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  #21  
Old April 18th, 2013, 07:07 PM
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The diff failures can be spotted in advance. Pull the filler plug and rotate the axle to the point where you can poke the spider gears. The gear eats into the housing so it is is loose, the diff is not long for the world. That IMHO is what causes the cross shaft failures.
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  #22  
Old April 18th, 2013, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
The diff failures can be spotted in advance. Pull the filler plug and rotate the axle to the point where you can poke the spider gears. The gear eats into the housing so it is is loose, the diff is not long for the world. That IMHO is what causes the cross shaft failures.
Good info. Thanks.

Does anyone know, is it just the side gears that are different? If I decide to get lockers at some point could I send a 10 spline diff in as the core to be built with something like an ashcroft or arb locker?
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  #23  
Old April 18th, 2013, 07:30 PM
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No the diffs are completely different.
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  #24  
Old April 18th, 2013, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
...but you should avoid telling people that 24 spline Disco diffs are exploding on the street like it's a regular occurrence.
Where have I said "exploding" or "regular occurrence"? If you would really like to discuss in a civil manner please quote what I've said and do not exaggerate. I've been very clear in explaining what I was saying was completely based on my own personal experience and the reasons for the points I was making.
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  #25  
Old April 18th, 2013, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
Sure. Packaging a statement along the lines of these diffs are constantly exploding on the road is not a fact. I must have missed the point in time where LR did a massive recall on all of their diffs because they were all exploding on the road... constantly... under normal expected use...
And the Straw man argument ends the discussion.
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  #26  
Old April 18th, 2013, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post

Good info. Thanks.

Does anyone know, is it just the side gears that are different? If I decide to get lockers at some point could I send a 10 spline diff in as the core to be built with something like an ashcroft or arb locker?
Yes you can. The carriers are different, but you can put a 24 spline ARB into a 10 spline diff assembly.
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  #27  
Old April 18th, 2013, 08:48 PM
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Isn't it odd that 16 years after last saw a D90 and 14 after the last Disco that there is uncertainty about these things?
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  #28  
Old April 18th, 2013, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Isn't it odd that 16 years after last saw a D90 and 14 after the last Disco that there is uncertainty about these things?
I'm a defender newb.
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  #29  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The springs would make you sit lower. Stock 90s are lifted compared to Discos.
So.... I won a set of terrafirma +2 pro-sport shocks over the weekend. They are described as for D1/RRC/Defender. Since the defender springs are already slightly lifted compared to D1, can I install these as is? Or will I run the risk of bottoming them out? Should I just wait and buy taller springs?
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  #30  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 11:56 AM
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To properly run the longer travel shocks, you need to adjust a few things like shock mounts, bump stops, spring retainers or relocators and brake lines. It is unfortunate that the shock suppliers do not supply kits or at least advice on what is required.
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  #31  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 01:12 PM
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Well these were free, so I'm not concerned too much with what the supplier advised me about

I've already got the rear springs retained at the bottom.... I guess some of these older 90's came that way. I'll look into bump stops so I don't bottom out the shocks.
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  #32  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
So.... I won a set of terrafirma +2 pro-sport shocks over the weekend. They are described as for D1/RRC/Defender. Since the defender springs are already slightly lifted compared to D1, can I install these as is? Or will I run the risk of bottoming them out? Should I just wait and buy taller springs?
The measuring tape is your friend when setting up your suspension. You need to measure the shock length at rest and how much uptravel you have left on the shock. Compare that to how much uptravel you have before your axle hits the bumpstops. You don't NEED lots of fancy shock mounts. I run stock upper mounts, home made lower adapters(to eye shocks), and have lowered bump stops.
You WILL need some combination of retainers/cones for the springs.
I run 11.25" travel Rancho 9000's and the bushings on my cranked trailing arms are just about at the bind point. To run any kind of longer shock I would need jointed rear arms.
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  #33  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
The measuring tape is your friend when setting up your suspension. You need to measure the shock length at rest and how much uptravel you have left on the shock. Compare that to how much uptravel you have before your axle hits the bumpstops. You don't NEED lots of fancy shock mounts. I run stock upper mounts, home made lower adapters(to eye shocks), and have lowered bump stops.
You WILL need some combination of retainers/cones for the springs.
I run 11.25" travel Rancho 9000's and the bushings on my cranked trailing arms are just about at the bind point. To run any kind of longer shock I would need jointed rear arms.
Thanks. I guess when I'm swapping axles, I could just leave the springs out, let it rest on the bump stops and see if the shocks fit.... then I don't have to measure anything
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  #34  
Old April 22nd, 2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
The measuring tape is your friend when setting up your suspension. You need to measure the shock length at rest and how much uptravel you have left on the shock.
You need to check in articulation though as the bumpstops are inboard. The best check is with springs removed.
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  #35  
Old April 27th, 2013, 01:56 PM
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Are these trailing arms bent, as in damaged?




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They are obviously curved, and the arms on my 90 are straight as an arrow



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But is that normal for D1 arms?
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  #36  
Old April 27th, 2013, 02:12 PM
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They are bent you do not want to use them
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  #37  
Old April 27th, 2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
They are bent you do not want to use them
Good deal. I'll use the not bent ones. Thanks!
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  #38  
Old April 27th, 2013, 06:48 PM
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Well I've got the old axle out and the new one almost ready. (Except for some damaged mud shields.)



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Also as a plus I think I've determined that I've got Land Rover HD rear springs, according to red90's website. My old springs weren't as weather worn as I thought. Still had paint codes on them.
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  #39  
Old April 27th, 2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
IMO the mud shields cause more problems than they solve. I'd pull them.

-Jeff


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My thought exactly. I figure if I miss them they are easy to replace later.
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  #40  
Old April 27th, 2013, 09:08 PM
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I'd worry about the railco bushings/ swivels if those arms are bent. I have ruined a front axle housing and not bent radius arms like that.
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