D-90 Heater - Help - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 19th, 2008, 01:21 PM
wadaman
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Glenn Wada
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D-90 Heater - Help

Just picked up a 97 D-90. I have driven it only a few times, but I am concerned that the heater is not fully functioning. I have the levers set correctly, but the air does not get HOT, even after 20 mins of highway driving. My concern is the heater lever may not be fully engaged (sliding up and down) to access the full heat coming thru the system.

My question - Should the heater be blowing HOT, or is this just a Defender quirk?

Thanks. GW
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  #2  
Old November 19th, 2008, 01:35 PM
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Len Cater
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It should be blowing hot. But there are some easy things to try first.

Vent Controls
- set airflow to top position for windshield defrost
- set heat setting all the way to the bottom for hottest

Fan Controls
- there are 4 positions - at top is the off position. As soon as you start to slide down, it opens the air vent to allow air flow. As you move the level down, more air comes. At the bottom there are 2 stop positions, the first stop is low speed fan, and the complete bottom position is high speed. Set it to high speed.

Once up to temperature, if the fan is blowing high you should feel heat. It won't burn your hand, but should at least feel like about 100 degrees. If this is not happening then the next thing to check is if the cables on the vent controls are connected to the heater matrix and moving it. This needs to be checked under the hood.

If the vent control move the airflow at the heater matrix, then in most cases you have either a bad core or a blocked water jacket. If you truck temp guage stays in the middle, then most likely your core in the heater matrix is pooched.

If there is no air blowing fast then in most cases you have a problem with the fan controls, which means you have most likely opened the air vent, allowing cold air, but since the air flow is so slow, then the air will feel cool, maybe slightly warm. This is a common problem as the way the resistor works is a bit cludgy and over time will wear out or burn out, or seperate or............

Hope that helps.
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  #3  
Old November 19th, 2008, 08:49 PM
wadaman
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Glenn Wada
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thanks len. Will check the fan controls and the cables on the vent controls.

Right now the fan controls don't seem to have four positions, but fan speed does increase significantly at the bottom.

As for the vent controls and the heater matrix, where should I be looking under the hood?
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Old November 19th, 2008, 09:41 PM
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Len Cater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wadaman
thanks len. Will check the fan controls and the cables on the vent controls.

Right now the fan controls don't seem to have four positions, but fan speed does increase significantly at the bottom.

As for the vent controls and the heater matrix, where should I be looking under the hood?
For the van controls, the only positions really noticable are off and high speed. The ones in between are much more sutle. When on high speed, push the leave back up just until the high speed stops. Without the vehicle moving you should feel a low output flow. That is low speed. A little but more up and the fan shuts off.

As for the heater matrix, the box sits up against the firewall and you will see the cable that run to it to control the air flap. Helps to have someone inside the cab move the heat control up and down. You should see it moving the mechanism on the box.
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Old November 20th, 2008, 08:44 AM
wadaman
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Glenn Wada
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Heater

Got it. Will check the heater matrix and cable this weekend. It's getting damn cold here in PA. Thanks!
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  #6  
Old November 20th, 2008, 10:37 AM
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Len is right about the heater part of the equation. There may be another problem inside.
The lower dash tray acts as the heater vent and there are two flappers that are supposed to open for heat or close to increase defrost. This cable often either pulls out of the mechanism it attaches to or pulls through the thin sheet metal of the lower tray. If you remove the two plastic heater vent covers under the dash you can see if these vents are opening or not. A quick fix to get heat is to wedge them open if the cable actuator is wacked. I think this is covered in the "custom mods" section of this site if you want pictures.
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Old November 20th, 2008, 10:55 AM
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Len Cater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
Len is right about the heater part of the equation. There may be another problem inside.
The lower dash tray acts as the heater vent and there are two flappers that are supposed to open for heat or close to increase defrost. This cable often either pulls out of the mechanism it attaches to or pulls through the thin sheet metal of the lower tray. If you remove the two plastic heater vent covers under the dash you can see if these vents are opening or not. A quick fix to get heat is to wedge them open if the cable actuator is wacked. I think this is covered in the "custom mods" section of this site if you want pictures.
As well, for those of us where we already have snow on the ground, we remove the vent caps on the lower dash as they direct your nice warm air back towards the bulkhead. Removing them blasts it down to your feet where it is desperately needed. The only down side is if you have water egress through your front air vents or other areas of the bulkhead(windhsield) this water seems to find it's way to the vent opening and onto your feet.

but as we like to say, they drain well!
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  #8  
Old November 20th, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Glenn, I can look at it on Sat.

Ron
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