D-90 Rust Issues - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 5th, 2012, 09:17 AM
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Matt
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D-90 Rust Issues

As someone new to the D-90 scene, I've obviously heard that there can be sigificant rust issues on these vehicles. Can someone tell me where they most typically occur? I'm hearing on the hinges, but where else? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old January 5th, 2012, 09:31 AM
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Basically everywhere. Frame, floorboards, top of the bulkead/bulkhead in general (and where attached to the hinges), cappings (these run along the top of the bed), rear crossmember (right above the rear bumper), etc. Steel = rust prone. T-posts for 110s. Lots of rust prone areas.

------ Follow up post added January 5th, 2012 10:07 AM ------

Also adding battery compartment/seat box.

Apparently there was some confusion in my wording. My "basically everywhere" was me being sarcastic as rust has basically been seen eveywhere on these things, but the spots I mentioned are more-so. Yes, the body is aluminum...I was saying the steel pieces should be your main focus/concern.

Best advice would be to post up the photos (save them, and repost them here if you don't want people to see the listing you're going for) and we'll give you an honest opinion on the truck. Then, consider paying for a pre-purchase inspection.
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  #3  
Old January 5th, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Just search RUST on this forum. You will find out more then you want to know

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  #4  
Old January 5th, 2012, 11:37 AM
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In additional to the steel rusting, the aluminum corrodes too.

Fun, right?

The worst problems with the aluminum rust occur where the rear tub attaches to the rear crossmember.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
In additional to the steel rusting, the aluminum corrodes too.

Fun, right?
Yep, absolutely. Here's an example:
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  #6  
Old January 5th, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Between the transmission crossmember and the frame is probably the first and worst place on the frame, then the rear cross member. The bulkhead is the most expensive ($1400 for a new one and a ton of labor to replace).

Battery box in the seat, cappings on the body, axle housings rusting through (surface rust is very common and no big deal), underbody roll cage parts, etc.
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  #7  
Old January 5th, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Matt - I assume you are new to this so as someone who is also new... let me decipher some language:

Surface rust is okay and just what appears "on the surface." The rust to be concerned about is the holes you can poke a key or screwdriver through. These will all have some form of rust on them but you are looking for actual holes in the frame. Poke a screwdriver at any serious rust spots you see and see if it goes through.

If you can SEE rust holes in the frame... there will most likely be more rust issues hidden. They rust from the inside -> out.

There is a difference between the rear crossmember (flat piece of metal on the back not to be confused with the rear tubular step rail/bumper) and the front crossmember. There is also a front crossmember by the front axle. You have to crawl under the truck to see this. You'll also have to move the cat converters to the side to see where it attaches to the chassis frame via several bolts.

The bulkhead is the piece of metal that separates the engine from the passenger compartment.... behind the dash. You can see the engine side from the engine bay... all the way in the back. You can only see the bottom of it at the top of the foot wells.

Attached is an image of the capping.

And having just gone through this... I do NOT recommend paying a mechanic $150 to go see the truck for an hour and inspect... even if they are reputable. Pay a reputable shop $300-$400 to bring the truck in, put it on a rack and spend 3-4 hours going through it carefully. There are certain things you will only be able to see when it's on a lift.
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  #8  
Old January 5th, 2012, 02:47 PM
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Start by tapping the frame with the backside of a big screwdriver. You will hear a noticeable change in the tone if the parent material thickness has ben compromised by hidden rust from the backside.

Assuming you live in Ohio, smack daddy in the rust belt, run from trucks before you need to determine if the screw driver pokes through or not. By that point, you are too late unless you are willing to dump endless amount of time and $$ into correcting it or enjoy driving around on something that is essentially termites holding hands (better reference on house inspections, but you get the point) and will be that much harder to sell when that time comes.
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  #9  
Old January 5th, 2012, 04:59 PM
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Or budget enough to get a new galvanized frame.
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  #10  
Old January 5th, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Or buy a new jeep, that's what I would do.
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