D2 heater goes cold at idle - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 9th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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D2 heater goes cold at idle

Ok so I was in the D2 ('03) yesterday and noticed the heater went cold at Idle. after going through all the possible permutations of vent and temperature settings I revved up to about 1500 rpm and it started to warm up. As soon as I let off the gas it went cool again in a matter of seconds. I have an idea what it may be but wanted to check with you guys to see if its a known problem, hopefully with a known cheap solution.

Thanks,

Oscar

P.S. anyone looking for an SE7 with 80k miles in NYC? Runs great! (if you don't need heat at idle).
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  #2  
Old January 9th, 2015, 11:40 AM
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Make sure your coolant is at correct level when engine is cold?
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Old January 9th, 2015, 12:04 PM
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failed thermostat. If they are the 'fail open' variety they won't get up to temp at idle in my experience
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Old January 9th, 2015, 12:06 PM
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this is a simple issue and solution. you have air in the system and at idle, which is seriously reducing the contact surface of coolant to metal in your heater core. when at idle, the flow rate which is degraded slows down due to lower pump speed, and the heat demand of the air flow over the heater matrix exceeds the transfer rate of the degraded coolant to contact surface. this is easily replicated on my helton heat exchanger when heater water with engine off vs engine running.

I'm assuming you hear the gurgling in your system when your driving? Your fix should be to properly bleed the system, which involves pulling the expansion take out while idling at normal op temp and holding it up higher than rest of the engine so trapper air can rise up to it and get replaced by coolant.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
this is a simple issue and solution. you have air in the system and at idle, which is seriously reducing the contact surface of coolant to metal in your heater core. when at idle, the flow rate which is degraded slows down due to lower pump speed, and the heat demand of the air flow over the heater matrix exceeds the transfer rate of the degraded coolant to contact surface. this is easily replicated on my helton heat exchanger when heater water with engine off vs engine running.

I'm assuming you hear the gurgling in your system when your driving? Your fix should be to properly bleed the system, which involves pulling the expansion take out while idling at normal op temp and holding it up higher than rest of the engine so trapper air can rise up to it and get replaced by coolant.
Nah, too complicated... its the thermo
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Old January 9th, 2015, 12:21 PM
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Nah, too complicated... its the thermo
Possible, but he didn't mention anything about the engine temp being cold. If engine temp can't stay up then yep, there it is.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 12:44 PM
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Definitely low on coolant.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 07:40 PM
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You know, I had it in the shop to fix a coolant leak and haven't checked coolant level since. That makes sense. So does air in the system (I can hear the flowing of the coolant when I slowly rev the engine). Truck Temp gauge reads in the middle and gets there in a reasonable amount of time so I don't suspect the Tstat is out.

I should have checked the level but damn its cold outside and I wanted to ask just in case.

thanks, It will be like 70 in a week or two (Thanks Obama), so I'll check it then.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 07:54 PM
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If you are driving it, you should check it now. The expansion tank is probably almost empty, and you can still overheat the engine in the winter. If you feel like swinging through Williamsburg tomorrow, I'd be happy to take a look at what's leaking.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
The shop should have purged the system, but regardless, air in the system can lead to cavitation at the pump and damage it.



-Jeff
I've never seen that happen to a Land Rover, and I've seen hundred's run out of coolant. If it had an air pocket, it would have overheated. It probably has a leak.
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Old January 9th, 2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
About 10 yrs ago a friend with a RRC had pretty bad cavitation damage. Though, not as bas as the pic i found. Im not sure why, but RRC's seemd to have been less succeptable to overheating/blown head gaskets etc.

-Jeff
The bigger the piston, the less block you have. That said, it amazes me how johnny on the spot you are Briggs with Rover knowledge. WTF? How'd you get so smart?
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