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  #1  
Old May 31st, 2007, 10:39 AM
nibj
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Peter Monk
'67 Series IIa LWB SW
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D90 purchase help

I'm looking at maybe buying a 1994 NAS D90 (#300 I think - anyone know it - I think it's lived at the Delaware shore?). It's been in salt air and has suffered some corrosion - but the body/bulkhead looks good with no bubbles and apart from the rear X-member the chassis looks fine (a cursory inspection so far!). Perhaps you can help me with some answers:

1) I understand from other posts here that the fuel tank is held up by the tank guard. Is that correct on a '94? The tank guard on this vehicle is rusted out on both sides so that the guard is held on only at the rear cross member and rests on the sway bar. I presume this is a major safety hazard....

2) The AC and heater switchs/levers are all solid from corrosion. Is there good availability for this sort of stuff? How about ducting/fans for AC/heat? Are they costly? How difficult is the dash to remove/work on?

3) I presume that (like series vehicles) the main area for chassis corrosion is the rear X-member. I guess if the tank guard is bad, the rear chassis is likely to be close behind. Are repair sections readily available? Would the tub need to come off to weld one on?

Thanks for the help - should I walk or run from this one


Peter
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  #2  
Old May 31st, 2007, 11:12 AM
MonLand
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Loic Fabro
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Regarding 2), are you refering to the levers on the left on the steering wheel or the A/C control in the center section of the dashboard?
I would think you are talking about the controls on the left of the steering wheel (temperature and "up-down air" selection levers), in which case, you can remove the plastic cover and free them. They need a little bit of grease from time to time (and will appear to be stuck) but I have yet to see one corroded. If those are corroded.... run from it....
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  #3  
Old May 31st, 2007, 11:45 AM
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Peter Monk
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Both the central knobs for the AC are seized. The fan lever is almost corroded away and seemed to have no effect. The temp/vents controls are very stiff. To give an idea of the internal corrosion, the cubby box hinge is rusted solid!
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  #4  
Old May 31st, 2007, 12:00 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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Sounds like the owner really neglected it. It better be cheap and you better be ready to spend the purchase price to rebuild it.
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  #5  
Old May 31st, 2007, 01:41 PM
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Mike
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Was it left outside without a top on it? If the inside is that bad, the underside must be a mess. I agree with Kevin. Be prepaired to spend time and money fixing things...good luck!


Cheers...
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  #6  
Old May 31st, 2007, 01:54 PM
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Peter Monk
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I was told it was kept under cover (which is consistent with the good paintwork - unless its a respray which I doubt). But I think it must have been under a carport or similar with the door tops off (door tops are perfect as new) and soft top windows out (also perfect - and much better than the top) and open to the sea air. I think some of the engine electronics are new (where is the ECU and port on a 1994 D90?).

Thanks
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  #7  
Old May 31st, 2007, 02:05 PM
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evilfij
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Peter,

ECU is under the dash on the P/S kick panel.

It has had a new top if the windows come out.

Check behind the transmission cross member for rust. This is worse that the rear cross member as it is structural and is not found in series vehicles.

The tank guard is about $200 or so, but the bigger issue is the amount of corrosion elsewhere if the tank gaurd is that bad. Yes, that is what holds up the fuel tank!

Heat/cool and vent/defrost switches are a bit of a bugger to replace but are cheap and available. Never known anyone to replace ducting. Dash is harder than a series but not terrible, just fiddly.
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