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D90 rotors, pads

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90 d90 pads
2K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  BarryO 
#1 ·
I need to change my rears and may not be able to get genuine in time.

Anyone using non-genuine from the major chains? Part numbers or brands???
 
#6 ·
I did it last year Jim, Took about an hour or 2 per side depending how dirty things are. the only special things I needed were the hub nut tool I got from Rovers North and a drift to tap the bearings in with, other then that just give yourself time, as it takes some hammering to get the rotor off the hub. I used the pads and rotors from RN and they work great! In fact I got everything I needed from RN.
 
#7 ·
dba rotors are worth the effort. More stopping power.
 
#9 ·
Pretty light tapping with mallet moved the rotors off. Didn't have to pound on any bearings.
 
#12 ·
I didn't find it any more difficult than any other car. Whoever suggested a socket for the big nut is right. I had to borrow something from the semi store down the street.


JimVT said:
On this topic, i also plan on replacing my rear rotors and bearings this weekend, on a scale from 1-10, how tuff is it? Has anyone had any issues removing the bearings? Rover's North is running specials on Pads and Rotors right now.
 
#13 ·
Mike Hippert said:
Jim anyone else FYI I used brass keyways (used in motors or on pullies and stuff) From McMaster Carr to tap the bearings in with.
I just used a big brass punch (essentially a round brass bar) from Harbor Freight. As long as it's brass it won't hurt the steel. It's easiest to drift the race out when the end of the punch is completely flat; the end gets chewed up after awhile, but a few seconds on a disk sander fixes it right up.
 
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