amp fuses.
Want to re-look at the oil gauge wiring photo on the vdo list

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
How about a picture.
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  #16  
Old September 28th, 2012, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover110 View Post
Ok. Well I'm guessing at things now..
Please go buy a multi-meter and check what wires do what and print out a copy of the wiring schematic for the truck.... Guessing and wiring is not a good thing to do.
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  #17  
Old September 28th, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Bill Adams
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I found this on the VDO site.
The terminal marked S is for your white wire from the sender. The "+" terminal is switched (key on) power. The third terminal under the threaded stud is case ground. The case ground stud can be used for a jumper wire to one of the light socket terminals; doesn't matter which one. Or you can run a separate ground wire to one of the light socket terminals.
I cannot explain it any other way and the link to the wiring diagram is all I can do.
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1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
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  #18  
Old September 28th, 2012, 01:37 PM
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Steve
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Thatis awesome. When I get back I will look it over again.

BiG thanks



QUOTE=o2batsea;377241]I found this on the VDO site.
The terminal marked S is for your white wire from the sender. The "+" termianl is switched power. The third terminal under the threaded stud is case ground. The case ground stud can be used for a jumper wire to one of the light socket terminals; doesn't matter which one. Or you can run a separate ground wire to one of the light socket terminals.
I cannot explain it any other way and the link to the wiring diagram is all I can do.[/QUOTE]
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  #19  
Old September 28th, 2012, 10:02 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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I didn't have time to open things back up. But I did replace two 5-amp fuses.
This brought all the gauge lights back to life and the left front side marker.

As an aside I have frustrated in my attempts to get the 3 of the 4 side markers lit as well as passenger side tail light. Brake light comes on but no running light. Took a look after changing fuse and forgot that I had removed bulb. I will replace tomorrow and hopefully be down to right side markers left to light up.

I will check the connections on the oil gauge per your post. And follow up here with result.
I'm going to hook the new temp gauge to he existing sender. Seems there is various results as to whether it will work or if I need o replace with the vdo sender.

I will say I am loving being able to see my gauges at night, bright and clear. I may be replacing others.

Cheers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I found this on the VDO site.
The terminal marked S is for your white wire from the sender. The "+" terminal is switched (key on) power. The third terminal under the threaded stud is case ground. The case ground stud can be used for a jumper wire to one of the light socket terminals; doesn't matter which one. Or you can run a separate ground wire to one of the light socket terminals.
I cannot explain it any other way and the link to the wiring diagram is all I can do.
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  #20  
Old September 29th, 2012, 03:38 PM
Rover110
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Steve
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Today I discovered my taillight works. Yea!
I checked the wires on oil gauge per Bill and checked color at sensor.
I have a green at sensor and it runs to the S. on + I have white.
On the ground I have a black that also is jumped from the light. This is the way it was previously. Do you think I should use one wire for gauge ground?

As to temp, ligh is on and gauge is not registering anything. It is plugged into the existing sender. I have not had luck getting the vdo sender. Will his make a difference?

I'm getting closer. Thanks for the help.

Having trouble getting photos attached from google drive or Dropbox on iPad. Will try later.
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