D90 rotors, pads - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 21st, 2004, 08:59 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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D90 rotors, pads

I need to change my rears and may not be able to get genuine in time.

Anyone using non-genuine from the major chains? Part numbers or brands???
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  #2  
Old May 21st, 2004, 09:05 AM
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eek!

brembo rotors are ok. worldpac had them in stock around here. Lockhead pads are ok, had bad luck with minitex though others have found them ok.

Genuine if possible is my rule of course
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  #3  
Old May 21st, 2004, 09:33 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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OK, so Mintex is an issue now?

My choices are Mintex, PBR, MetalMaster semi-metallic, PBR ceramic. Ceramic, give me a break!
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  #4  
Old May 24th, 2004, 02:55 AM
Eric Siepmann
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Eric W. Siepmann
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The DBA rotors and pads are nice as well..

EwS
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  #5  
Old May 24th, 2004, 09:38 AM
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Jim Westhelle
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Rotor,Pads etc.

On this topic, i also plan on replacing my rear rotors and bearings this weekend, on a scale from 1-10, how tuff is it? Has anyone had any issues removing the bearings? Rover's North is running specials on Pads and Rotors right now.
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  #6  
Old May 24th, 2004, 09:52 AM
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Mike Hippert
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I did it last year Jim, Took about an hour or 2 per side depending how dirty things are. the only special things I needed were the hub nut tool I got from Rovers North and a drift to tap the bearings in with, other then that just give yourself time, as it takes some hammering to get the rotor off the hub. I used the pads and rotors from RN and they work great! In fact I got everything I needed from RN.
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #7  
Old May 24th, 2004, 01:20 PM
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dba rotors are worth the effort. More stopping power.
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  #8  
Old May 24th, 2004, 01:28 PM
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Hey Wicks, what did you use to beat out the bearings?
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #9  
Old May 25th, 2004, 01:15 AM
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Pretty light tapping with mallet moved the rotors off. Didn't have to pound on any bearings.
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  #10  
Old May 25th, 2004, 03:01 PM
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Jim anyone else FYI I used brass keyways (used in motors or on pullies and stuff) From McMaster Carr to tap the bearings in with.
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  #11  
Old April 11th, 2007, 09:03 PM
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Anyone using the PBR brake pads?
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  #12  
Old April 11th, 2007, 09:15 PM
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I didn't find it any more difficult than any other car. Whoever suggested a socket for the big nut is right. I had to borrow something from the semi store down the street.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVT
On this topic, i also plan on replacing my rear rotors and bearings this weekend, on a scale from 1-10, how tuff is it? Has anyone had any issues removing the bearings? Rover's North is running specials on Pads and Rotors right now.
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  #13  
Old April 12th, 2007, 01:19 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
Jim anyone else FYI I used brass keyways (used in motors or on pullies and stuff) From McMaster Carr to tap the bearings in with.
I just used a big brass punch (essentially a round brass bar) from Harbor Freight. As long as it's brass it won't hurt the steel. It's easiest to drift the race out when the end of the punch is completely flat; the end gets chewed up after awhile, but a few seconds on a disk sander fixes it right up.
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